[csullivan1980]

Upgrades coming!

You can always improve on your gear.


I can't wait to get this installed! But before I do I'm going to make the wires longer.

[csullivan1980]

Beyond easy to install!!!!

Instead of clipping of the old led and soldering them together I bought some leads off of vetco.net.

Solder them to the super bright led and connect to the board and done! Couldn't be simpler, I just have to figure out the best way to mount it. But for now I might just leave it loose.








Next up is redoing the front grip and trigger button and led.

[Kingpin]

I may have to borrow that trick when it comes to my next Thrower build.

[pyhasanon]

I just have to figure out the best way to mount it.

This is how I did it, only held to the gun body via the screw from the top gun knob...

[csullivan1980]

Oh yeah!!! I see it now, is that a spacer that I see where the bolt comes down into the gun?

[pyhasanon]

Yes, it is, just a threaded spacer...

[csullivan1980]

size 6-32? Where would you get something like that? Local hardware store?

[pyhasanon]

Hmmm... I can't remember what the size of the gun knob screw was, just check it... But, yes, local hardware store... I have a hardware store just 5 minutes from my house that sells them for like 40 or so cents each...

[csullivan1980]

I have to say I love knowing that this project is letting me gain new skills.

It always bugged me how I felt I messed up the front grip and trigger.

But luckily I am redoing it but better.

First I made my own trigger butting and light with some spare parts.



And they work!!



I bought a new TC front grip to see if I can better fit the wires. If you notice I made the short yellow wire longer than what comes with the gbfans proton gun light kit. I always felt this was a flaw of the kit.

[csullivan1980]

Successfully mounted! Thanks to Pyhasanon for the idea!!

[pyhasanon]

Rock on, always glad to help when I can! Looking good!

[csullivan1980]

Some more slight modifications.

As much as I want to be screen accurate I also want the pack to be my own.

So, I had some extra clear acrylic laying around and cut a piece 3/4" x 1/2". I took some extra fine grit sand paper and scrubbed both sides, but one side works too. I then place it under the three slots of the top of the TC proton gun. Perfect fit, dabbed some super glue gel and then mounted the super bright led. I personally love the look more and added a layer of protection from water getting in through the exposed to. This is not 100% water tight but better than before.









https://vimeo.com/131357090

[csullivan1980]

Yay! New longer cable for the bar graph arrived today. 200mm is the perfect length!

My problem before what's that whenever I wanted to get into my guns body I would unscrew the base plate and the cable would always come out. Being so short and not a lot of space it made this frustrating to reconnect time after time. Thankfully Spongeface is very good able answering any/all tech questions. He gave me the specs and I bought great replacements.

[gbchef]

Where would I find one of those? Mine needs replacing.

[csullivan1980]

digi-key

FFC TYPE
16 conducter
1mm pitch
200mm

I got both types of styles where the connectors are in the same side and opposite sides. Both worked.

[gbchef]

Cool. Thanks! Available from most electronics supply?

[csullivan1980]

Yeah as far as I know.

[gbchef]

Never mind..digi key is the company. Lol. Thanks!!! Lol

[Makuta]

i realize this isnt the right thread, but people in this thread seem to know alot about the thrower electronics kit:

i just got the Thrower kit.
i also have the sound board, cyclotron/powercell kit, TVG cyclotron kit, and the Vent relay kit.

i have a separate wire then runs from the thrower to the pack to venting.
but here is the problem i am having:
with the "vent light" switch in the ON position, when i hit the Ear button the a white led flashes, and the bar graph does a fancy display, BUT there is no vent sound, nor does is trigger the vent relay.
if i switch the vent switch off, then hit the ear button the pack modes switch as normal.

and pressing the venting button that is directly wired to the soundboard always triggers venting and the relay, but no fancy bar graph show and no flashing LED (i assume this is normal for a direct wire venting).


any idea when the (thrower vent light switched off) venting is triggered from the ear there is no vent sound, OR vent relay getting triggered (even though thrower LED and bargraph animate to venting)?

[Darkstarlegend]

This is awesome....I will be referring to your photos quite a lot! Tried to do some fake welds last night but the putty I used just dried and fell off. Any ideas on how to get the stuff to actually stick to the body? Im thinking maybe to brush the welds with the Gorilla Glue and see if that helps......

[csullivan1980]

This is awesome....I will be referring to your photos quite a lot! Tried to do some fake welds last night but the putty I used just dried and fell off. Any ideas on how to get the stuff to actually stick to the body? Im thinking maybe to brush the welds with the Gorilla Glue and see if that helps......

What kind of putty did you use?

If I remember correctly the putty I used on my TC kit was Loctite Repair Putty (Multi-Purpose) but later ended up switching to J-B Weld Steel Stick.

But if I could go pack and do it over again I would have used Aves Apoxie Sculpt. This is a material with a 1-3 hour working time and a cure time of 24 hours. Grimmy used it in his build and it's amazing stuff. You don't need a whole lot so 1/4 lb is more than enough.

It's faster to buy off the Aves website than Amazon in my opinion.

[Darkstarlegend]

Is basically your standard modelling clay...I'm going to try to use it with the glue and see if that makes a difference. If not...will have to find something else. I have some test pieces I can utilize so I'm not making a mess of the gun.

[Darkstarlegend]

k...didnt work...looks like Im ordering some Aves Apoxie Sculpt.....lol

[csullivan1980]

k...didnt work...looks like Im ordering some Aves Apoxie Sculpt.....lol

You will not regret it. I used it when I upgraded my NFilter from resin to aluminum. This stuff is the $h1t.

[Darkstarlegend]

I'll let ya know how it works out! Will post some photos of my progress....well..once I have a bit more of it....lol

[gold333]

Can't believe how awesome and accurate this looks

[Darkstarlegend]

You have the same Ghostlab42 board that I have, but was wondering what you are using in the pack itself. I have the Mighty Microcontroller and Expansion Module, but no way to connect them to the wand component.

[csullivan1980]

As of today the internals of the pack are as follows:

TC Kit:
-Proton Wand / Light Kit
-WandTip Expansion Kit (Spongeface)

Pack:
-Amplified Sound Board
-Powercell and Cyclotron Light Kit
-CYCLOTRONTVG COLOR CYCLOTRON ILLUMINATION KIT (Spongeface)
-Vent Relay (Spongeface)
-e-Cig Complete Vent Kit (Jimfin)

What I like best about all these kits is that they are pretty much plug and play with each other. Very minimal setup required.

[dstone]

Back in business!!

Yeah Spongeface I did switch out the trigger button but soldering it back on with no trouble. The only part that isn't working is the ear light. That wire snapped off from the little bulb and I wasn't able to get that back on unfortunately.

If you know what kind of bulb I can use to fix it I'm sure I can get that back on there too like new.

https://vimeo.com/128071370

What specs did you find for the ear light? I managed to kill mine while installing it, too.

[Hellraiser7400]

Any chance of a product code? There are so many connectors with this exact information

digi-key

FFC TYPE
16 conducter
1mm pitch
200mm

I got both types of styles where the connectors are in the same side and opposite sides. Both worked.