User avatar
By NotSabbat
#4900549
Hello all;
I became more than a little obsessed about making a Ghostbuster costume for this Holloween and now that its over and Im not busy building, I thought I would share what I made with the help of this fine site and members.

I used an old Printrbot Simple metal with a 6"x6"x5" bed to print it, a Bondo spot filler/glaze as the filler and a $20 detail sander from Walmart to smooth it out.
I used STL files from DancinFool, CountDem0nt, MileyORiley and a couple STLs I made myself. Its very obviously not done yet, there are a few tweeks I need to make before its accurate, but its in a good place, I couldnt have done it without this site and I wanted to share

Here is where it is now:
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The wood ended up warping. Eventually I will replace it, but it did the job for the season.
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You can kind of see the texture from the bed liner here
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Some in process pictures

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The gear box in the smoothing proccess
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Cheap wood motherboard for now. The mounting brackets are 3D printed too and have worked really well :D
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The spacers
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Blurry picture of my back at a Halloween party
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Future plans are to correct the inaccurate straps on the ALICE pack, replace the Clippard Valves with real ones, fix the grey clippards (they arent correct), Lights and sound, get decals and make a better wand completely. The wand was made in about a day just to get it done for Holloween, so isn't very good.

The whole thing weighs about 15lbs.

So there you go, my pack build.
Last edited by NotSabbat on November 13th, 2017, 7:30 am, edited 7 times in total.
#4900674
Very nice work. Just curious who’s files did you use for the main shell parts? Did you have to scale anything or were they full size?
User avatar
By NotSabbat
#4900697
CountDeMonet wrote:Nice work! Looks like it's coming along nicely.
Thank you! Your thread on 3d building was obviously a big resource for this project, so thank you for that!
TK5759 wrote:That was worth the wait. Awesome work!
Thank you!
davidkram2003 wrote:Very nice work. Just curious who’s files did you use for the main shell parts? Did you have to scale anything or were they full size?
I used the proton pack from Dancinfool82 for most of the shell, I would definitely recommend it as a place to start, however there were some problems with it; There are a couple of sections that were "open meshes" and I had to download MeshMixer and do some google searching on how to fix them. Once the parts were "Healed", I was able to print them without issues, though they weren't quite as crisp as the original versions. Though since proton packs look best when they are a little beat up, I guess having some less crisp parts are OK :D
I know the gearbox was one of the sections that needed to be fixed, but there were a couple others as well, I looked over my notes, but I cant find any other sections that I specifically fixed. All of Dancinfool's stuff is 1:1 scaled, so no issues there. His set also had the "Sync Generator", the round part the cyclotron sits on, as a single piece, but that was pretty easy to split up in 123D.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1128019

The cyclotron was made using the models from MileyOriley. I have a 6"x6" bed, so I needed something I could break up. Unfortunately, his files were 1:.9 scale, so I had to do some modification there. I printed out the cyclotron in 4 "pie slices" and I was never able to completely get the seam lines out. In the future I will likely pay someone to print it all in one piece. I used his models for a couple of other pieces, but I dont have documentation as to which pieces I used.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2479141

I will also echo CountDeMonet , that slicerd's Clippard valve with text is amazing and you should absolutely use it!
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2286284

tgaocher and TheNwHobbyist also make some really great models, but I didnt really end up using any of their stuff just because I wanted everything to fit right and I was afraid that if I switched creators for the big stuff I would get some issues.

I also scratch built the HGA.

For the thrower I 100% used CountDeMonet's thrower models. His are set up to use PVC pipe for the handle and barrel, since I was in a time crunch, saving a day by not having to print tubes was a big time saver.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2591049

I feel like there are a decent number of resources for making 3d printed props in general, so I didnt feel like I needed to document every single step of the basic build, but I have been keeping better records of the issues Ive had to face in doing to the final details, so I will likely put some stuff up about that.
User avatar
By NotSabbat
#4900711
Not really. I dont have experience with a bunch of different printers and there are a LOT out there. The CR-10 is pretty low priced and seems to be liked by the 3D printer community. I just ordered myself the Tevo Tornado; It hasnt been out very long, but people are saying good things about it and its basically the same thing as the CR-10. Gearbest is having a sale on them right now:
https://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d ... gIxF_D_BwE
rayp_Stantz liked this
User avatar
By CountDeMonet
#4900764
I've found that bondo glazing and spot putty works really well for large holes. I usually do sanding at 100-200 grit to get the layers down and a pretty good finish. Then hit it with Rust-Oleum Automotive Filler Primer 2 or 3 coats. That stuff is awesome. Then sand with 400 grit when cured and its ready for paint.
rayp_Stantz, NotSabbat liked this
User avatar
By rayp_Stantz
#4900771
The printer i looked at only has 22x15x15cm. The cr-10 has 30x30x40cm...a lot more.

Now i have two questions:
Do you guys think the small printing size of 22x15x15cm is a problem?

Comes software with the cr-10 or do i need extra third party software ?

Edit:
Just watched some vids. Guess ill take the cr-10 cause of the printing size and the lot cheaper price.

Greets
User avatar
By NotSabbat
#4900779
So, I didnt want to spend a lot of space going over stuff people have seen a hundred times, so I didnt want to put too much focus on the shell build process, but there are some problems that I have found solutions to that other people may find useful.

For one, I could NOT get the shock mount to look like anything other than a 3D printed piece no matter how much time I spent sanding it. The solution I found was to put a metal washer on the top (the original model had a washer on it already, but I attached it facing the bumper), attached it with a real screw, spray painted it silver and then finished with silver rub and buff ($6 at Hobby Lobby). Its still not perfect, but Im OK with the way it looks now.

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I also finally been able to get my decals. I used the Pro sheets downloaded from GBfans, though for some reason they were printing small and I had to enlarge them by 110% to get them right. Its kind of hard to tell from the picture, but the metallic paper printed out beautifully! The "foil" sheet is printed on "Weatherproof Silver Polyester Laser " from Onlinelabels.com. https://www.onlinelabels.com/Products/OL177SP.htm
I purchased 6 sheets for $15 shipped and the ended up sending me 8! I got the link from another thread, but I dont remember which one. Both were printed at Kinkos, the white was printed on adhesive backed paper (which I plan to cover with packing tape before attaching) fro $1.50 a sheet. I had them print 4 copies for about $10. Here is what they look like.

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I had purchased a ribbon kit for my pack, but it was just too short for my liking. I found a company on ebay that was selling a 30ft roll of the Spectra cable ribbon for $10. Unfortunately when I received it I found out that the roll was only 2/3 the width of the accurate ribbon. Turns out hot glue sticks to the material that the cables are made of really well and I was able to use some extra ribbon to make make a wider cable that had the length I was looking for. I put a bit of hotglue along the seam on the back, waited a bit for it to cool and smoothed it with my finger (be careful not to burn yourself). I suspect that a heat gun will make the seam even less noticable.

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The glue seam on the back
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User avatar
By NotSabbat
#4900859
I havent seen a thread about this, so I thought I would write about making your own Aluminum decals.

I really like the decal sheet that I used for the "Foil" decals. It gives a great brushed aluminum look to the deals, however they are very thin and are still decals. Most of the decals are placed on smooth surfaces and other than them being thinner they are basically indistinguishable from actual metal stickers, such as the decal on the bumper:

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However the decal on the gearbox is on a rough surface and was very obviously a decal made of something other than metal, you can see all the bumps underneath;

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So I tool some tin snips and the Cherry Coke Zero can I just finished and cut off the top and bottom leaving me a small piece of sheet aluminum. Spend some time gently rolling the aluminum in the opposite direction of the natural curve to flatten it out a bit, take your time to avoid creases.

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I then took the gearbox decal and put it on the sheet of aluminum of Aluminum. I put it on the label side so that the decal would curve towards the surface I would be sticking it to rather than away from it, which could possibly cause it to peel off in the future.

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Then cut it out leaving me with a neat aluminum label. It should also be possible to print transparent lapels and then put those on the shiny side to create the metal decals.

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Use some DAP contact cement (it really is the best) on the back of the decal and the surface. Remember to read the safety label and directions.

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Wait 20 min and attach. Here is what the decal looks like now; way more like what a metal decal should look like....because its metal :D

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