Hey guys....
I ended up getting my hands on a few parts that go to the ghost trap, like all of the knobs, which I am sure I will have to remove the setscrews to cast them. Either that or leave them in and the little areas would just turn into areas you would want to drill out. I also got my hands on the Ghost trap light and resistor as well as a few pack parts. I want to start resin casting these things asap.
I am familiar with Smooth-On products. I think they are great. I used their silicone years back to make a Freddy mask.
I'm curious, when it comes to resin and silicone, what do you guys think is the best? I am a little skeptical of using Alumilite or whatever it is from my local hobby shop. Smooth-On might as wells be ordered because the nearest place that has it is close to 2 hours away in North Hollywood.
By likesjellydonuts
My experience of using alumilte, has actually been less problematic than smooth on. Smooth on is good, but you're mostly paying for the name.
By Weideman
I've used alumilte products once as it was the only thing I could get my hands on (I live a rural part of AZ and it was either order smooth on and wait or grab what I could find at the local hobby shop). It wasn't bad stuff, had some issues that I think were related to how long it sat on the shelf before I bought it but my only complaint was the price. It was relatively expensive compared to what I could have gotten elsewhere if I was more patient. For what you are doing though, it should work just fine.
Thanks for all of the answers guys. I ended up ordering some Smooth-On products from Reynolds Advanced Materials.
First I kinda got lost reading a lot of descriptions on Smooth-On's website and then I settled on a few products but I think my reasons may be valid....

I got:
Mold Star 16 FAST - It is tear resistant and exhibits very low long term shrinkage.

Smooth-Cast ONYX - Although it is heat resistant (which is not why I chose it but hey, it won't warp like 3D printed PLA, lol) I wonder if it is impact resistant? It comes out a deep dark black, which is perfect for things like ghost trap knobs and Clippard Valves, but it can also be buffed to a glossy black, again, perfect for some of the knobs. Other than that, sand it, primer, and paint it.

Thanks guys. Maybe I will take pictures and post them as I play around with the process and give my input on the outcome of the products. Don't get me wrong, I do own a 3D printer and yes you can do some amazing stuff with it but if you need certain parts quicker than you can print them then I truly think resin casting would be the way to go, not to mention I think resin casting off of the REAL parts would add a perfect touch of realism to any 3D printed proton pack or ghost trap.
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