- July 4th, 2012, 7:59 am#398700
First up, since I'm planning to make it Post-GB2 ECTO-1, as based on the hybrid continuity of the Ghostbusters Omnibus Timeline, I need a few more decals. I need at least one more GB1 logo, since the kit only includes the three appropriate to the original ECTO-1 (It's got four GB2 logos, which is right, but that doesn't really help much).
So I took a scan of the decal sheet, and made a copy of the GB1 logo.
I also did some work on the license plates. I'm considering some methods of making the plates removeable and interchangeable using magnets, so I actually made three sets of plates:
--ECTO-1 plates basically by photoshopping the ECTO-1A plates. This would be accurate from 1989-~2000, including EGB
Some images from Wikipedia helped with the other two sets
--ECTO-1 plates appropriate to ~2000-~2010
--ECTO-1 plates appropriate from ~2011-Present
I put one extra of each of the four designs on, just in case, meaning two GB`1 logos and 3 each of the plates:
I've tried printing those up on decal paper, but I'm having some problems getting the settings right. I'll let you know when I get it to work. The 1990s plates are usable, and the 2000s in a pinch, but the logos are sloppy and the 2010+ plates look like mud.
So, I mentioned in another thread I realized Minimates scale pretty well with the 1/25 models. Behold:
The Ghostbusters and the classic original ECTO-1 (in GBOT terms, late 1983-1986), the Polar Lights kit from 2002.
(Yeah, I never said I had access to a really good digital camera)
A bit of fun with the Minimates. Venkman's being Slimed and Egon and Janine are making out in the background
The Ghostbusters and the ECTO-1A, probably just as they arrived at Liberty Island, December 31, 1988. Venkman: "I wonder if she's naked under that toga". The ECTO-1A is the AMT one I bought and made in 1990, when I had no patience and practically slopped it together.
(I bought a set of GB2 movie Minimates with the Slime Blowers for Ray and Winston. Also gives me a set of work gloves for all four, and a Giga Meter for Egon)
Now...on to the Round 2 repop:
Here we see the Minimates trying out the interior. (Obviously, I haven't painted the interior yet) The front seat works pretty darn well. The back seat is a little more cramped.
The Minimates inside the test fit of the main body and the interior. The backseat figures had to have their lower halves removed to fit into the car. Fortunately, being Minimates, that's easy to do.
I'm considering not gluing the body, interior, and chassis together just so I can take it apart and take the Minimates in and out. We'll see how feasible that is as the project advances.
This is a little trick I learned from Star Trek modellers: use a dark color, like black or (in this case) Gunship Grey to line the interiors of the pieces. These are parts that won't actually be seen when the model is assembled, which makes it feel weird to do at first, but it blocks light and minimizes the translucence of the plastic. It gives it more of a solid, less toy-like look. (But since it won't be seen, it doesn't have to be a totally perfect, pretty paint job either)
The bottom of the chassis, painted Rust. This is one of the options from the instructions; I'm gonna try that one. If I don't like the results in the end, I'll just paint it flat black like I did the earlier two models.
So I took a scan of the decal sheet, and made a copy of the GB1 logo.
I also did some work on the license plates. I'm considering some methods of making the plates removeable and interchangeable using magnets, so I actually made three sets of plates:
--ECTO-1 plates basically by photoshopping the ECTO-1A plates. This would be accurate from 1989-~2000, including EGB
Some images from Wikipedia helped with the other two sets
--ECTO-1 plates appropriate to ~2000-~2010
--ECTO-1 plates appropriate from ~2011-Present
I put one extra of each of the four designs on, just in case, meaning two GB`1 logos and 3 each of the plates:
I've tried printing those up on decal paper, but I'm having some problems getting the settings right. I'll let you know when I get it to work. The 1990s plates are usable, and the 2000s in a pinch, but the logos are sloppy and the 2010+ plates look like mud.
So, I mentioned in another thread I realized Minimates scale pretty well with the 1/25 models. Behold:
The Ghostbusters and the classic original ECTO-1 (in GBOT terms, late 1983-1986), the Polar Lights kit from 2002.
(Yeah, I never said I had access to a really good digital camera)
A bit of fun with the Minimates. Venkman's being Slimed and Egon and Janine are making out in the background
The Ghostbusters and the ECTO-1A, probably just as they arrived at Liberty Island, December 31, 1988. Venkman: "I wonder if she's naked under that toga". The ECTO-1A is the AMT one I bought and made in 1990, when I had no patience and practically slopped it together.
(I bought a set of GB2 movie Minimates with the Slime Blowers for Ray and Winston. Also gives me a set of work gloves for all four, and a Giga Meter for Egon)
Now...on to the Round 2 repop:
Here we see the Minimates trying out the interior. (Obviously, I haven't painted the interior yet) The front seat works pretty darn well. The back seat is a little more cramped.
The Minimates inside the test fit of the main body and the interior. The backseat figures had to have their lower halves removed to fit into the car. Fortunately, being Minimates, that's easy to do.
I'm considering not gluing the body, interior, and chassis together just so I can take it apart and take the Minimates in and out. We'll see how feasible that is as the project advances.
This is a little trick I learned from Star Trek modellers: use a dark color, like black or (in this case) Gunship Grey to line the interiors of the pieces. These are parts that won't actually be seen when the model is assembled, which makes it feel weird to do at first, but it blocks light and minimizes the translucence of the plastic. It gives it more of a solid, less toy-like look. (But since it won't be seen, it doesn't have to be a totally perfect, pretty paint job either)
The bottom of the chassis, painted Rust. This is one of the options from the instructions; I'm gonna try that one. If I don't like the results in the end, I'll just paint it flat black like I did the earlier two models.