User avatar
By Braz
#4901250
Braz, what did you use for the A-6 oxygen tanks? They look really good on your roof rack!
I used two condemned fire extinguishers that I bought for a low price from a company that sells them. They emptied them for me, so all I had to do was use some paint remover, do some sanding and paint them yellow. It's pretty simple, but requires a bit of energy. ;)
User avatar
By Raktageno
#4904188
- I designed the roof rack to look like the original, but adapted to my car and needs.
Braz, ANY details you can give about this I will gladly take. I have a 2013 Fit and absolutely want to do this. Your roof rack is what makes this stand out from "oh yeah Ghostbusters" to "Holy crap that's an Ecto!" I'd also like to know about the red strip toward the back of the car. Did you get those custom cut?
User avatar
By Braz
#4904447
- I designed the roof rack to look like the original, but adapted to my car and needs.
Braz, ANY details you can give about this I will gladly take. I have a 2013 Fit and absolutely want to do this. Your roof rack is what makes this stand out from "oh yeah Ghostbusters" to "Holy crap that's an Ecto!" I'd also like to know about the red strip toward the back of the car. Did you get those custom cut?
Hey Raktageno!
It’ll be a pleasure to help you out!

But first things first. I have a Honda Fit TWIST, that already came with the side racks, as you can see in the photos of the previous post. So you’ll have to find ideal ones for your Honda Fit. An important note: any side rack you get will have a low weight limit. I think my complete roof rack probably weighed almost double the weight capacity of the racks. I designed the roof rack and had them made by a company that fabricates roof racks for outdoor tents/camping. They have over 20 years of experience and they assured me that for what I had in mind, it would do just fine. Besides, they said they were used to making roof rack tents and have whole families sleep on top, without ever having any complaints. Just make sure you get someone trustworthy to do the job. But I must say that when I drove with the complete roof rack, I would take it easy in terms of speed.

Another thing that I would like to state, to your advantage, is that I made all this in Brazil. I had to make do with what was available to me to assemble most of the parts. If you see some parts that don’t seem 100% accurate in terms of scale, it’s probably because I had to settle with parts that were closest in size. If you live in the U.S., I’m pretty sure you’ll have more options at your disposal.

ROOF RACK (photo #1) – The roof rack was made of 3cm x 3cm galvanized carbon steel square tubing, covered with black epoxy paint. It has 3 Aluminum Composite Plates, where I screwed on everything I had (photo #2 – before I painted them black). To attach the tanks and storage tube to the roof rack, I used clamps that were screwed on.

BLUE LIGHTBARS (photo #3) – I didn’t have the money to spend on the original Code 3 Force 4XL lightbars, so I used two Wolo 3505M-B lightbars at the front. I bought mine on Amazon. They’re about $117 each.

FOG LIGHTS – I bought replica vintage 4” clear LED fog lights on Ebay, and then tinted them blue. I used 2-3 coats of Vans JDM Lens Blue Tint on each one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M9 ... UTF8&psc=1

I used them with 3 pin LED flasher relays. You can buy them on Amazon, but they’re probably cheaper on Ebay.
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell%C2%AE-Veh ... =led+relay

SIREN – I didn’t wait for the original Federal siren used on the Ecto-1 to show up on Ebay, but bought one with a similar grill. The Federal 66G siren I have is extremely loud. I learned how to hook it up and turned it on a few times at the school’s Halloween party, but could only leave it on for about 3-4 seconds. If you get one, I suggest using a solenoid, instead of hooking it up directly to the siren. This thing kicks like a wild horse if you connect it directly to the battery. I used a Cole Hersee 24213 solenoid.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005K ... UTF8&psc=1

RED ROTATING LIGHT – I bought a Federal model 19 Propello Ray 6v. The same used on the original Ecto-1. I was lucky enough to find one for sale on Ebay. If I’m not mistaken, they also came in a 12v version. I used a 12v step-down to 6v converter with mine.

OXYGEN TANKS – Real oxygen tanks are pretty expensive. So I decided to go with a cheaper option. I sought out a fire extinguisher company, and bought two condemned fire extinguishers. They were kind enough to have them emptied for me, since it’s very difficult to take out the product out, once it’s all dried up. They would pound the inside with a steel rod until the product would break in parts small enough to come out. I used some paint remover and a lot of sanding to eliminate any red paint on the outside. After that, I just had to paint them yellow and put the stickers on.

GREEN TUBE ON THE RIGHT SIDE – I made it out of a 10cm diameter PVC sewage pipe. Since it was easy to buy lids for it as well, it was an easy choice. I would have gotten a bit larger ones in diameter, but the next size was 15cm. Way too big. I opted to paint it yellow, since it would be more attractive to kids (and they surely didn’t know that the original color was light green).

ECTO-1 LICENSE PLATES – You can find these easily on Ebay. Once at the school’s Halloween party, I put them over my car’s license plates by using some black velcro straps.

MARINE ANTENNA (photo #4) – Since I don’t know how to weld, I ended up making the vertical bar and the base of the antenna from wood. The cylindrical part is made from a PVC sewage pipe, and the round part at the top, from half of a styrofoam ball (you’ll surely find these at your local arts & crafts store). To paint styrofoam, you’ll have to get adequate paint (so it doesn’t melt), or brush on a “paint base” (which I did), so you can eliminate the styrofoam texture and spray paint it afterwards.

SNIFFER – This was a little tricky. As you can see in the photos, The two cylinders used on the base were sewage pipes with wooden lids (photo #5). The vertical axel was cut from a steel tube. The metal red box at the top is something used for electrical wiring, which you’ll probably find at Home Depot. I had to cut two holes in them to fit the two thin red metal “sniffers”. Inside the red box, I made a wooden mold, so the rods would stay in the horizontal position. I used some epoxy paste inside this mold to help them stay in place. As the epoxy was drying, I glued a small piece of wood part between the rods, so they would stay aligned (photo #6). I’m sure there’s a better way to do the sniffer, but I had to make do with what was available to me.

HALF-DOME DIRECTIONAL DISH – I used a steel vertical axis with a wooden base covered with silver spray paint. The red arrow was also made of wood. The half-dome I bought online.

ORIGINAL ECTO-1 SIREN – For the original Ecto-1 siren, use the Feniex Storm Pro 100W Siren. Usually, the original siren sound only comes on the 200W version, but for a while, Ultra Bright Lightz was selling the 100W version with this sound. Since then, they haven’t been selling them on Amazon anymore, and on their site, it doesn’t state anything about having the Ghostbusters siren. Maybe Feniex told them to stop, so you’ll have to spend a bit more on the 200W model.

SIREN SPEAKER – I used the Feniex Triton 100W speaker. You can see it in the photos between the Federal 66G siren and the Federal 19 Propello Ray (photo #3). It’s pretty loud!

GHOSTBUSTERS LOGOS AND RED LATERAL “STREAKS” – They’re all magnets. That made it easier to place and remove them whenever I want to. As you can see in the photo, I used tracing paper to draw the red “streak” by hand. I had some big red magnet sheets made, and used the tracing paper to cut them out the way I wanted to (photo #7).

BLUE HOSE – For the blue hoses on the left side, I used a Valterra D04-0046 20’ drain hose. You can cut it in half, and they’ll do just fine in terms of length. It doesn’t come with the connectors, so I bought the Camco 39543 sewer fittings. The challenge is to find a way to attach them to the car. I still haven’t found ideal clamps to do this.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006 ... UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000B ... UTF8&psc=1

SWITCHES – You can use just about any 12v switch panel to turn things off/on. I used the Feniex C-1060 Haleo 600 and they worked just fine.

STICKERS – I designed all my stickers from scratch. But I used an Ecto-1 restoration project page as reference. It has just about anything you’ll ever need.
http://www.gbfans.com/equipment/reference/31/0/

PAINT – Since I don’t know how to use an air compressor, I ended up painting everything with spray paint cans. It was a huge mistake on my part. I wasted a LOT of money, since I had to give each part about 3-4 coats of paint. Mind you, even the white PVC cylinders have to be painted.

BATTERIES – Initially, I thought of buying a 12v car battery to put inside the white box that goes on top of the roof rack, but it wouldn’t fit. So I used five ExpertPower 12v rechargeable sealed lead acid batteries inside the box. The lightbars were the first to use up its battery. Although I used a battery just for the two, it lasted about an hour and a half. The fog lights and the Propello Ray were connected to another battery that also lasted about an hour and a half. Make sure you ground everything. Everything else lasted for hours.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016W ... UTF8&psc=1

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image
robandliv, WShawn liked this
By crabbo_1
#4909448
My ecto-1J ...the japanese mpv ecto is coming along nicely. Hazard stripes are vinyl tape from amazon, logo's are magnetic printer paper coated with waterproofing. I've also knocked up some "call us" signs in japanese.
The roof is going to be limited as everything is being signed around being removable for convention use only.
Currently theres a small red/blue led roof light, a 25w pa system loudhailer that takes a sd card with a siren power up, cycle and power down clip shrunk to around 15s playback. The vehicle sidelights swap out for led flashers.

Image20180827_141222 by Robin, on Flickr
twmedford23 liked this
User avatar
By RPMs
#4911008
What did you use to tint the lenses?
I love those fog lights! Do you happen to have a link to them?
Sure! Here it is:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/292071417677?V ... 2071417677

I ended up tinting the lens, because I thought the blue LEDs weren't blue enough.
Braz liked this
By BRD 527
#4918339
Image
It has been a little over a year since I put the original No Ghost logo's on the door's I figured it was time for an update I got the plate's a few week's ago... Still need to build a roof rack :sigh:

Image
Image
Image
By WShawn
#4921102

Braz, ANY details you can give about this I will gladly take. I have a 2013 Fit and absolutely want to do this. Your roof rack is what makes this stand out from "oh yeah Ghostbusters" to "Holy crap that's an Ecto!" I'd also like to know about the red strip toward the back of the car. Did you get those custom cut?
Hey Raktageno!
It’ll be a pleasure to help you out!

But first things first. I have a Honda Fit TWIST, that already came with the side racks, as you can see in the photos of the previous post. So you’ll have to find ideal ones for your Honda Fit. An important note: any side rack you get will have a low weight limit. I think my complete roof rack probably weighed almost double the weight capacity of the racks. I designed the roof rack and had them made by a company that fabricates roof racks for outdoor tents/camping. They have over 20 years of experience and they assured me that for what I had in mind, it would do just fine. Besides, they said they were used to making roof rack tents and have whole families sleep on top, without ever having any complaints. Just make sure you get someone trustworthy to do the job. But I must say that when I drove with the complete roof rack, I would take it easy in terms of speed.

Another thing that I would like to state, to your advantage, is that I made all this in Brazil. I had to make do with what was available to me to assemble most of the parts. If you see some parts that don’t seem 100% accurate in terms of scale, it’s probably because I had to settle with parts that were closest in size. If you live in the U.S., I’m pretty sure you’ll have more options at your disposal.

ROOF RACK (photo #1) – The roof rack was made of 3cm x 3cm galvanized carbon steel square tubing, covered with black epoxy paint. It has 3 Aluminum Composite Plates, where I screwed on everything I had (photo #2 – before I painted them black). To attach the tanks and storage tube to the roof rack, I used clamps that were screwed on.

BLUE LIGHTBARS (photo #3) – I didn’t have the money to spend on the original Code 3 Force 4XL lightbars, so I used two Wolo 3505M-B lightbars at the front. I bought mine on Amazon. They’re about $117 each.

FOG LIGHTS – I bought replica vintage 4” clear LED fog lights on Ebay, and then tinted them blue. I used 2-3 coats of Vans JDM Lens Blue Tint on each one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M9 ... UTF8&psc=1

I used them with 3 pin LED flasher relays. You can buy them on Amazon, but they’re probably cheaper on Ebay.
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell%C2%AE-Veh ... =led+relay

SIREN – I didn’t wait for the original Federal siren used on the Ecto-1 to show up on Ebay, but bought one with a similar grill. The Federal 66G siren I have is extremely loud. I learned how to hook it up and turned it on a few times at the school’s Halloween party, but could only leave it on for about 3-4 seconds. If you get one, I suggest using a solenoid, instead of hooking it up directly to the siren. This thing kicks like a wild horse if you connect it directly to the battery. I used a Cole Hersee 24213 solenoid.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005K ... UTF8&psc=1

RED ROTATING LIGHT – I bought a Federal model 19 Propello Ray 6v. The same used on the original Ecto-1. I was lucky enough to find one for sale on Ebay. If I’m not mistaken, they also came in a 12v version. I used a 12v step-down to 6v converter with mine.

OXYGEN TANKS – Real oxygen tanks are pretty expensive. So I decided to go with a cheaper option. I sought out a fire extinguisher company, and bought two condemned fire extinguishers. They were kind enough to have them emptied for me, since it’s very difficult to take out the product out, once it’s all dried up. They would pound the inside with a steel rod until the product would break in parts small enough to come out. I used some paint remover and a lot of sanding to eliminate any red paint on the outside. After that, I just had to paint them yellow and put the stickers on.

GREEN TUBE ON THE RIGHT SIDE – I made it out of a 10cm diameter PVC sewage pipe. Since it was easy to buy lids for it as well, it was an easy choice. I would have gotten a bit larger ones in diameter, but the next size was 15cm. Way too big. I opted to paint it yellow, since it would be more attractive to kids (and they surely didn’t know that the original color was light green).

ECTO-1 LICENSE PLATES – You can find these easily on Ebay. Once at the school’s Halloween party, I put them over my car’s license plates by using some black velcro straps.

MARINE ANTENNA (photo #4) – Since I don’t know how to weld, I ended up making the vertical bar and the base of the antenna from wood. The cylindrical part is made from a PVC sewage pipe, and the round part at the top, from half of a styrofoam ball (you’ll surely find these at your local arts & crafts store). To paint styrofoam, you’ll have to get adequate paint (so it doesn’t melt), or brush on a “paint base” (which I did), so you can eliminate the styrofoam texture and spray paint it afterwards.

SNIFFER – This was a little tricky. As you can see in the photos, The two cylinders used on the base were sewage pipes with wooden lids (photo #5). The vertical axel was cut from a steel tube. The metal red box at the top is something used for electrical wiring, which you’ll probably find at Home Depot. I had to cut two holes in them to fit the two thin red metal “sniffers”. Inside the red box, I made a wooden mold, so the rods would stay in the horizontal position. I used some epoxy paste inside this mold to help them stay in place. As the epoxy was drying, I glued a small piece of wood part between the rods, so they would stay aligned (photo #6). I’m sure there’s a better way to do the sniffer, but I had to make do with what was available to me.

HALF-DOME DIRECTIONAL DISH – I used a steel vertical axis with a wooden base covered with silver spray paint. The red arrow was also made of wood. The half-dome I bought online.

ORIGINAL ECTO-1 SIREN – For the original Ecto-1 siren, use the Feniex Storm Pro 100W Siren. Usually, the original siren sound only comes on the 200W version, but for a while, Ultra Bright Lightz was selling the 100W version with this sound. Since then, they haven’t been selling them on Amazon anymore, and on their site, it doesn’t state anything about having the Ghostbusters siren. Maybe Feniex told them to stop, so you’ll have to spend a bit more on the 200W model.

SIREN SPEAKER – I used the Feniex Triton 100W speaker. You can see it in the photos between the Federal 66G siren and the Federal 19 Propello Ray (photo #3). It’s pretty loud!

GHOSTBUSTERS LOGOS AND RED LATERAL “STREAKS” – They’re all magnets. That made it easier to place and remove them whenever I want to. As you can see in the photo, I used tracing paper to draw the red “streak” by hand. I had some big red magnet sheets made, and used the tracing paper to cut them out the way I wanted to (photo #7).

BLUE HOSE – For the blue hoses on the left side, I used a Valterra D04-0046 20’ drain hose. You can cut it in half, and they’ll do just fine in terms of length. It doesn’t come with the connectors, so I bought the Camco 39543 sewer fittings. The challenge is to find a way to attach them to the car. I still haven’t found ideal clamps to do this.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006 ... UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000B ... UTF8&psc=1

SWITCHES – You can use just about any 12v switch panel to turn things off/on. I used the Feniex C-1060 Haleo 600 and they worked just fine.

STICKERS – I designed all my stickers from scratch. But I used an Ecto-1 restoration project page as reference. It has just about anything you’ll ever need.
http://www.gbfans.com/equipment/reference/31/0/

PAINT – Since I don’t know how to use an air compressor, I ended up painting everything with spray paint cans. It was a huge mistake on my part. I wasted a LOT of money, since I had to give each part about 3-4 coats of paint. Mind you, even the white PVC cylinders have to be painted.

BATTERIES – Initially, I thought of buying a 12v car battery to put inside the white box that goes on top of the roof rack, but it wouldn’t fit. So I used five ExpertPower 12v rechargeable sealed lead acid batteries inside the box. The lightbars were the first to use up its battery. Although I used a battery just for the two, it lasted about an hour and a half. The fog lights and the Propello Ray were connected to another battery that also lasted about an hour and a half. Make sure you ground everything. Everything else lasted for hours.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016W ... UTF8&psc=1

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image
Thanks for these details on your build. I might pitch doing something like this to the Portland Ghostbusters I'm associated with.

Cheers.

Shawn
User avatar
By Braz
#4922528
Braz, I would like to see an update please if you have one.

Sorry for taking so long to answer! I did a few things in last year's Halloween party, but there's still some steps to be made for me to feel completely satisfied with the car.

On the first pic, you'll see that I attached the hose once I got to the party, but it still needs some cutting down. In the previous year, I didn't have time to do it. The attachment to the roof rack is pretty sturdy, and so are the two "clamps" I used to get them attached to the car window. On bottom part of the hose, I used a strong Scotch mounting tape on the hose connectors. It stuck pretty well to the car, but I still have to see if all these things will keep the hose attached while driving.

On the second pic you'll see that the main addition was not on the car. I made two wooden bars (one for each side), and painted them to look like the top of the GB ghost trap. The bar is "L" shaped, so it doesn't have a side on the internal part or a top part. Inside the bar, I stuck a whole roll of green LED lights. To finish it off, I had two fog machines hidden behind the front tires. You can see a video of it working here:
https://youtu.be/om8PnmxbGDI911028

Image

Image
  • 1
  • 17
  • 18
  • 19
  • 20
  • 21
[SPOILERS] NEW GB MOVIE SUMMER 2020!

Guys, I know what the title be: Ghostbusters: Ect[…]

Looks to me like the same part. If you're not a […]

Fitzhume - Proton Pack Build

Yes. I think the template shows the motherboard li[…]

We're bringing you the latest updates to the Ghost[…]