Anovos Proton Pack Kit – Shipped October 2018
GhostLab42 Pack, Blaster, Power Cell boards, lights, etc. – October 2017
I’m not going to do a step-by-step build. That has been done far better both here and on the RPF.
For some Anovos specific help, I recommend Livewire008’s build and video viewtopic.php?f=2&t=45360
A previous order from Anovos for an Imperial Officer hat took a year and a half, so I was cautious when the pack kit was announced. I waited until there were actual kits delivered in 2017 before placing my order. My kit could be could called a “Second Wave Kit” delivered in the Fall of 2018. Fortunately, no broken parts and little to no rust on the metal bits. Unfortunately, the sheet of labels was folded during packing, so I have a couple of annoying creases.
As mentioned in the video - Be careful when drilling! The Anovos parts will crack if you try and increase drill sizes too fast. The temptation is to get to the finished size quickly, but you’ll spend a lot more time repairing the damaged parts. At most, every other until you are at about 1/8”/5mm then stick to then next size up. Be particularly careful on the first complete turn, when the cutting edge grabs the material starts to dig in.
The GhostLab42 system was designed before Anovos even announced they were working on a pack/thrower kit, so I expected that “some” modifications would have to be made.
I wanted to be able to repair or replace as many parts as practicable, so extra time was spent on figuring out how to assemble the parts using screws, bolts and nuts.
Starting with the thrower, matching up both kits revealed that this wasn’t going to be a “shake the box” build by any means.
A test fit of the bar graph:
As you can see, on this version the circuit board extends all the way to the edge of the housing. The kit wall is about 1/4”/6mm thick, so there was no way that stock display would fit. The slot was also too narrow to fit the LED array, so it would have to be cut wider. Since the opening would have to be resized, the existing raised “bezel” was ground off and the opening extended
Gloves, eye protection, and particle mask! The resin and fiberglass dust created when grinding are "Bad"
Since I would have to create a new bezel detail, I did not have to make the opening exactly square.
I still had to get the whole assembly flush on the outer edge, and keep the ribbon cable connector to connect the controller board. I carefully de-soldered the circuit board from the LED Array. This took about an hour going very slowly and careful to not overheat the array and damage any of the segments. Keep your finger on the plastic case, keep moving the iron, and back off when your fingers tell you “too hot!” If you have upgraded the ribbon cable on your Spirit pack, you can re-use a short segment of it here! I used a through-hole-plated prototype card to act as the connection between the array and the cable. This way, it is a stronger mechanical connection, and is much easier than trying to attach a tiny wire to a tiny pin. Match up pin for pin on both ends
I still had to cut the board edges flush with the LED array to get it into the housing.
Test fit until it looks good
Some styrene strip stock was cut using a miter box and razor saw to create a new raised bezel
Prime, putty, and sand as many times as needed, until you are ready for a finish coat of satin black
While test fitting, a couple of solder joints came loose, causing minor panic attacks “Did I burn something?” After finding and re-soldering the broken joints, generous amounts of hot melt glue were used to reinforce all the connections.
Next – Switches, the trigger and instrument boxes.