#477871
So today when I got Eric(Ejgunth87) aluminum bundle I started jonesing to put together my pack. I did pretty well for about 4 hours work. I started with nothing more than a drill some elbow grease and before you knew it, it started to look like a functional pack. Only took completed pictures for the day @2 different points one about 2 hours in the next when I stopped for the day


First I added the Clippard(Which is real and I bought from clippard) I had to file down the middle bolt on it to remove the side extra piece/edge it had. Once I had this done I then marked the screw holes for the other two screws attached to it already. Then I very carefully and slowly drilled through the shell, making sure to ease up as I felt myself get almost through.

Next I then did the same for the Vacum Tube. Then I did the same for the Injector tubes, Ion Arm and HGA. Then I did the same for the Matty Vhook

Next came the part that took a while since I did not have a alan wrench/Hex Set socket small enough for the Matty Vhook. I had to by hand a 1/4 turn at a time l tightened the Vhook assembly and backing plates together.

After all that hard work I made a sandwhich

Here is the result right before my break

Image

Image

As you can see the wand sits pretty flush against the shell

Image

Image


Then after my lunch break I continued on. I then drilled the Hole for the Shock mount here you can see my result
(Yes I know I have not mounted the shock to the shell yet)

Image


Then I spent a good hour Drilling more holes for the beam line filler tube combo, Booster Tube. Then had to stop as my drill ran out of power. I also spent a good 20 mins trying to drill a hole PPD to mount it to the shell. My drill is not strong enough I guess. I did make a nice drill mark in it, so when i go to my auto class on tuesday I can just throw it in the drill press and have it done in 5 minutes or less.


I then was looking at how to attach my Crank Knob to the pack. As you can see from the photo
Image

The screw inside seems to be all the way in. Could I just take it out with a alan wrench fitting and then drill a hole through the shell where a screw that fits that size hole in the crank knob would go? Or does anyone have any better thoughts?


Still have to dye and cut down my elbow pads, mount the shell to the motherboard and both to the alice frame. Do some wiring with my gbfans sound and light kits and mount them to the motherboard as well. Still it is coming together quite nice though
Last edited by Chevyh0tr0d on February 22nd, 2014, 7:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.
By PssdffJay
#477873
Moving a long much faster then I am. Any trouble with chipping?

For the crank knob I've seen quite a few people use a potentiometer so the knob turns. I just ordered 2 off the evil bay for $1. I haven't looked at my knob but that screw should come out. It should just be a set screw.
By Chevyh0tr0d
#477877
PssdffJay wrote:Moving a long much faster then I am. Any trouble with chipping?

For the crank knob I've seen quite a few people use a potentiometer so the knob turns. I just ordered 2 off the evil bay for $1. I haven't looked at my knob but that screw should come out. It should just be a set screw.

No trouble so far. However I have been drilling very slowly. If I had to describe it using a automotive way of thinking, I am drilling a quarter to a half rotation at a time. Also easing up as I hear it breaking through the material. Instead of going completely through it I then flip the shell over and drill the hole from the reverse(usually inner) side allowing almost no pressure on it and giving it little to no chance of cracking.

Forgot to add the picture of the final day of assembly. Prob will take a crack at it next weekend

Image


The next thought I had which I would love to hear with this being a GBFans shell, the N-Filter is already packed on or part of the shell. I wanted to remove this and add my aluminum one I got from Eric but was not sure how to go about this, does anyone have any ideas?
By Chevyh0tr0d
#477882
PssdffJay wrote:I'm going to do the same with the N filter and I had saved someone's build who did it, but I can't remember off the top of my head who. Let me look.

When you find it please Pm it to me.


Also would this work for a potentmeter for my crank knob?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Pcs-Knob-Grey ... 4abffbd059
By Krenzy
#477883
You're making good progress, but may I suggest moving the Ion Arm up to the top left corner of the shell? Currently it's too low. And you may want to flip the injector tubes around so the long end of the mounting plate faces the rear. You may want to move your Booster tube to the left slightly, but that's minimal.

Nice start!
By PssdffJay
#477884
Chevyh0tr0d wrote:
PssdffJay wrote:I'm going to do the same with the N filter and I had saved someone's build who did it, but I can't remember off the top of my head who. Let me look.

When you find it please Pm it to me.


Also would this work for a potentmeter for my crank knob?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Pcs-Knob-Grey ... 4abffbd059

Still trying to find that build.

That link is for the knob only and no pot. You are going to want a pot with a 1/4" post if its the crank knob from the gbfans shop or similar.
By Chevyh0tr0d
#477885
PssdffJay wrote:

Still trying to find that build.

That link is for the knob only and no pot. You are going to want a pot with a 1/4" post if its the crank knob from the gbfans shop or similar.

This is a original Ratheon Crank Knob. Not a resin/replica
By PssdffJay
#477895
Nope, no the one I was thinking of but that's a good one too with the "filter" elements put in. I still really like that.

I can't remember. It showed it being cut out in parts or they talked about cutting it out in parts and then filling in the gaps with a putty. Argh, work brain work!
By Chevyh0tr0d
#477903
Wharin wrote:you also mounted the v-hook crooked. didn't we talk about this?

Not the vhook but a few other things. It maybe mounted crooked on the inside but on the outside it sits nice and flush and straight. So who cares if it is mounted crooked on the inside no one but me is gonna know at a con.
By PssdffJay
#477909
I think I see what happened with the gun mount. Did you put both square plates on the inside? The thinner one should be inside and the thicker on the outside. Like this.

Image

I have details on how I installed it in my build thread.

I can't tell from your photos.
User avatar
By julz
#477998
Hey man

Attaching a new nfilter isn't as hard as you think. Here is the method I used to swap out my 330 filter for a metal one.

Image
Image

Get some light card stock or printer paper. You are going to cut out sections of paper to match the red blue and yellow segments of my picture. Starting from the mother board side. Cut a long strip to match the width of the red section, butt one side of it cleanly next to where it meets the cyclotron, hold it place with a little bit of tape then stretch it over to the other side so it hugs the filter perfectly, on the other side make a crease or mark where the paper meets the beginning of the cyclotron and cut the excess off. Stick that end down with a little tape as well, so the end result is you have covered that section neatly with paper/card. Rinse and repeat for all the coloured segments i've shown. You don't need to cover the end of the nfilter where the welds and stickers go.

You should now have a mostly covered nfilter, but you should have gaps around most of the curvy places where your straight paper didn't fill. Now get some trusty masking tape and work your way round filling those areas in, I usually pretty much cover most of my paper nfilter with masking tape to make it more sturdy. It's fine to go a smidge overboard on the tape in regards to the edges of the of the filter as we are going to trim them off later.

Get a pen or pencil and follow round the edges of the nfilter, this will draw a solid edge line on your paper filter, so you know just what excess bits to trim off. Then get a craft knife and cut a line at the top of the paper nfilter so you are then able to carefully peel off your newly created nfilter template which you will use to cut your metal one. get some scissors and cut the excess edge paper off and you should be left with a paper masking tape template you can now wrap around and attach to your metal nfilter so it should look like the picture below

Image

use the template to draw a line on the metal filter and then using a dremel with metal cutting disks and carefully cut the excess metal off the nfilter. use files and sanding paper to make it nice and smooth and you should now be left with a metal copy of your resin nfilter.

Then very very carefully cut your resin one off. The trick to that is going very slowly. I cut it off in chunks and got rid of most of the main stuff before going back in and doing all the subtle edge clean up. In the end you want to be able to sit your new nfilter right on top of where the old one used to be.

When you have done this. Attach it to your shell using epoxy from the inside. I think I used masking tape to hold it in place so I could turn it over and smother the area with epoxy.

Them Boom, you are done :cool:

Image
Ecto-1 fan liked this
By Chevyh0tr0d
#478040
So I decided to tackle some more work on my pack today. Went to home depot and ending up getting a box of 100 self tapping screws for two different sizes. I only used about two or three of each, so I will probably return these and put the proceeds towards a decent dremel tool.

Either way got a bunch of work done

Started out screwing my Booster tube and Ribbon cable clamp down after using two self tapping screws. Then removed them and added some automotive grade 12 bolts. Again only took completed pictures after done working, I just work until it is dark.

Image


Next I then had to loosen and turn the HGA so the pre drilled holes lined up for the Clippard brass elbow and Legris Elbows lined up. Yes these are vintage, so I ended up having 2 one or two sizes larger than the others.

Image

Next I then added the other two to the locations. The ones near the cylotron holes and on the ion arm are one or two sizes larger so they took some extra drilling and then a lot of filling as my biggest drill bit was only half the size.

Next I then ended up drilling holes to big for the 2 small clippard hose fittings, so I had to drill small correct size holes next to them. These will probably be filled in with bondo before painting

Image

I then did all the work to the Ion Arm such as mounting the ion arm end cap, Resistors and such. The real pain was the Dale 25 Resistor. Took me a good 30+ mins of filing since my biggest drill bit was only 1/2 the size of the hole. Once I got it filled down right just ended up taking a 13/16 spark plug socket and just wrenching it in there a 1/4 turn at a time.


PS do not mind my brother smoking a cigarette and fully tattooed sleeve

Image


Then came the fun part of mounting the Ribbon cable hold down. Had to use self tapping screws to screw new holes through the hold down the ribbon cable and shell. Again I went a 1/4 turn at a time when I was going through the shell, so I had little chance of breakage. I of course went the speed of the flash going through the hold down and the ribbon cable as I held them out the way of the shell.

Then came the fun part with some help from my older brother while trying to pull the ribbon cable all wrapped up through the hole we drilled, I somehow was holding on the ion arm and ending up cracking the threads on the shell for the small hex head screws. Self tapping screws to the rescue once. Once the Ion arm was back in place we pulled the ribbon cable through only to realize we had to much. So we trimmed some down re wrapped the new end and pulled it through.

You can see the new self tapping screws and the remains of the electrical tape as we pulled the ribbon cable through

Image

Also here is a picture of the chunk of ribbon cable we cut down

Image

Then came the last part of the day adding the bumper on, again used some self tapping screws and drilled through the bumper off the shell then mounted it where I liked and self tapped through the shell.

Image

Image

Image

Image


Then we cleaned up and called it quits as it was getting dark.
By Chevyh0tr0d
#4784902
Did some more work on my pack today. Also decided not to cut the N-Filter and add the aluminum 1. Just gonna leave the stock one that is on the shell. So I did some disassembly today and paint. Left the Vhook and one of the original L fittings in as they were both a pain to put on, so just put a little tape on them and around them and went to town. Used 1 full can. Used this so that when the pack gets a few scratches and such in it the silver will shine through and make it look awesome

Image

I used this paint although it dries in 20 minutes, takes a week before I can paint it black so that I can wait for it to be scratch/dent resistant

Image
By onlyalad19
#4784939
Krenzy wrote:You're making good progress, but may I suggest moving the Ion Arm up to the top left corner of the shell? Currently it's too low. And you may want to flip the injector tubes around so the long end of the mounting plate faces the rear. You may want to move your Booster tube to the left slightly, but that's minimal.

Nice start!
I agree with all of this... especially moving that Ion Arm if you have not already. Also, that is a very interesting choice of hardware :-? Any specific reason why you went that route?
By Chevyh0tr0d
#4784984
onlyalad19 wrote: I agree with all of this... especially moving that Ion Arm if you have not already. Also, that is a very interesting choice of hardware :-? Any specific reason why you went that route?

Planning on moving everything but the booster tube. If you are talking about my use of self tapping screws and automotive/hardware grade 12 bolts. First I had plenty of them left, after restoring my chevelle. Secondly I found that the hex head screws I had gotten from ebay were so very small, they did not seem to hold the aluminum parts in place to well. As far as the bolt through the PPD I had to let my autoshop mentor use his drill press to give me a cut through it. He did not want to do it before seeing both the pack,PPD and bolt. So I had to guess on a bolt long enough to make it through the PPD and shell. This I had to find at Home Depot and I assumed I would need a 4+ inch bolt.
By deadboy munster
#4785048
Lets get something straight on here... plain and simply. Andrew aka Chevy hot rod is not building this pack at all... so far he has held it steady as i did all the work, see that tired looking tattooed boy in his picture? that is me, I am the one who has been building this pack despite how many high quality pictures of MY progress he is posting, and Andrew you wont be posting any more unless you give credit where credit is due, this is also why your car remains half restored. It is one thing to say you are participating in a build it is quite another to literally take credit for my hard work... i understand you want this to turn out as amazing as i do and this is a prop just for you as i am not a cosplayer but i refuse to do a single days more work on " your " proton pack build until you actually give credit to the person building it, so far you have looked up pictures online for me, and bought all the parts from various people on the forum, but in no way have you even put a single screw into this at all... do not give directions as you are not even building it and it is misleading to others... on the bright side anyone have any comments or suggestions for the older brother building this thing yet getting no credit ?
CPU64, JoeLuna33 liked this
By deadboy munster
#4785054
i have built props for major hollywood studios, production companies and make up studios, i also just finished up the first dual action automatic assassin's creed hidden blade from the museum replica's officially licensed reproduction to try and get a job at a prop house on the short list to do the work for the new film... you give credit where credit is due... or you dont get to cosplay with the other reindeer... resume and reel available upon request....
By Letmebleed75
#4785058
Deadboy I really hope we get to see more of your work. You seem to be quite talented and can bring a lot to this forum
CPU64 liked this
Good day from PA.

Welcome to the community! Its good to see more fa[…]

Azuma! You aren’t by chance the Azuma who m[…]

In the second one, what's that on the screen? At […]

Okay, all done. I had to enlarge the hole for the[…]