#462579
Vinny, I soaked the lenses in a paint thinner NOT CONTAINING ACETONE. It took the majority of the gum and shit off. Then I took my buffer wheel on my dremel and cleaned em up. They came out ok.
The power cell came out mighty clean is now scuffed up so you can't see the bulbs individually now.

Great job you did...
#462654
Morning all. Dropping a line before I go to work here but just started ordering parts for my gun.
I ordered some small parts from FreekyGeeky, as it said he had them in stock. I am hoping they will ship rather quickly.
Most other parts I am still sourcing from the store here and a few other sellers.
#462985
Afternoon folks.
Today I picked up some tubing and am almost at the point where I can nearly finish. The inside of the shell needs some electronics finishing (wiring and battery and soundboard shelf) and the outside requires just a wood dowel for the vac line hose.
I have been slacking but I need some information on a few things:
1) N-Filter - what does everyone recommend for the meshing and steel wool?
2) Any ideas on the size of the "blue Brick" chickety-china batterys?
#463716
Hey guys just bumping my thread for a few answers in regards to my above questions. I am currently awaiting my labels and some gun/wand parts so I'm at project stall for the moment.

Also, waiting on my blue brick to arrive so I can start splitting wires and solder-gluing them, marretting them, etc.

Any idea on gauge of wire (strand or solid) for wiring to the recharge point, master on switch and to the GBFans soundboard?
#463718
OH!
Also need some help with wiring a linear taper pot to the GBFans soundboard (wanna use my Crank knob for my volume control.
Please anyone that can help I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks in advance guys.
#463721
As for the n-filter, you can see what I did here: http://www.gbfans.com/community/viewtop ... 60#p463717

It's not super-duper accurate - the only super accurate thing I've seen is a mesh/filter combo that was sold on the forums a few years back. I went with mine until someone finds the right filter material/mesh material again and offers it up to the community.

I've seen lots of other folks use the same kind of mesh (Some folks find it already done up in metal rather than painting the plastic) ontop of a super low knap paint roller with some dirtying up to make it not-super-white.
#463722
Hoot wrote: Any idea on gauge of wire (strand or solid) for wiring to the recharge point, master on switch and to the GBFans soundboard?
I think you only need high gauge wire between the recharger and the battery. Everything else isn't too terribly important - I'm not using the GBFans soundboard but I used speaker wire in a lot of places. I'm using 12AWG between battery and recharge point because that's the gauge wire coming off my battery. That's probably very overkill :).
#463762
Ok, hopefully AJ and the lads can chime in here and help me a bit with that. I am hoping that my chinese juice box will be here by tomorrow so I can start looking at how to more permanently wire in the soundboard and hard wire my recharge port and master power kill before I go back to the job on Friday.
#464420
Thanks AJ - thats appreciated for sure.

Just recieved my Asian Persuasion Care Package of a blue bwick battewy.
I just don't know how to wire from it. I see the barrel connectors (one for charging and the other for discharging...I can tell those apart). Does one cut the connections off and how does one determine the appropriate polarity for the wiring?
#464471
This plugs into your you amp making an easy connection to the blue brick. If you opt to go this route I can send you the connector.

I drilled a hole into my mobo and fed this cable out for easy access.

In short, with my setup this allows the battery to be disconnected time for charging or swapping batteries.
#464512
Hoot, if you cut off one of those connectors you'll see a red and black wire. Black is negative, red is positive.

Doesn't matter which one you cut as they both do the same thing apparently (in fact you may need to cut off both for separate sound board and charging port connections - i'd have to have another look at the diagram).
#464532
Yeah I'd need to cut them both off it would appear. I bought some terminal butt splices or whatever the crap they are to connect extension wires to the battery leads to the charge port and the kill switch.

I will likely get to this this week. I have been busy between multiple....ummm... court appearances (professional not personal) and other things.

I do want to note. I bought banjo tips from FreekyGeeky. No screws come with these. Anyone able to help me out here?
#464600
So leads are cut and put to terminal disconnects. Using the diagram posted by AJ and I do believe Bromie a few pages back, I will need to wire up appropriately. I need to figure out a way to mount the soundboard. I put a potentiometer in for the crank knob and may use that as a volume control later on. The instructions from Spongeface recommend cutting the existing pot off. I wonder if I can just wire directly in without removing it?
Second; do I need to solder those leads to the switch or can i use a glue that will carry the current (I'm not good with soldering...seriously....terrible).

Anyone able to help with this aspect - this way I can further layout and complete the pack for now. Then start on my wand once my care packages come in.
#464806
AJ Quick wrote:Correct.

You can also use a DPDT switch to isolate both the positive and negative (which would be the safest).

That would put positive on one side of the switch, and negative on the other.

EDIT: The first diagram Bromie posted seems to be correct in that regard.

I'll copy it here:

Image

A: Positive on Soundboard
B: Negative on Soundboard

C: Positive on Battery
D: Negative on Battery

E: Positive Charge Port
F: Negative Charge Port

If its a 2 position switch, the charge port will be the off position. If its a 3 position switch, the center location and Charge port will act as off.
So my only question is where do the recharge leads wire up to from the battery? Direct to the port itself or from the DPDT?
#465640
Ok since everyone has been awesome wirh trying to teach me how to wire these... I need some help. And here's a pic

Image
What goes where on here? And which posts are positive and negative on the panel mount port?
Also the jumpers from switch have to be soldered to the posts on panel mount WITH the appropriate polarity feom the battery RECHARGE side correct?
#465679
OK this may be a little late, but..... If you ordered one of those CCTV batteries they have a built in power switch on the battery. There is no need for a secondary master switch between the battery and the sound board. If you want to cut the power, switch the battery off.

I have these batteries in my pack and my wife's 3/4 pack with GBfans kits and its a super easy set up.
#465685
Ah ok, I have the batteries mounted on the outside of the mono with velcro. What you are doing is way more work than I want to do :lol:
#465691
Ah, good idea Joe. I never thought about outside the pack. I was going to do what hoot is doing with the battery inside moving the switch. Might still to keep it all contained.

Hoot, looking forward to seeing the answer to your question.
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