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By bishopdonmiguel
Supporting Member
#4789905
Sharing my build of a leg hose connector and magnetic attachment system. The hose is easily connected without unwanted random disconnections while “tangling” of the hose results in a safe release, preventing a trip or damaging the uniform or connector. This is MagSafe for Ghostbusters.

A few disclaimers before I start. First, I take no credit for the idea of utilizing pvc fittings… a brilliant idea and I bow in humility to the individual responsible for it. Second, this isn't screen accurate but the parts are cheap, it’s fun to build and it gets the job done when it’s time to suit up. Lastly, if I needed only a single connector, I would have bought the one Crix offers for sale. If it’s anything like his resin “I can’t believe it’s not metal” pack parts, I know it would be excellent. But using the parts here, I can build the 3 that I need for the price of purchasing just 1. Besides, the effort to assemble is at least five-eights of the fun.

To make one system, purchase the following grey pvc components from your local hardware store’s electrical department...
  • (1) 1x3/4-inch reducer bushing
    (2) 3/4x1/2-inch reducer bushing
    (1) 1/2-inch offset conduit (provides enough for 4)
    (1) 1/4-inch barrel shaped neodymium magnet
    (1) >3/4-inch disc shaped neodymium magnet
    (1) 3/8 nylon hose barb (or buy a t-connector, same price but makes 3)
I will assume you already have the following at your disposal...
  • eye protection
    hacksaw or other efficient pipe cutting tool
    rough grit sand paper (or wheel grinder)
    fine grit sandpaper
    gap-filling superglue (cyanoacrylate gel)
    aluminum foil
    paper towel
    razor tool
    drill with 1/8-inch & 1/4-inch bits
    pliers
    paint (unless you want grey)
    matte lacquer
Lay out the parts on a clean work area. I’m showing enough here for 2 connectors (ignore the 2 tan pvc couplers in the photo, I didn’t end up needing those).

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Last edited by bishopdonmiguel on September 18th, 2018, 6:05 am, edited 1 time in total.
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By bishopdonmiguel
Supporting Member
#4789906
“Base." Cut off (or grind down) the four ears from the flange at the bottom of the large reducer bushing… unless you like that sort of thing then by all means leave them on. Next, cut off the top of the fitting to eliminate the section with the reducer. How much you cut off is up to your inner artist’s eye. I think I removed 1/2-inch. Make sure the cut is straight & perpendicular. If not, sand (or grind) it down until it is nice & flat. Chamfer the top outer edge with rough-grit sandpaper (or grinder). When you are happy with the result, give the whole piece a thorough sanding with fine grit sandpaper and remove any evidence of your cuts and grinds. Set the “base" aside.

“Flange” and “Plug.” The two small reducer bushings will serve as the “flange” and the “plug” for the “tube” in the next step. To make the “flange,” cut off 1/4-inch or so from the end with the reducer and discard the remainder. It is important that you leave enough inner section to allow for connection to the “tube.” Ensure the cut is straight & perpendicular and flatten it out as necessary. Chamfer both outer edges with rough-grit sandpaper (or grinder) then sand using fine-grit paper to create smooth rounded edges. Ensure the inner section of the "flange" is clean and free of debris. Give the remaining small reducer (the “plug”) a light sanding. Set the "flange" and “plug" aside.

“Tube." Cut a piece from the straight section of the offset pipe, roughly 1” long. This will serve as the tubeway for the leg hose. Use your inner artist to determine the final length. The "flange" and “plug" from the prior step will connect to this “tube," one on each end. Keep in mind, the depth of the ”plug” will be reduced by the height of the disc magnet so adjust the “tube” length to account for that. Too short and the “plug” will not properly support the disc magnet and too long and the space between the “plug" and "flange" will look odd. When you are satisfied with the length, ensure each end is flat and thoroughly sand with fine-grit paper. Set the “tube” aside.

At this point, your parts are ready to assemble. The photo shows the parts labeled before (top) and after (bottom) modification.

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Last edited by bishopdonmiguel on September 18th, 2018, 6:06 am, edited 1 time in total.
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By bishopdonmiguel
Supporting Member
#4789907
Another disclaimer. A little superglue goes a long way and the gap-filling gel version is easier to work with. Always use a protective layer (i.e. aluminum foil) underneath the parts being glued so adhesive does not run onto the work surface. I also recommend you work with nitrile gloves if you have any fear of gluing your fingers together. If you do have a superglue accident, make sure you have some acetone handy.

Ensure the "flange" and “tube” fit together. If not, lightly sand the outer edge of the “tube” until the "flange" seats properly. This will be the opening where the leg hose is inserted. You may choose to round out the inner edge of the “tube” at this end to eliminate the rough protruding edge which may inhibit the leg hose during insertion. Do this with a sharp blade, removing small amounts of material around the ring at a 45-degree angle and finish up with some fine grit sandpaper. Once the fit is confirmed, wipe the parts with a paper towel (or lint free cloth) placing a small amount of superglue into the “flange” connection point and setting on a piece of aluminum foil. Insert the “tube” into the connection point of the “flange,” pressing down firmly until fully seated. Pick up the piece and inspect for glue drips, wiping any off quickly with a paper towel. Set aside and let dry.

The disc magnet will be attached to the other end of the “tube," serving as the attachment point for the leg hose. The pole orientation of the magnet isn’t important unless you are making more than one leg connector and you want them aligned the same way so the hoses can be used interchangeably. If orientation is important, make a small mark on the back of each magnet noting the aligned pole and attach them in the same manner. Place the "flange" and “tube” assembly from the prior step on a flat surface with the "flange" side down on a piece of aluminum foil. Apply superglue to the “tube” end and carefully place the disc magnet into the superglue (with the marked side up if appropriate), centering to the best of your ability. Set aside.

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The “plug” will both serve to reinforce the disc magnet and also act as the attachment to the “base." Place a small ring of superglue on the inside of the “plug,” near the bottom and set on a small piece of aluminum foil. Do not apply the glue to the “tube” because it may set before being fully inserted into the “plug.” Take the “tube” from the prior step and insert into the “plug,” pressing down firmly until fully seated. Set the “tube assembly” aside and let dry.

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Last edited by bishopdonmiguel on September 18th, 2018, 6:06 am, edited 1 time in total.
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By bishopdonmiguel
Supporting Member
#4789909
The “tube assembly” will sit within the “base” from the first step. Test fit the plug end of the “tube assembly" inside the “base” making note of the desired depth for an eye-pleasing leg connector. Using the same technique employed for the “plug,” place a ring of superglue around the inside of the “base” slightly above the depth point noted during the test fit so the “plug” will hit the glue before reaching the desired depth. Slide the “plug” into place, making any adjustments quickly (you will have only a few seconds before it sets). Consider applying a seam of superglue to the back side of the “leg connector” where the “base” and “plug” intersect as insurance for a strong bond. You may do the same around the back of the disc magnet if you wish. Set the "leg connector” aside and let dry.

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Last edited by bishopdonmiguel on September 18th, 2018, 6:07 am, edited 1 time in total.
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By bishopdonmiguel
Supporting Member
#4789910
The leg hose connection consists of a small section of nylon barb and a barrel magnet. Drill out the center of the barb with a 1/4-inch bit using pliers to hold the nylon barb securely. Test the fit by partially inserting the magnet into the barb and remove (only drill as necessary until the magnet can be inserted with some effort, it should not slide in easily). Select a point on the nylon leaving 3-4 barbs and cut off using a sharp razor. Take care not to cut yourself or damage the work surface. The nylon is very tough but should cut with firm pressure and a rocking motion. Clean up the cut end with fine grit sandpaper until the end is flat & smooth.

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The barrel magnet will fit inside the larger cut end of the nylon barb with the smaller uncut narrow end fitting inside the leg hose. Before inserting the barrel magnet, align the pole so that the barrel magnet repels the side of disc magnet located at the bottom of the “leg hose connector” (from the outside). This will ensure the magnet is attracted to the side of the disc located within the “leg hose connector” tube. Noting the appropriate pole orientation, place the barrel magnet upright on a piece of aluminum foil. Apply a small amount of superglue to the inside of the large end of the nylon barb and slide over the barrel magnet, pressing down firmly until the end of the magnet sits flush with the nylon barb. Use nitrile gloves or other protective material to ensure the glue does not splash on your fingers or the work space while the barrel magnet plunges into place. Set aside and let dry.

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Last edited by bishopdonmiguel on September 18th, 2018, 6:07 am, edited 2 times in total.
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By bishopdonmiguel
Supporting Member
#4789911
If you don’t already have a leg hose, I highly recommend the yellow one AJ sells here. I tried several times to dye my own store bought hoses and failed miserably. The hose AJ sells not only looks great but it is not stiff, falling nicely without pulling on the leg connection. To attach the nylon barb to the leg hose, cut one end of the hose so that it is straight & perpendicular. Push the small end of the nylon barb into the leg hose until the ends are flush.

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Test the connection and enjoy the pleasing auditory “CLICK!” as the hose attaches itself to the inside of the leg connector.

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Last edited by bishopdonmiguel on September 18th, 2018, 6:08 am, edited 1 time in total.
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By bishopdonmiguel
Supporting Member
#4789912
Time to drill the 1/8-inch mounting holes into the “base” flange. I did this after assembly only because I found the leg connector is easier to hold once assembled but you can drill these at any point. Mark 6 holes spaced 60 degrees apart. I didn’t have a protractor so I eyeballed the holes using the square grids on my work surface.

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I drilled the holes at a 45-degree angle towards the center to retain as much base flange material as possible since it is relatively narrow. However, the pvc is very strong and drilling straight through is probably fine. Give the leg connector a final sanding with fine grit paper and rub with a paper towel (or lint free cloth) to remove any dust.

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Paint the leg connector using paints suitable for plastic. I wasn’t pleased with a basic tan. It was a tad boring and plastic-looking so I applied some glaze to dirty things up. Finish things off with a top coat of clear matte for protection.

That’s it. The construction time is roughly 1-hour for an old guy like me. Maybe some of you could whip these out faster.

I hope you found this tutorial interesting. Let me know if you use this information to build your connector!

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Last edited by bishopdonmiguel on September 18th, 2018, 6:08 am, edited 1 time in total.
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By PssdffJay
#4789913
That's brilliant! I never even thought of that. I thought at first it was going to be about a magnet that held the connector onto the leg of the flight suit and then you could swap out the brown for grey for example instead of sewing it.

Nice job you did!
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By bishopdonmiguel
Supporting Member
#4789923
swap out the brown for grey for example instead of sewing it.
Thanks Jay.

You know, I hadn't thought of incorporating a method to easily detach from the uniform but that's a very interesting idea. I don't change connector colors but I certainly don't like the idea of removing then resewing the connector for a good uniform washing. I wouldn't trust a magnet but what might work nicely is adding a small section of threaded fitting inside the back of the base. This would screw onto a small section of a threaded male fitting securely sewn to the uniform. Once attached, the part on the uniform would be completely hidden by the leg connector. Great idea to improve the next version! Thanks!
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By Dan AKA
#4789936
One of the guys here actually uses a magnenet he found that matches the outter diameter of the leg hose connector perfectly. Its a brilliant little mod, and it looks like it was sewn on. This tutorial is wonderful! Great job.
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By bishopdonmiguel
Supporting Member
#4790244
Wow, this is such a good idea. I do believe sir I will have to borrow this idea. I will give you full credit.
Glad to hear you may find it useful. Please share your implementation when you're finished. Would like to see it. Thanks.
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By bishopdonmiguel
Supporting Member
#4790293
I shall bishop. Question though... where did you find the barrel magnets?
Home Depot had both sizes in the fastener isle. I posted a picture of the packaging in the build but you can find these cheaper in many places from various suppliers, Home Depot was convenient because that is where I purchased the PVC connectors. Amazon has a good selection, these are longer but should work.
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By bishopdonmiguel
Supporting Member
#4794763
Think I'm going to try adapting this to work with Crix's Leg Hose Connector.
Would like to see photos of your conversion, if possible. I originally considered using Crix's great looking connector but wasn't sure if I could easily remove the "pin" without tearing the base apart. Also was unsure if the base would be solid & flat enough to hold a magnet glued in place.
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By GohstTarp
Supporting Member
#4794798
Would like to see photos of your conversion, if possible. I originally considered using Crix's great looking connector but wasn't sure if I could easily remove the "pin" without tearing the base apart. Also was unsure if the base would be solid & flat enough to hold a magnet glued in place.
Sure, I can add photos of my process here.

My plan is to cut off the pin/stem as close to the top of the connector as possible, and then carefully drill out the rest with a 5/8" forstner bit to deepen the hole with a flat bottom. Then super glue in a 1/2" disk magnet and do everything on the hose end just like you show. Hopefully, the glue will be enough to hold the disk magnet in there... maybe a thin layer of super glue gel over the disk would be a good idea?

I was able to get the 3/8 nylon hose barb t-connector at Home Depot, but I will have to get the barrel magnets you linked to on Amazon as well as these disks...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KV38ES

Now, to order those magnets...
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By bishopdonmiguel
Supporting Member
#4794833
Hopefully, the glue will be enough to hold the disk magnet in there... maybe a thin layer of super glue gel over the disk would be a good idea?
Superglue will certainly stick to the magnet. Unsure about the leg connector material. Crix's thread says "semi-rigid plastic" so I believe it will work but suggest you test with the removed "pin/stem" before committing.
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By MadKidJedi
#4795079
This is a smart, clean design. Thank you for sharing.

Think I'm going to try adapting this to work with Crix's Leg Hose Connector.
Hmmmm... me too. In fact, I used these same Super Magnets to add spiders to my Indiana Jones costume years ago... Didn't dawn on me to use the method here... but I'm gonna!!
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By GohstTarp
Supporting Member
#4795103
MagSafe Leg Hose Connector (Crix/GBFans Shop Variation)

The magnets arrived today and my Internets went down, so it was the perfect time to get started.

The first thing I needed to do was remove that pin/stem...
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A hack saw later...
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Now it was time to test the super glue gel against the pin/stem. I was happy to find that there were no issues, so I moved on.

Next, I used a 1/2" forstner bit to SLOWLY grind down the pin/stem all the way down to where it attaches to the connector. After that, I switched to a 5/8" forstner bit and made the hose connector hole about 1/2" deeper. Finally, I created a 1/8" deep counter-sink for the magnet disk to fit in, again using the 1/2" forstner bit. Here is the result...

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After that, I placed a little super glue in the counter-sink and pushed the magnet in with a wooden dowel. It turned out pretty nice...
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Then I followed bishopdonmiguel's instructions above to insert the barrel magnet into the leg hose. Here is what I ended up with...
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And of course, the final result...
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... a beautiful and clean MagSafe Leg Hose Connector. I just can't get enough of that awesome "CLICK!"

Thank you, bishopdonmiguel for sharing this idea with the community. I hope this helps those that want to try converting their Crix/GBFans shop Leg Hose Connector!
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By bishopdonmiguel
Supporting Member
#4795113
And of course, the final result...
This is awesome! I was hoping this would work with Crix's connector so thank you for making the effort. It is great to see the proof. Someday I will need to upgrade my homemade versions to the real deal!
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By PssdffJay
#4795123
How strong is it holding? I know that a tough question to answer but does it stay attached when you're moving around, jumping up and down, if you walk by someone too close does it fall off etc?
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By PssdffJay
#4795169
Sounds great! We had some hose problems when it was a little colder out and we had to zip tie the hose onto the pin to stop it from falling off.
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By bishopdonmiguel
Supporting Member
#4795184
How strong is it holding? I know that a tough question to answer but does it stay attached when you're moving around, jumping up and down, if you walk by someone too close does it fall off etc?
I spent the day at Planet Comicon here in KC and it never disconnected. What I like about this design is it WOULD disconnect if I got snagged up on anything. The deeper you make the connection into the connector, the better it will hold because the sheer angle will be reduced.
User avatar
By MadKidJedi
#4795222
This is a smart, clean design. Thank you for sharing.

Think I'm going to try adapting this to work with Crix's Leg Hose Connector.
Hmmmm... me too. In fact, I used these same Super Magnets to add spiders to my Indiana Jones costume years ago... Didn't dawn on me to use the method here... but I'm gonna!!
One of the guys here actually uses a magnenet he found that matches the outter diameter of the leg hose connector perfectly. Its a brilliant little mod, and it looks like it was sewn on. This tutorial is wonderful! Great job.
Yeah... this was actually what I was thinking for my mod, more than just the "hose-to-connector", I was thinking more of a "hose-to-uniform" method, to save sewing and such. Hell... no reason that both couldn't be achieved, so log as the polarity is going the same direction. I'll see what I can come up with, and post any results here.
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By bishopdonmiguel
Supporting Member
#4797473
Finally got the MagSafe connector attached to my uniform. My needlework could use dome improvement!

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Last edited by bishopdonmiguel on September 18th, 2018, 6:09 am, edited 1 time in total.

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