I had some really neat ideas to setting up how to make his crazy plans make sense after they were printed, but after tracing them for a third time, I set out to do them in AUTO CAD. why not? I was learning it at the time, probably the same as Stefan was when he made his own, and I'm really familiar with a proton pack so it seemed like a pretty good idea at the time. I have those plans, I won't be releasing them unless I'm absolutely begged because really, they're like Stefan's, you can tell they were made from someone fairly new to the program.
Life happened and I abandoned that project(another reason why I won't be releasing them). I got busy with school. FORTUNATELY I started a SOLIDWORKS class, which is a CAD program like AUTOCAD, but way cooler. In the mean time, creatively I was busy with my Rocketeer project(that's a link). I needed a helmet because my original bucket wasn't working. I had heard about this new type of prop making called Pepakura where you take a 3d model, transfer it into a Pepakura program(I'll link you, relax) and unfold it, THEN cut intricate shapes from pieces of paper, fold them intricately, glue tabs together, then resin and bondo and sand until it finally gets to your shape.
While I'm scaling and rescaling my Rocketeer helmet, which by the way for you who will be new to this whole Pepakura process I'll be walking you through, is something that is a major problem with me and the Pepakura modeling community(I can't understand why, since they're already MODELING SOMETHING why they just can't do it 1:1 scale, not to worry, my pep files and solid works file are indeed 1:1 you just click print or toss it into your CNC's programs). They do a really shitty job of scaling. sometimes it seems like modelers don't even bother with researching the actual piece they model, I found this thread by Nicholszz, who speaks in haiku
It's a thread about making a Pepakura proton pack. That just blew my mind. The gun was wrong and after looking further into the Pepakura proton pack that existed at the time, I found that it's just an awful "shrugged off" made prop, like certain "budget" packs that cost more to repair than actually make that float around here. I also noticed the modeler made pipes and tubes, which will never come out right in the end, where the person using the paper files could have just used pipes instead.
So, now I knew it was possible to MAKE a Pepakura proton pack, just not HOW. After much pestering various Pepakura modelers, I learned you needed a 3d modeling program like RHINO 3d or 3d Studio Max. Honestly, that crap is way over my head. It took downloading Rhino 3d, for me to find out that I can unfold a .stl file in Pepakura designer, and you can save a 3d model in the drafting program I was kicking ass at called SOLID WORKS.
The great thing about SOLIDWORKS is you can transfer the file to AUTOCAD, throw it into CNC's, make a cake, it might even walk your dog. I have to warn you ahead of time, the SOLIDWORKS files I have, I didn't make them to print out and build from, as they stand now they're good to input in a CNC program, which is why everyone asks for AUTOCAD files. I can transfer them to a coherent build plan set later, but I am completely swamped with other things right now, badgering me to do it will only piss me off and prolong me not doing it. HOWEVER, you can print the Pepakura proton pack files out, without changing the scale, and clicking PRINT, and they're 1:1.
With THAT in mind, I thought "I want a game pack. I've made the same pack 7 different times, I'm getting sick of it using the same plans. I want another pack, I want it accurate, I don't have any money. My girlfriend wants one too. I don't want to do a strenuous amount of work. How can I make it?"
Now we're full circle, if you were keeping up. After a month of modeling a regular proton pack in SOLIDWORKS and PEPAKURA FILES, which I will be releasing, FOR FREE, WITH OUT ISSUE AT THE END OF THIS FIRST POST. It took a lot of sleepless nights, a lot of time in between classes, a lot of pestering a lot of the right people with "Does this look right?" "What's this measurement" "Is it ok if I add in those special measurements?" To you fellas, Thank you so much.
TL ;DRHere is a picture of the 3d complete pack, and the gunbox assembly.
For the purposes of this thread, after the initial release of files, it will be a Pepakura Proton Pack Production thread.
FOR A PEPAKURA ANYTHING, YOU WILL NEED
Pepakura viewer http://www.tamasoft.co.jp/pepakura-en/d ... iewer.html
You need that to VIEW and print your .pdo pepakura files. Unlike damn near every other Pepakura file, the ones I'm giving you, you just click that print button, and it better be on cardstock.
THE CONTENTS OF THE FOLLOWING PHOTOS
The photo above illustrates what you will need before you really start to get messy with Pepakura.
Utility Knife/Work Knife/Carpet Knife/ Box Cutter
SuperGlue - Get some good stuff. Not crap.
Ball Point Pen - You will use this for perforating mountain and valley folds, some people use two different colors, i use a dead one and just prefold all of them.
Ruler - This helps with folding and perforating lines, I use a Drafting Ruler because it gives me something to grab on when holding down, other people use a metal one for folding, but the drafting one works either way. you dont want to use a soft wood ruler, it needs to be sturdy.
CARDSTOCK. Let me say that again CARD STOCK. bold CARD STOCK. 110 lb, as thick as you possibly can get. If you use copy paper, you've just wasted a bunch of paper, and a bunch of time which defeats the purpose of this build entirely. You lose! Find a "budget pack" elsewhere! Seriously. My first mistake was using copy paper on an unrelated project that ended up in the garbage, I dont want all our hard work on this project for nothing kid. It's 5 bucks at walmart, splurge.
Aluminum Air Conditioning Duct Tape - This stuff is a GODSEND. Id attempted three different times with this project before I was comfortable enough to share it, my Proton Pack parts kept caving in when I painted on the resin, then DENTARTHURDENT told me about this stuff, and 15 bucks later? I'm sleeping better at night. Worth EVERY penny. BUY IT FROM HOME DEPOT and thank me later.
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING WHEN YOU START TO RESIN
FIBERGLASS RESIN Just about any kind will do, I get this because it's 12 bucks at walmart and in the automotive department.
PAINT BRUSHES. - Not kidding, you are going to need alot. I get a bag of these chip brushes at homedepot for 10 bucks. For those of you new to the concept of Fiberglassing, you need paintbrushes to brush the resin onto the matting of your choice.
MAT - Get chop mat. I didnt get a picture of this, because its itchy and I didnt want it all over my bed. GET CHOP MAT. not fabric.
RUBBER/VINYL GLOVES - You dont want this crap on your hands. invest in a 10 dollar box at walmart, thank me later.
Bondo - 10 bucks. walmart. next to the resin. for filling you may be doing later. something good to invest in for other projects FOR SURE.
Shop towels - On the resin in the picture. 10 dollar box at harbor freight (keep in mind, I'm making this a fairly accessible project for you, I use these all the time. They're optional for this, but if you're always up to no good around tools, these are great.)
Mod Podge - I know I'll be using this to fill my mdf motherboard when I get around to it. I could probably use a thin coat of left over fiberglass resin, but where's the fun in that? its not neccessary, but it may come in handy for you.
Now, here's the ADD TL:DR short version of making a Pepakura prop.
I dont recommend you doing this fast at all, because it will look like garbage. An example of judging scope, after I finished getting the correct scale for my Rocketeer helmet, it took 2 months to get it ready to bondo. I'm 3 tries into this, with two packs the build I am sharing now, I've held my breath on every step.
This picture shows that i have all of the Pepakura files printed and sorted.
An idea how thick it will be after everything is printed. It's roughly 79 pages if my math is right, but dont let that discourage you, you were supposed to buy a REAM OF CARDSTOCK FOR 5 DOLLARS AT WALMART. Use what's left when you're absolutely finished with this project for printing resumes, assuming you're unemployed like I am.
This picture illustrates all the pieces are cut and folded out for the PPDBOX1 file. Now, mind (pay attention) to every tab and every fold. It's detrimental to getting your piece to work correctly.
This illustrates the Aluminum Air Conditioning Duct tape on the inside of the pieces for the PPDBOX1 file. Now, the easiest way to go about this, since you're already trailblazing through this like I told you not to, is prefold everything and apply the tape flat. Then REFOLD everything again. make sure NOT to cover your tabs, but leave them open. that way they bend easier to conform to the shape they're required to do.
These show it put together, waiting to be resined on the outside.
This is what the IONARM and the PPDBOX2 look like after they have had all of the above steps done, and a layer of Resin on the outside. When you do this, you want a nice thin layer of resin on the outside, and then on the inside you want Resin, Mat, Resin, Mat, Resin. If you don't think that's enough, which you're right, do another couple more layers.
Also, looking at my files, you'll notice I didnt have pipes and tubes and round shaped objects you can fashion out of piping modeled. Google the outer diameters from Stefan's plans with the exception of the PPDBOX which is 2.75 for the pipes for you to purchase, and they will fit where they belong. Seriously, an afternoon with a hack saw or a pipe cutter and you're set.
"PEPAKURA PROTON PACK FILES"
DONT FORGET, to read the Pepakura files, you need to download from here http://www.tamasoft.co.jp/pepakura-en/d ... iewer.html