By FrankNBuster
#4812706
Do you hear strange noises in your basement?
Like sawing, filing, scratching, hammering, drilling?
Who you gonna call?
FrankNBuster!

I am in the workshop (basement) again, and starting to build a pedal and trap. Ordered lots of stuff already and was overly happy to find the Hammond boxes here in Germany for decent prices. (for the German colleagues: black plastik Box at www.reichelt.de, order Nr. "1591LBK", Metal Box 1590ABK at www.conrad.de, order Nr. 541621 in alu or 536552 black)

But not everything was available. I was desperately looking for the grey 26pin connector, but to no avail. What to do? Igor, get me the bonesaw, please. I took a 64 pin connector I salvaged from an old circuit board, cut a pice out, filed the edges, aaand: here we are. Fitting 26 pin connector. ;-)

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If you wonder: the relay is from ebay (just keep looking for "Relay 11pin" they turn up once in a while, as is the red Arcolectric light (was a 230 Volts type, I replaced the bulb with an 3mm LED; will get a "blinking" circuit). The relay socket is also from www.reichelt.de, order nr. "FIN 90.13" (only 1,15€).
By FrankNBuster
#4812828
can anybody help me? seems that I just don't see it, but... what is the size of the hose between pedal and trap? the connectors are 5mm wide, thats what I know, but what size does the hose (inner tube) have and what size has the black houseing around the hose? 1/2" ?
By FrankNBuster
#4813870
I added a little circuit board to the plastic box. It consists of only a few simple parts and gives nice 1Hz flashes.

You need:
4 pieces 1/4W 10 kOhm resistor
2 pieces 1/4W 1 MOhm resistor
1 pieces 1/4W 10 MOhm resistor
2 pieces BC547B transistor
1 piece BC557B transistor
1 piece 100uF electrolytic capacitor (has a + and a - side)
1 piece 100nF capacitor
1 piece LED - the brighter, the better
1 piece AA battery holder and an AA battery of course
10cm wire
1 piece of board, the style with each 3 holes connected ("Dot matrix/strip grid board")

soldering equipment

the circuit is called "the eternal blinker/flasher", i found it here http://www.b-kainka.de/bastel59.htm

this is how I did it:
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alphabeta001, barison82 liked this
By FrankNBuster
#4818834
parts ready for spray painting them black
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my selfmade vector frame-loc rail plate
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and the hose (4mm black pneumatic tube inside, outside is loom tubing (I used "unsplit"), cover at the ends is red shrinking tube and a black zip tie)
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By FrankNBuster
#4818840
some questions:

1. what to use best as the bellow? automotive part? a spring loaded hose?

2. where and how are the red and yellow tube fastened under the pedal-plate?

3. does the pedal have "feet" of sorts to keep it from sliding around?

4. did anyone tried yet to operate the trap doors pneumatically? e.g. use the bellow as real, transmit the pressure through the hose to the trap and use the pressure there to open the doors?
By FrankNBuster
#4819300
cant finish the thing though, because 2 parts are missing:
-bellow (on the way, bought at ebay. NOS motorcycle part, very cheap. intended to cover the telescopic antishock damper-thing at the front wheel)
-card edge connector. Out of stock at my supplier at the moment (until 24.11.2014)
By FrankNBuster
#4819301
The banjo elbows. Not in production anymore. What to do? Scratchbuild them!

how I did it:
took a brass rod 12x12x250 mm (12mm is circa 1/2 inch), cut into 26mm pieces (an inch = 25,4mm), make 9 pieces/elbows
drilled a 6,5mm hole through (so a 6mm bolt fits through)
drilled a 4mm hole from the square side, halfway through (tube goes in here)
drilled a 3,5mm hole perpendicular to the 4mm hole (for the fastening screw)
cut a 4mm screw thread into the 3,5mm hole
filed the corners a bit round
inserted the tube, fixed it with a grub screw (headless screw)
took a 6mm bolt, filed down the head so it got flatter, then sawed a cut into it

picture? here you go:
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alphabeta001 liked this
By FrankNBuster
#4820466
Pedal finished :-) !

(click on the pictures to magnify)
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The bellow is fixed on the lower side with a washer and a wood-screw (bellow had a narrow end, this is the lower side). Cut it with x-acto knife to fit and then cut 2 disks 38 and 45 mm diameter from 4mm plastic board. Glued the smaller to the underside of the pedal, the bigger one on underside of the smaller one. Now the last rib of the bellow can be pulled over the rim and fits into the gap - and stays there.

The card edge connector is fixed to the Sub-D-cover with two small wood screws. I just put them where the fixing screws of the connector normally go and then sunk them into the card edge connector. Very sturdy. Pedal can be carried at the flat cable without problems.

Now I am happy - another part finished! (in only 7 1/2 weeks, counted from the first post here)

Next part will be the trap. Stay tuned.
alphabeta001 liked this
By FrankNBuster
#4838311
announcing it here to put some pressure on myself: I will start working on the trap! Yes I will! Yeah, like. Yes.

Already bought
* some Forex© PVC board in 5mm and 8mm and special glue for that
* primer and black matt and black shiny paint
* a switch with a flat handle, a little red light. 4 skateboard wheelbearings.
* the pressure connector
Made plans with metric sizes (from the inch plans) - just cant get the hang on these 15/16 etc inch measurements.

Does anyone know of any one else who uses an Arduino to operate the servos and the barlights? Would be possible I think. Barlights, servos for doors, a little vibrating motor (like in a mobile phone) to rattle and shake the thing when a ghost is caught, red blinking light, maybe bleeping or hissing sounds. Not too much for an Arduino I guess.
By FrankNBuster
#4838646
part cut out for the shell (8mm Forex©)
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and for the trap cartridge (5mm Forex©)
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part for the front bar box still to do, as well as the rims under the doorflaps.

And, yes, measure twice, before you cut. I had "measure twice, cut & curse thrice" two times during the cutting. I used a table circular saw, Proxxon Brand.
By FrankNBuster
#4839387
progress and more pictures

the forward power indicator and the corner blocks (screws already glued in)
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handcrafted vector plates (made from 5mm PVC)
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the handle and the aluminium bars (also both made from massive PVC)
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"spacer ridge" for the top of the trap body
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and the battery compartment (5mm Forex ©, I made cuts into the material and then used a hot air blower to soften it and bend it. Works good, gives rounded edges, though)
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Now I really would like to start glueing it together, but I lack the electronics. The switch is ordered, I have difficulties to get the little red lamp. Bar indicator and belonging electronics are missing completely.

Next step will be cutting the aluminium plates. And ordering electronic parts.
alphabeta001 liked this
By FrankNBuster
#4839388
some word about the materials:
FOREX © is also PVC but with bubbles inside, kind of foamed PVC. Much lighter than massive PVC, but therefore not as sturdy.
Different brand names: Vikupor, Simocell, Kömatex, Vekaplan

PVC is plastic as we all know it from household applications, car interiors etc. Pay attention to use the right kind of glue. The stuff you glue plastic model kits together does NOT work (plastic model kits are made out of polystyrene, while PVC is polyvinylchloride and needs another type of glue).
The glue I used is called "Cosmofen" and is professional grade stuff (stinks horribly and is not healthy at all).
it is not glueing by the way (putting together thing with "sticky" stuff, it is "welding", connecting thing by dissolving them temporarily and when the solvent is gone the parts are connected. (Sorry for my english)
By FrankNBuster
#4842003
next step: electronics.
got the bargraph and extra LED working! :-)
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next steps: add servos, buzzer, red LED, vibrating motor to test jig. then finally solder it together and fix it inside the trap (which is to be assembled)
By FrankNBuster
#4842838
besides the flashing lights, everything works as planned.
After some trial and error.

:-)
Code: Select all
//**************************************************************//
//  Name    : Ghost Trap Electronics with ARDUINO nano          //
//  Author  : FrankNBuster                                      //
//  Date    : 03 Sep, 2015                                      //
//  Version : 1.0                                               //
//  Notes   : Code for using two 74HC595 Shift Registers        //
//          : to make a 12 piece bargraph and an extra LED      //
//          : operates 2 servos for doors,                      //
//          : a motor for vibrations                            //
//          : a buzzer and and extra red LED                    //
//****************************************************************

#include <Servo.h> 

Servo rightservo;  // create servo object to control right door servo
Servo leftservo;  // create servo object to control left door servo 

int latchPin = 8;   //Pin connected to ST_CP of 74HC595
int clockPin = 12;  //Pin connected to SH_CP of 74HC595
int dataPin = 11;   //Pin connected to DS of 74HC595
int beeperPin = 7;  //Pin Connected to Beeper
int red_led = 2;    //Pin connected to red LED
int motor = 4;      //Pin connected to motor

int  left_val, right_val; // Servo control bytes

//holders for information you're going to pass to shifting function
byte dataLOW;
byte dataHIG;
byte dataArrayLOW[15];
byte dataArrayHIG[15];

void setup() {
  //set pins to output because they are addressed in the main loop
  pinMode(beeperPin, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(red_led, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(motor, OUTPUT);

  leftservo.attach(5);  // attaches the servo on pin 5 to the servo object 
  rightservo.attach(6);  // attaches the servo on pin 6 to the servo object 
  
  pinMode(latchPin, OUTPUT);
  Serial.begin(9600);

  //lower half
  dataArrayLOW[0] = 0x00; 
  dataArrayLOW[1] = 0x01; 
  dataArrayLOW[2] = 0x03; 
  dataArrayLOW[3] = 0x07; 
  dataArrayLOW[4] = 0x0F; 
  dataArrayLOW[5] = 0x1F; 
  dataArrayLOW[6] = 0x3F; 
  dataArrayLOW[7] = 0x7F; 
  dataArrayLOW[8] = 0xFF;
  dataArrayLOW[9] = 0xFF;
  dataArrayLOW[10] = 0xFF;
  dataArrayLOW[11] = 0xFF;
  dataArrayLOW[12] = 0xFF;
  dataArrayLOW[13] = 0xFF;
  dataArrayLOW[14] = 0xFF;

  //upper half 
  dataArrayHIG[0] = 0x00; 
  dataArrayHIG[1] = 0x00; 
  dataArrayHIG[2] = 0x00; 
  dataArrayHIG[3] = 0x00; 
  dataArrayHIG[4] = 0x00; 
  dataArrayHIG[5] = 0x00; 
  dataArrayHIG[6] = 0x00;  
  dataArrayHIG[7] = 0x00; 
  dataArrayHIG[8] = 0x00;
  dataArrayHIG[9] = 0x01;
  dataArrayHIG[10] = 0x03;
  dataArrayHIG[11] = 0x07;
  dataArrayHIG[12] = 0x0F;
  dataArrayHIG[13] = 0x1F;
  dataArrayHIG[14] = 0x3F;
}

void loop() {
  int count;

  //clear bargraph and status LED
  clear_bargraph();

  //set servos to default (close), value has to be determined when servo is built in
  rightservo.write(0);
  leftservo.write(0);

  // wait 5 seconds
  delay(1000);

  // beep 2 times
  beep(75);
  delay(150);
  beep(60);

  // wait 5 seconds
  delay(1000);

  // open doors
  rightservo.write(180); // value has to be determined when servo is built in
  leftservo.write(180); // value has to be determined when servo is built in

  // flash lights (3 green, 2x3 white, 3 blue) randomly for 10 seconds
  //
  // to be done
  //
  delay(1000);

  // close door
  rightservo.write(0); // value has to be determined when servo is built in
  leftservo.write(0); // value has to be determined when servo is built in

  // wait 3 seconds
  delay(1000);


  //fill bargraph and status light
  for (int j = 0; j < 14; j++) {
    //load the light sequence you want from array
    dataLOW = dataArrayLOW[j];
    dataHIG = dataArrayHIG[j];
    //ground latchPin and hold low for as long as you are transmitting
    digitalWrite(latchPin, 0);
    //move 'em out
    shiftOut(dataPin, clockPin, dataHIG);   
    shiftOut(dataPin, clockPin, dataLOW);
    //return the latch pin high to signal chip that it 
    //no longer needs to listen for information
    digitalWrite(latchPin, 1);
    delay(75);
  }
  delay(425); //wait a tad bit longer before the yellow status LED lights up
  dataLOW = dataArrayLOW[14];
  dataHIG = dataArrayHIG[14];
  digitalWrite(latchPin, 0);
  shiftOut(dataPin, clockPin, dataHIG);   
  shiftOut(dataPin, clockPin, dataLOW);
  digitalWrite(latchPin, 1);
  
  // wait 2 seconds, then
  delay(2000);
   
  // "ghost in trap": 30 times blink red LED and beep, randomly operate motor
  for (count=0; count<30; count++) {
  digitalWrite(red_led,1);
  beep(300);
  delay(700);
  digitalWrite(red_led,0);
  delay(1000);
  
  // randomly start the motor for a short moment to simulate the ghost banging around in the trap  
  if (random(10)>4) 
    {digitalWrite(motor, 1);
    delay(random(0)*100);
    digitalWrite(motor,0);
    }
  }
  clear_bargraph();
  
  while(1==1) {
  // stop here
  }

}



// the heart of the program
void shiftOut(int myDataPin, int myClockPin, byte myDataOut) {
  // This shifts 8 bits out MSB first, on the rising edge of the clock, clock idles low

  //internal function setup
  int i=0;
  int pinState;
  pinMode(myClockPin, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(myDataPin, OUTPUT);

  //clear everything out just in case to, prepare shift register for bit shifting
  digitalWrite(myDataPin, 0);
  digitalWrite(myClockPin, 0);

  for (i=7; i>=0; i--)  {
    digitalWrite(myClockPin, 0);

    if ( myDataOut & (1<<i) ) {
      pinState= 1;
    }
    else {	
      pinState= 0;
    }

    //Sets the pin to HIGH or LOW depending on pinState
    digitalWrite(myDataPin, pinState);
    //register shifts bits on upstroke of clock pin  
    digitalWrite(myClockPin, 1);
    //zero the data pin after shift to prevent bleed through
    digitalWrite(myDataPin, 0);
  }

  //stop shifting
  digitalWrite(myClockPin, 0);
}

void beep(int time) {
// beep 2 times
    digitalWrite(beeperPin, 1);
    delay(time);
    digitalWrite(beeperPin, 0);
}

void clear_bargraph() {
  digitalWrite(latchPin, 0);
  shiftOut(dataPin, clockPin, 0); 
  shiftOut(dataPin, clockPin, 0); 
  digitalWrite(latchPin, 1);
}
alphabeta001, propcicle liked this
By FrankNBuster
#4847793
the bargraph, now mounted on a circuit board and fitted with cable.
its 13 rectangular LEDs and a 5mm round one and two 8*resistor-net
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mounted in trap body (now glued together, doors mounted)
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trap handle primed, trap insert mounted
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alphabeta001 liked this
By FrankNBuster
#4847824
@propcicle: I will for sure publish everything and share it with the community. Only a matter of available time. But i promise. Sharing is caring :-)
By FrankNBuster
#4865482
hey! I am still alive. Current work is painting the trap. Another 2 layers primer are done, and at this moment the 3rd layer of black is drying. Pictures to follow.

Sorry for the delay. Too much to do at work combined with private thing with a higher priority and a vacation (yay: was in Hawai'i and in Chicago! But saw no Ghosts).
And I lost 12kg weight. The uniform now fits WAY better.
By FrankNBuster
#4865922
next steps. Lookout, it's a trap!
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Knobs. I bought a bag full of old stereo knobs and buttons for 1,50€ ($1.50). With a little sawing and filing they fitted. Glued some white PVC sheet on it, cut to size, corners taken off with a holepunch. Same for the round bits on the round knobs = holepunch and PVC sheet. And superglue.
On the picture you see the original knobs and the final results.
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