This is for other Ghostbusters Props that don't fit into the categories above.
#4893702
Hey
I recently got a micronotic 3001. Going to start a KUD build.
Does anybody know how to maintain the integrity of the electronics once removing the sense disc? I would like to have the needle jump and keep the sound... if not... static it is!
Thank you guys!
#4893768
See if you can locate Dale Love. I know him via Facebook.

He just finished a KUD, and incorporate the guts of a different piece of tech used as a GB prop, the Realistic Sound Level Meter, so that the needle on the Micronta spikes in response to audio levels.

The microphone part goes right into the cut-off shaft of the metal detector, where you have to put some sort of cap anyway.

It is genius and awesome! I just saw a vid of it on FB this morning.

If you're planning to gut a Sound Level Meter anyway to put the movie sound effects in it, as Dave An has done, might as well make use of the leftover internals, right?

Alex
#4894288
I’m working on one now. I’m still at breadboard but I want it to do more than just flash leds. What I’m trying to accomplish is multiple sounds, selected with a rotary switch, which will fluctuate the gauge and have another rotary switch for volume control. Maybe even a motion/heat/proximity sensor in front, which would act like the metal detector and make sounds and move the gauge when you approach subjects. Perhaps even ion detection…. we have these large kitchen utensils mounted if front…might as well find a use for them!! Still have a ways to go though...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YhWjHco ... e=youtu.be
#4894296
it's all done with coding through an Arduino at the moment. I'm new to this so it's like learning a new language. I get one thing to work and then another thing fails. You think you're close, then you add something new and you're back to step one again. I'll get it eventually and hope to have a prototype soon.
#4894478
Very cool video! I like the idea of different colored lights. Running a RGB led might be interesting.
What are you using for a sound module?....WT588D?
I'm curious why you needed an amp.
#4894495
the sound module I have doesn't come with a built in amplifier so I had the choice of a 2 watt or 3 watt with a gain adjustment. Also the one I chose had enough outputs for the switches that I had around in my box of parts. Plus the device that I used was a drag and drop so no files had to be programmed just re-named so it would play. It's the PAM8302 and 2341 audio effects board from adafruit. for my limited information and programming abilities this is what was best for me. I have extra rotary switches and spacers that make them work with the original knobs if your interested. Also I know you said that you were still programming and working the bugs out of your needle setup but what parts did you use that you had to program, and was some of the parts a sound activated trigger module? How did you figure out how to make the needle move was it voltage, resistance, where is this info? I only ask since mine is still in standby mode and I would like to finish mine up as well as maybe I can help dial both of ours in. I have the original wiring schematic but it leaves some things out.
Image
#4894520
Here’s the set-up I’m using right now. It works really well, but because I’m using a microphone through a micro-controller to pick up the sounds from the speaker, when I turn the volume down low I get little to no movement from the gauge.
I’m working on a solution now to eliminate the microphone.
I really like the idea of different color lighting for the gauge and would like for the color to change automatically. Like when the gauge hits 10 it’ll turn red. Maybe even coordinate the blinking red led to increase its speed as the gauge goes higher. Man, I just keep adding things!




How did you figure out how to make the needle move was it voltage, resistance
The Gauge is a mA gauge.

I have extra rotary switches and spacers that make them work with the original knobs if your interested.
I’m actually using phenolic perfboard to replace the PCB so I can attach the switches the same way they were originally.

Also how are people securing the kitchen parts to the meter and in the tube?
I haven’t got that far yet. The skimmer looks to be just cutting a slot in the tube and the skimmer could be held in place by packing some epoxy putty in there. The potato masher seems to be installed different ways. Some people cut a slot in the body and mount it internally. It does seem to be cleaner, but the original appears to be mounted outside the body with the end bent down and attached with 2 screws. Stainless is a pain to drill so that may be why people go for the former.
Last edited by Logan Cade on September 9th, 2017, 7:49 am, edited 1 time in total.
#4894528
Wow thank you so much for the info, I can't believe it's as simple as a Ma gauge. How did you figure that out? I'm loving the idea of the multicolored led changing based on the level of the meter I can't wait to see that. I can't wait to see the progress pictures of the PCB and the rest of what you have. Let me know if you need an led holder printed I have an extra one I can modify. With my limited amount of programming knowledge I have seen a code from adafruit of a board that responds to sound via led like a meter, but I'm not sure if you could add that code to the one that you wrote and have them work together. I'll post as soon as I find the link.
#4894676
What are you using for a sound module?....WT588D?
I'm curious why you needed an amp.
I noticed this is what you were using for a sound module, but what type of microphone module were you using and what type or model of arduino were you using to accomplish all of this with such a little footprint? I think the setup i have for my sound and lights works for my needs and setup but the gauge and controller still elude me on the ability to control them.
#4894689
I was using an Arduino Nano for the controller which was something I just had around the house from another project. You could probably get away with an Arduino Pro Mini which has an even smaller footprint.

The Microphone is a high sensitivity sound detection module for Arduino.

Image


I'm still working on the gauge issue. I almost got it figured out. I'm trying different sound files and trying to map the gauge with different frequencies, amplitudes, bit rates, that sort of thing. I might have to try a different sound module that will put out a higher Hz. I only have time to work on this during the weekends, so it's slow going.
#4895264
I'm getting close on a solution for your gauge issue that won't require a microphone or a microcontroller. Waiting on parts from China sucks.
#4895265
Logan Cade wrote:I'm getting close on a solution for your gauge issue that won't require a microphone or a microcontroller. Waiting on parts from China sucks.

Awesome, I know the pain can't wait to see what you come up with... on pins and needles....

    Hey and welcome

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