By TheLegendOfMart
#4879625
I've nearly finished modeling the top boxes, I'm just waiting for someone to confirm the height/width of the two displays before I can upload them on Thingiverse.

Image

I started modeling the grip/ball valve mount but I'm not sure if it would be strong enough, the bottom lip might just snap off.

Image
teddy755, Kingpin, MightyAni and 1 others liked this
By deejeerie
#4880736
I don't think anyone has sourced the frame that holds the beam tuning coils (?). Do you have any thoughts/suggestions on where to find that? I have been searching speaker baskets, full size and golf cart vehicle wheels, hubcaps and so much more.

I'm coming close, but nothing is quite right yet.

Hvd wrote:I totally love this thread, so many amazing builds!

Just wanted to say, as the person who designed the motherboard that seems to be such a pain in the ass, that the hole pattern designed was laid out in such a way that it would accomodate changes made to the parts and design of the pack throughout production.

The layout of the very first prototype motherboard sent to early production meetings and the one on the final packs you see in the movies are virtually identical. But throughout the build designs changed and its just not feasible, due to both time and money, to re-laser 2 dozen motherboards to move a hole pattern a quarter of an inch.

Also, just a bullet point list of some things that seemed up in the air:

There are only 2 3D printed parts on the entire pack and a lot more traditional prop fabricating methods were used than it may seem.
The straps and padding are 100% in house made.
The warning label on the gun is laser engraved, not printed (and I wrote it myself, hope you liked it)
The inside of the faraday cage looks like copper wire tediously wrapped around rings, and it is.

But it seems like you folks have a damn near perfect parts list as it is, so good luck, happy building, and I look forward to seeing your packs at cons :)
By deejeerie
#4880745
BTW, I don't think that the design itself is such a pain in the ass. It totally makes sense and I am excited because it is going to give me easy access to upgrade my build when I am able. I think the pain in the ass part is getting it machined one piece at a time, in different locations, for a good price. I'm not sure what I'm gonna do to create mine. I've considered using a cnc to etch the design on to the aluminum, then getting my hands dirty the old fashioned way, if I can't source a way to get it fully cut.

BTW, I feel the wire wrapping pain. I make chain maille. :-)

Hvd wrote:I totally love this thread, so many amazing builds!

Just wanted to say, as the person who designed the motherboard that seems to be such a pain in the ass, that the hole pattern designed was laid out in such a way that it would accomodate changes made to the parts and design of the pack throughout production.

The layout of the very first prototype motherboard sent to early production meetings and the one on the final packs you see in the movies are virtually identical. But throughout the build designs changed and its just not feasible, due to both time and money, to re-laser 2 dozen motherboards to move a hole pattern a quarter of an inch.

Also, just a bullet point list of some things that seemed up in the air:

There are only 2 3D printed parts on the entire pack and a lot more traditional prop fabricating methods were used than it may seem.
The straps and padding are 100% in house made.
The warning label on the gun is laser engraved, not printed (and I wrote it myself, hope you liked it)
The inside of the faraday cage looks like copper wire tediously wrapped around rings, and it is.

But it seems like you folks have a damn near perfect parts list as it is, so good luck, happy building, and I look forward to seeing your packs at cons :)
User avatar
By PinkInDetroit
#4881564
Aiight, so I got all my Hammond boxes. I have:

3X 1590N1
1X 5550Q
1X 15550A

...but now I'm confused as to what goes where! Where does the 5550Q go? I feel as though I'm missing the box that hooks up to the gauge as the 15550A looks like it belongs to the Nuclear Love Box. Do I have an extra 1590N1?

Ugghhh...
User avatar
By 910dohead
#4882492
gregg.nowling wrote:
TheLegendOfMart wrote:Image

TE CONNECTIVITY / AMP 206705-2

Maybe it is something like that, the grip pipe might be threaded for it to screw into then 206708-1 screws into the top?



That was the closest thing I could find too. Thanks for the other set of eyes on this.

Gregg


Those are mil-spec Amphenol connectors. Specifically in their Plastic Waterproof Connector Series.

Image
Image
User avatar
By 910dohead
#4882493
AJ Quick wrote:
PattyTolen wrote:Anyone figure out lighting kits yet??


Other than a few small shots, we don't know exactly how the packs will light up yet. Best to wait until there is more footage or until the movie is out to do actual light kits.


Here is the inside of a hero pack. Any guess as to what type of board this is?

Image

Video:

User avatar
By MightyAni
#4882520
910dohead wrote:
Here is the inside of a hero pack. Any guess as to what type of board this is?


Since those are in groups of 3, I am inclined to believe they are just 3-LED sections taken off a larger NeoPixel-like RGB LED strip (I think they're also known as WS2801 LEDs). Those can be trimmed and soldered along set groups in the strip, and it looks like that's what was done here, unless I am missing something.

The white tape color is also a popular color, and their spacing suggests it's a 60 LED per meter strip, like at Adafruit.
By TheLegendOfMart
#4882556
910dohead wrote:
gregg.nowling wrote:

That was the closest thing I could find too. Thanks for the other set of eyes on this.

Gregg


Those are mil-spec Amphenol connectors. Specifically in their Plastic Waterproof Connector Series.

Image
Image


So they aren't TE Connectivity connectors?
User avatar
By brianamatopoeia
#4882733
AJ Quick wrote:Good eye. They really did just use a bunch of Hammond boxes.

Wouldn't be surprised if they just raided a store that had all of these parts on the shelf. Their choice of ball valve seems odd, but it is stocked at 1 store in California.

The more you post those pictures the more I do believe it is just copper. Looks like maybe they screwed some of the odd pieces together and then brazed or soldered it together.



Can you say which store the ball valve can be found at?
User avatar
By brianamatopoeia
#4882737
Spongeface wrote:
fifth_beatle wrote:Not yet. I would like to know where the mesh can be purchased, as well.

I purchased a sample of the 8 mesh from TWP: http://www.twpinc.com/wire-mesh-material/aluminum/8-mesh-028-aluminum-36
Very nice material, price is $5 per sq ft.

Something very similar with just a bit thinner wires: Amaco WireForm Metal Mesh aluminum expandable Modeler's Mesh - 8 Mesh, pack of 2 sheets, 16"x20" so 4.4 ft^2. Purchased mine from Amazon (Blick Art Materials) for under $18 shipped. It should be enough to do the dome and hopefully enough left over for the side meshes, but I am not sure about that yet...

Here is a picture of the two meshes, TWP on the left and AMACO on the right:
Image

And here is the AMACO on a test fit for the top piece of the cage:
Image



what did you use underneath the mesh to form the shape? It looks great!
User avatar
By JoeLuna33
Supporting Member
#4883849
PeterV3329 wrote:Has anyone found out what the synchotron is made out of/ if it's an off-the-shelf item yet? several of the screen used props sold recently on Screenbid: https://shop.screenbid.com/images/lot/1 ... 1476138124


It's all custom fabricated. No off the shelf parts unless you count copper tubing.
By gregg.nowling
#4884239
I finally got my project boxes in today, and while I'm sure someone figured this out and I just missed it, I'm pretty positive that the project box under the radioscope custom shroud, can't be a Hammond 1550A. It's too narrow.

I've looked at all of the Hammond boxes and I've decided to go with a 1590G. It might need to be cut down length wise a little...maybe...but width wise it's spot to be able to hold the counter and the the switch.

I blew up one of the Feig photos, and laid all of the parts on, and it's pretty convincing that the 1550A is too small.

Like I said....I'm sure this has already been figured out, but in case it hadn't been, I didn't want to not say anything.

This is with the 1550A box. I have a picture with it sitting on top of it...but Photobucket is being stupid right now.
Image
User avatar
By JoeLuna33
Supporting Member
#4884266
The shroud is wider than the box. That's why it looks that way. There are pics where you can see the underside of the box and it's only about as wide as the window cut into the shroud.
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By gregg.nowling
#4884331
JoeLuna33 wrote:The shroud is wider than the box. That's why it looks that way. There are pics where you can see the underside of the box and it's only about as wide as the window cut into the shroud.


Do you have a link to that pic? I'd love to see what you are talking about.
User avatar
By Travis Burrell
#4887896
AJ Quick wrote:I was going to see if I could find this warning, label... then I figured out what it said:

Image

WARNING:

DEVICE CONTAINS HIGH
VOLTAGE, RADIOACTIVE
AND PROPRIETARY
ECTOPLASMIC DIFFUSION
COMPONENTS.


Sorry Im asking a question from an old post but, where is this on the 2016 pack and which pack?
User avatar
By operadivablock
#4889799
This forum was beyond helpful, thank you everyone who has offered suggestions on it! I was able to create two proton packs for a Holtzmann and Yates cosplay because of your wonderful ideas.

Image

Please check out, my blog https://maeberrycosplay.wordpress.com/2017/02/06/diy-ghostbusters-2016-cosplay/detailing exactly what parts were used and how to create both the costumes and the proton packs/guns!
User avatar
By Travis Burrell
#4890089
crydrk wrote:
Also, I found a backpack that looks passable. I might be purchasing this soon if there is no definite answer in the near future.
http://www.amazon.com/Moon-Lence-Mountaineering-Water-resistant-Waterproof/dp/B00YGX4M9W/ref=sr_1_42?ie=UTF8&qid=1443593808&sr=8-42&keywords=orange+backpack
Image

[EDIT] ^ I thought I recognized that yellow piece. Someone already found this pack and asked Feig. His reply was "close enough".


avlisdivad wrote:I used the same backpack.... But modified the straps tp have more orange.

Image


Im going to try and look for one of these back packs similar to this. Does the one posted above originally come with those key fob kind of clips or were those modified on there??
User avatar
By Travis Burrell
#4890090
one more question, im sorry guys...

So have we determined that these are all the Hammond Boxes for sure? Im assuming so since these are the ones available in the shop. I just wanted to verify the quantities and locations and such. Ive read others mentioned in this thread so I thought I would include those in some of the other photo.

Image
Image
User avatar
By Ecto Vader
#4891699
AJ Quick wrote:More stuff to identify on the Mk1 Reboot Pack:

Image


Have anyone realized that the small "ribbons" on each post of the "speaker cage", resembles the very same colors and pattern as the GB1 Proton Pack ribbon cable? I was pointed that out this past weekend by one of the members of the GA Ghostbusters. ;-)
User avatar
By Travis Burrell
#4892702
Ecto Vader wrote:I've just made a thing... I took Mart's design, and tweak it a little bit to fit the real connectors and a real valve. It should hold the valve.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2245871


I do not have a 3d printer and I have made most of my reboot stuff from wood and plastic sheets. Could you tell me the outter measurements of this ? Im going to try and make one.

I read the 25mm outside but would like to know height width and depth. Thank you.
User avatar
By Ecto Vader
#4892737
Travis Burrell wrote:I do not have a 3d printer and I have made most of my reboot stuff from wood and plastic sheets. Could you tell me the outter measurements of this ? Im going to try and make one.

I read the 25mm outside but would like to know height width and depth. Thank you.

I've designed the bracket with enough muscle to hold the valve's weight. Those measures are NOT accurate as in the screen-used packs, but just to be able to fit and support both the real valve and connector. I don't know the actual height of the pipe, since I was playing by how high it looks compared to the real ones. But based on my result... it's actually 15 mm from the top of the lip to the top of the pipe. I would go 20mm, if I was you, to leave some space for the fake "weld".

I've posted two pictures on my previous post, but here's the one with the measurements I did for my bracket. On the left center, you will see the diameters I've done for the "tube" that holds the valve, and somehow close to accurate. The screw holes are a little bit off-center, but easily you could omit that if you are making the bracket with other materials and use the real connector as a guide.

Image
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User avatar
By Travis Burrell
#4892834
thank you very much! I appreciate it. When you were talking about leaving room for the fake weld. I know what weld you are referring to... but do you mean leave room in the hole (leave a gap) or do you mean leave enough room on the bracket for the width to put the fake weld on? (go slightly bigger than those dims?)

Ecto Vader wrote:
Travis Burrell wrote:I do not have a 3d printer and I have made most of my reboot stuff from wood and plastic sheets. Could you tell me the outter measurements of this ? Im going to try and make one.

I read the 25mm outside but would like to know height width and depth. Thank you.

I've designed the bracket with enough muscle to hold the valve's weight. Those measures are NOT accurate as in the screen-used packs, but just to be able to fit and support both the real valve and connector. I don't know the actual height of the pipe, since I was playing by how high it looks compared to the real ones. But based on my result... it's actually 15 mm from the top of the lip to the top of the pipe. I would go 20mm, if I was you, to leave some space for the fake "weld".

I've posted two pictures on my previous post, but here's the one with the measurements I did for my bracket. On the left center, you will see the diameters I've done for the "tube" that holds the valve, and somehow close to accurate. The screw holes are a little bit off-center, but easily you could omit that if you are making the bracket with other materials and use the real connector as a guide.

Image
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