By alleyradb
#4923383
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I don’t mean to come off as dickish or anything: your slo-blo light hole looks very out of place compared to what my benofkent hole placement is. It should line up right behind the bar graph if I’m not mistaken?

I’m using Filandrius’ build to help reference my current TC build, here’s a pic from his thread:

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Just wanted to point it out before you can’t patch/paint without great difficulty. Again, not trying to be a jerk — sorry!
Last edited by alleyradb on August 27th, 2019, 9:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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By Fitzhume
#4923385
Looks like it’s there but make sure you have a hole between the trigger box and instrument bar. Once you mount those it would be difficult to drill a hole for wiring.

Not sure what you mean regarding Bondo and the grip.
I do have the hole in the trigger box to the rear box. Others have used bondo to attach the handle to the aluminum pipe. Is there a better option to attach the handles to the barrel and rear aluminum pipe?
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By Fitzhume
#4923387
Alleyradb, please don't apologize, I value people's opinions. When looking in the rear box, I thought that the bolt used to hold the rear box to the gun box may get in the way of that light. Now, if I were to make a hole for the Slo-Blo just below the bar graph, it would be going into the solid part of the rear box in the same spot that the bolt is holding the metal plate on the rear box. Other pictures that I have looked at shows that the part of the rear box that extends to the right protrudes the same distance out as much as the heatsink is. Ben had holes that match the trigger box so I don't think I flipped that rear box the wrong way. I'm not sure how to approach that slo-blo hole now as I don't mind patching it but I don't know how I would put that hold there as it would go into the same area as that bolt for the plate. I'm thoroughly confused now.

Here is what I see after I pulled it apart:

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Any other thoughts? Did I not move the rear box over far enough? Do I have too much space between the trigger box and the gun box? Does the rear box stick out further than the heatsink does? I appreciate all the help and comments from everyone that has posted so far.
User avatar
By bishopdonmiguel
Supporting Member
#4923398
Others have used bondo to attach the handle to the aluminum pipe. Is there a better option to attach the handles to the barrel and rear aluminum pipe?
I’ve not seen this kit before. The front handle was cast in on mine (Throwing Chicken) so I didn’t need to deal with that.

I can say that the originals were attached with screws/bolts. The rear handle was attached via holes in the first and last finger grooves, presumably by threaded holes in the tube. The front handle was attached “lengthwise” with one screw/bolt going through the front ear and the other through the rear bump, whatever that’s called. You can see these in various reference photos. Whether these methods will work with your kit I don’t know.
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By Fitzhume
#4923400
After looking at it again this morning, and from the following picture of Egon from GB2, I can see that the rear box protrudes just a bit further than the heatsink. I don't think I'm off by much though. Still, I probably will have to plug the 2 mounting holes in the gun box too. As for the Slo-Blo hole, have those that used Ben's resin kit have to cut into that small block where the bolt attaches the metal backplate?

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Last edited by Fitzhume on August 28th, 2019, 7:06 am, edited 1 time in total.
By alleyradb
#4923403
The gap on the left side of the gun should be between 1/8” and 1/4” — the lever is 1/8” brass so it only needs a couple 1/16’s clearance so it isn’t dragging on the side of your trigger box or handle.

I had to drill into the solid part of the rear instrument panel to mount my light. I went in through the end where the trigger box is and drilled through the trigger box entirely, then through the panel wall (I think it was a 1/4” drill bit — it was a bit to match the hole that is large enough to accommodate the plug ends of my electronics) to hollow the area. Then drilled down into the tunnel below from above where the light hole goes. I then used bondo to patch the hole I made on the trigger box. Just be very gentle and slow with those larger bits — I cracked off a corner on my current build while widening a hole and had to bondo the heck out of it.

If you’re worried about drilling or can’t get in though the end piece you can always dremel it out or you can dismount the rear box and cut into it from behind where it attaches to the gun body — this would hide any damage if any was done.

Hope this helps!
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By Fitzhume
#4923411
The gap on the left side of the gun should be between 1/8” and 1/4” — the lever is 1/8” brass so it only needs a couple 1/16’s clearance so it isn’t dragging on the side of your trigger box or handle.

I had to drill into the solid part of the rear instrument panel to mount my light. I went in through the end where the trigger box is and drilled through the trigger box entirely, then through the panel wall (I think it was a 1/4” drill bit — it was a bit to match the hole that is large enough to accommodate the plug ends of my electronics) to hollow the area. Then drilled down into the tunnel below from above where the light hole goes. I then used bondo to patch the hole I made on the trigger box. Just be very gentle and slow with those larger bits — I cracked off a corner on my current build while widening a hole and had to bondo the heck out of it.

If you’re worried about drilling or can’t get in though the end piece you can always dremel it out or you can dismount the rear box and cut into it from behind where it attaches to the gun body — this would hide any damage if any was done.

Hope this helps!
This does help except for my initial question about the placement of the slo-blo light cap. Since it sits just above the bolt that holds the rear box plate, does your hole interfere with this bolt at all? Thanks for your response and please know that I don't get offended easily :) I appreciate all feedback and criticism.
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By Fitzhume
#4923413
Others have used bondo to attach the handle to the aluminum pipe. Is there a better option to attach the handles to the barrel and rear aluminum pipe?
I’ve not seen this kit before. The front handle was cast in on mine (Throwing Chicken) so I didn’t need to deal with that.

I can say that the originals were attached with screws/bolts. The rear handle was attached via holes in the first and last finger grooves, presumably by threaded holes in the tube. The front handle was attached “lengthwise” with one screw/bolt going through the front ear and the other through the rear bump, whatever that’s called. You can see these in various reference photos. Whether these methods will work with your kit I don’t know.
With this kit, it was always shown using Bondo to attach the handles, however, I'm going to research on attaching the handles with bolts instead. I do have a tap kit so that shouldn't be a problem and just countersink the holes in the handles to create a ledge for the bolt to hold on to. Thanks!
User avatar
By bishopdonmiguel
Supporting Member
#4923426
Here are a few photos showing how the grips were attached.

Rear grips, two bolts in grooves, one at each edge...
https://www.gbfans.com/wiki/Sony_Lobby_ ... re_289.jpg

Front grip, two bolts, pinned on each end...

https://www.gbfans.com/wiki/Sony_Lobby_ ... re_404.jpg

https://www.gbfans.com/wiki/Sony_Lobby_ ... re_378.jpg

https://www.gbfans.com/wiki/Sony_Lobby_ ... re_416.jpg
By alleyradb
#4923440
This does help except for my initial question about the placement of the slo-blo light cap. Since it sits just above the bolt that holds the rear box plate, does your hole interfere with this bolt at all? Thanks for your response and please know that I don't get offended easily :) I appreciate all feedback and criticism.
To counter that problem, I ended up using button cap socket heads with washers to secure the rear instrument panel to the gun body -- which in turn also made for easier routing of my electronics, with less to get potentially caught on when fishing said wires.
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EDIT: I just re-read this and realized you meant the screw for attaching the plastic plate. I thought you were referencing the screws for attachment to the gun body -- please disregard the above.

If the instrument panel box is in place as you want it, just use a shorter socket head -- maybe 1/4" length or possibly something shorter. The plate doesn't need a lot of threading to hold it in place: you can snip the end of the screw off using End Cutting Pliers. But you should be able to find something relatively short in 8-32 or 6-32 (depending which you are using) that should prevent that.

Worst case scenario: you trim a screw down and get a hand cramp because those hardened screws are hard to snip through!
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By Fitzhume
#4923673
It's been a bit since my last post due to the weekend but I have been working on my pack a little bit. I still haven't found a way to clean up that lense I botched but I'm going to wait to see how it looks when everything else is in place.

I put some work into filling and re-drilling the holes in the gun box and rear box to line up the Slo-Blo light properly.

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After much debate, I decided to take the suggestion to attach the grips with cap bolts which worked well. I did have a little trouble with countersinking the 1st hole but I fixed it using a Dremel bit. My front grip and place for the wand tip button/light is one piece so I was not able to attach the grip as the movie prop does. As for attaching the barrel and rear grip pipe, I used E6000 glue and waiting on that to set up.

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The angle of this picture doesn't show to space well between the grip and the rear box but there is space.

I have received my Clippard elbows and have installed them as well. They look rather sharp once on the pack. I need to get a bit more blue hose for the line tube to the HGA. I may have made the blue tube a bit long from the PPD to the resistor. Does anyone use a blue hose that is somewhat hidden in the split-loom to the HGA?

I will edit this post with pictures of the external pack later tonight. I will be putting the bumper and injector lines later on in the process as I need to work on the internals of the pack and lining up the reflectors to the Cyclotron lenses.
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By canpara
Supporting Member
#4923682
Excellent progress. This build is coming along really well!

In terms of the volume pot, I concur with Bishop that it is entirely a matter of preference. Personally, I really liked installing it on my Spengler plate because it is easy for me to reach while I am wearing my pack, it doesn't look out of place, it remains relatively hidden behind my motherboard and it allows me to keep all my electronics mounted to my motherboard (no wires tethering the shell to the motherboard). Some others mounted their volume pot directly on the back of their motherboard, while others chose to give a function to their crank knob, which is also super cool. In the end, you have lots of options and there are pros and cons to all of them.
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By Fitzhume
#4923691
Excellent progress. This build is coming along really well!

In terms of the volume pot, I concur with Bishop that it is entirely a matter of preference. Personally, I really liked installing it on my Spengler plate because it is easy for me to reach while I am wearing my pack, it doesn't look out of place, it remains relatively hidden behind my motherboard and it allows me to keep all my electronics mounted to my motherboard (no wires tethering the shell to the motherboard). Some others mounted their volume pot directly on the back of their motherboard, while others chose to give a function to their crank knob, which is also super cool. In the end, you have lots of options and there are pros and cons to all of them.
I have my Spengler plate now (Thanks to Nathan!), and plan on putting a pot on it to handle the volume control. I really appreciate your comment on this build. There are times where I am just spinning my wheels and I feel that I'm just failing at this. I'm sure I'll hit another point to where I'm not sure what to do when it comes to putting the electronics in the wand. With it being resin, I don't have the same amount of room as someone that has a Chicken Thrower or an aluminum wand. I just have to stay focused on the next step. Thanks again canpara !
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By alleyradb
#4923695
I have my Spengler plate now (Thanks to Nathan!), and plan on putting a pot on it to handle the volume control. I really appreciate your comment on this build. There are times where I am just spinning my wheels and I feel that I'm just failing at this. I'm sure I'll hit another point to where I'm not sure what to do when it comes to putting the electronics in the wand. With it being resin, I don't have the same amount of room as someone that has a Chicken Thrower or an aluminum wand. I just have to stay focused on the next step. Thanks again canpara !
Your build is looking solid!

The wand was easily the most stressful part of my BoK build -- I spent a lot of time thinking, dry fitting, re-thinking, overthinking, and then figuring out how to adapt the electronics into the build. Believe me when I say you're not failing. I think we all went through that stress on our first build: we didn't want to mess up something we so love and shelled out so much money for. Then once you've assembled it for the first time, you're far more confident in your ability to troubleshoot. I'm on my second wand build (TC's v3 kit) and I'm still overthinking and analyzing my work, despite already assembling BoK's wand -- especially because I want to have a functioning wand extension. Just keep your chin up and remember any oopses can be fixed!
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By bishopdonmiguel
Supporting Member
#4923718
For the split loom that runs to the HGA, are those using a blue hose underneath the loom or are you just running the loom to the Clippard elbows?
I’d use hose if for no other reason than to help keep the split loom from bending, etc.
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By Fitzhume
#4923720
For the split loom that runs to the HGA, are those using a blue hose underneath the loom or are you just running the loom to the Clippard elbows?
I’d use hose if for no other reason than to help keep the split loom from bending, etc.
You'd figure that I should have come up with that conclusion myself but I'm constantly 2nd guessing myself. Thank you!
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By Fitzhume
#4923851
While I was waiting for my glue to set up on the wand, I thought I would start working on location of speakers, cyclotron shelf, and other hardware on the motherboard.

I purchased a 6.5" inch speaker and found that the outside of the frame was a bit wide of the aluminum shelf that I purchased from Benofkent. It has ears that can be used for mounting in a car but I will be using the holes in the frame to mount it to the motherboard. The ears were easily bent back with pliers which helped it fit within the shelf. I have drilled all the holes for the speakers and grills while countersinking them a bit to remove burs on both sides.

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I don't have the picture of the speaker and self at this time but this is my focus for the time being. I will get back to the wand once if all the locations and plans for the sound and lights shored up.
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By Fitzhume
#4924088
I've been working every night this past week on the pack. I'm close to finishing up the motherboard to then mount everything. I'm attempting to place the Moonlabs loom clamp in a way that I do not have to modify the mount at all. I think the loom can bend a bit once in the pack for this to happen.

I have drilled all mounting hose for the speakers, cyclotron shelf, sintra mount for the soundboard, Spengler plate holes, and hole to pass wires through the board to the Spengler plate.

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Once I finish the loom clamp this afternoon I will be painting both sides of the motherboard in the same satin black as the pack.

I heating up some sintra to create a small shelf to mount the soundboard to using nylon stands and screws. I used a block of wood and clamps to help shape this piece. Very easy to manipulate the shape of this material.

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I may have purchased a bit too think a piece of sintra but it will work out just fine. I will also be using a piece to mount to my cyclotron shelf to hold the relay and cyclotron boards next to each other. This will most likely sit in the middle of the reflector cups area of the lights for the cyclotron.

To mark the center points of the cyclotron lights, I mounted the shelf on the motherboard and placed the pack on. Then I dropped the reflector cups on the outside of the cyclotron holes to get the center points for the lights.

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These a close-ups of the punch holes I made for these lights. I tried but it was difficult to see the center punch holes clearly but you should be able to see them a little bit:

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I took a grinding bit on the Dremel tool to open the holes a bit to pass the LED light inside the cups. I will be securing them in the cups prior to mounting the shelf with possibly hot-glue or use the idea that canpara had with the sink washers. If I take the washer route, I will then mount the washer to the bottom of the reflector cup.

Power Cell Lights:

For some reason, I really had some difficulty in lining up these lights with the mount I have. I did purchase a power cell mount from Benofkent and this piece is very well built. I had to cut down the bottom portion as a result of the circuit board and the placement of the ribbon cable connectors.

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This was my make-shift mount until I had acquired the nylon standoffs and screws. I had to put this part off until I had those items to then modify the lower part of this mount and drill holes for the standoffs.

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I cut about a 1/4" off the top of the base of this mount.

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This is the top part of the mount. I drilled a 2mm holes in the mount and then tapped to 3mm. This allowed me to be able to hand screw in the nylon standoffs.

This is the image of it together. I didn't get a picture of it in its place on the motherboard.
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Here is a small video after I jockeyed the lights into the position and holding it with tape. Click on the image to view it. It will show the chase lights of the power cell. If it can't be seen, please let me know. Sorry for the side angle. I recorded this on the phone vertically but it saved it on its side.

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On a side note, I popped out the lenses so I could get a better view of inside the pack for all of the shelf and cyclotron stuff. I made the mistake and glued the lenses in before this step. I got ahead of myself a bit with that. Yet, I did mess up the lenses at little with the amount of glue that I used, so this was a blessing in disguise. I since have received replacement lenses because they all had some amount of glue on them that I could not remove which could be seen rather easily.

Since it's a beautify day outside, it's off to teach some baseball and then I'll be back at it later.
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By Fitzhume
#4924485
This last part is taking longer than I thought. I hope to finish up the electronics this weekend. I did place everything in the pack and it looks great. The things I worked on were as follows:
  • Soldering pot
  • De-soldering original pot
  • Extending power switch wires for Spengler plate
  • Riveted Sintra shelf for sound-board
  • Mounting main speaker
  • Testing both speakers together with sound, cyclotron, and power cell lights
  • Mounting CTVG and relay board to Sintra
  • Wand tip wire work
I'm still contemplating how to mount the lights in the reflector cups. I like the idea that canpara had with the faucet washers. I have a couple of rubber feet leftover from something else that I may attempt to use.

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This would be my first time in a while since I soldered anything. This is pre-solder. After the test tonight, the new pot works perfectly and is long enough to make it to the Spengler plate.

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This is the Sintra that I cut to hold the relay and CTVG board. I'm not sure exactly where I'm putting it yet as it could fit on the side, top, or right on the mother-board above the shelf and speaker. I'm leaning toward that placement as of now.

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Utilized more nylon spacers, nuts, and screws to mount these boards.

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I began brainstorming on how to get the wand tip button and light to its destination. I decided to drill a hole big enough for the plug that it could be fed through back to the gun box. With the wire then coming through under the handle, I routed a small channel (may make this deeper) to the end of the wand. I proceeded to Dremel a small channel and holes for the button and hat light.

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Eventually, I will trim up some heat shrink and cover this area the best that I can. I may have to glue the bottom of it with hot glue since the handle and button area is one piece.

I do have a question about the CTVG and relay board though. I am on the waiting list for a vent kit from Fincher Tech, which will be the final piece of this project...I think. (cough*popmech*cough*) For anyone that are using these boards, the CTVG came with LEDs and resistors. Is anyone using this currently to put in the Nfilter at all? If so, should these lights be used from the relay board or the CTVG board?

I'm floored that I've made it this far already in this build. I thought I would never see the day that I would lay that pack on the motherboard and see it light up and sound. https://drive.google.com/file/d/11P3Hli ... sp=sharing

Thank you everyone that has read and helped me with this project so far. It is much appreciated! I hope that I learn enough that I can help others in the future do the same thing. More to come...
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By Fitzhume
#4925051
I slowed down a bit on this build but I believe I'm still close to finishing. My recent focus was to finish the hardware inside of the pack itself as I started showing previously.

I took the idea from Canpara's build on using faucet washers to help mount the LED cyclotron lights in the reflectors. I didn't have any of those so I used rubber feet pads. I drilled holes in them to be just smaller than the LED itself to create a situation that the light will protrude above this hole and into the reflector itself and not fall out. After drilling these holes, I took a razor blade and cut a slit in this to allow to fit the cable/LED in.

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I then took a small zip tie to help close that gap and hold the cable in place.

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I made sure to label each cable after testing the cyclotron lights in the proper cycle and location. I attached the rubber feet/LEDs with hot glue to the base of the reflector cups.

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After mounting the cyclotron shelf above the speaker I then mounted the cyclotron and relay board to sintra in front of the shelf.

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This next image shows my wire placement for my Spangler plate. I used a heat shrink tube (didn't shrink it) to help full the gap in the hole.

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I ran my pot, charging port, and on/off switch to the plate.

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Now that I'm looking at the 2nd image, I may have to double-check the connection on the charging port. The red wire doesn't good.

My wand tip was not beveled or frosted so I decided to attempt that myself. I took a sanding bit form my Dremel and angled it to create a bevel at the end. I then took some sandpaper to smooth it out. I did not take a picture of the final product after I got the tape off. I will update that later. I also took some tape and marked off where I could then sand around the tube to get that frosted look.

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Oh, the loom hole....this part has worried me for some time now. I do not have a 1" step bit but a 7/8" step bit. I thought this would be close enough to then use a Dremel and open the hole a bit. This is prior to opening it up.

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I then opened up the hold a bit to accommodate the tube. I was worried about damage to the bottom of the pack so I decided to go up with the hole instead of down.

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However, with the loom in the hole, it doesn't look as bad as I thought it did.

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You probably have noticed that I do not have my N-Filter on yet. It and the pack prepped to attached it. I'm trying to decide to use Bondo or the E6000 glue for this. The glue will take longer to set up but it also will not require me to do any touch-up painting as the Bondo would. Another reason that it has been off during the entire process, I am on the waiting list for a Fincher Technologies e-cit venting kit. It's starting to look like that I will not get this for some time. I have left room in the pack to place anything that would be necessary for this unit. In the meantime, I will attempt to place some of the LEDs that came with TVG Cyclotron board and route those in the N-Filter for some lighting effect.

Currently, I'm waiting for paint to dry on the wand due it to being so humid as of late. Once this occurs, I will be able to focus on this entirely before I move to decals and slight weathering of the pack.

Like I've told someone else before, I'm a techy guy and am not very good with these types of tools that this project has required me to use. I was completely out of my comfort zone. This was and still has been extremely fun to build this and slowly watch this pack come to life. I'm really looking forward to suiting up for the first time here soon.
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By Fitzhume
#4925359
Wand Update:

I have put more time into the wand this past week as everything is painted and I have been assembling it.

Finished frosting acrylic tube
Ran button/hat light to the end of the wand
Attached Fire button and music switch
Attached rear box
Attached front handle
Attached Clippard
Attached other dials and heatsink

Here are a couple of images of the after product of sanding the acrylic tube.
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The tube in its wand end
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It is a little long but this is alright as I don't have a pop-mech in my wand. Maybe a future upgrade.

For the piece that holds the acrylic tube, I used a Dremel to add some space for the wand lighting.

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I then used hot glue to attach it in case I need to remove it later when I may install pop-mech

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The mounting plate has been prepared and bolts trimmed so they will not interfere with the wand board in the main box.
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This is actually not the final look that I had with the wires that are run to the tip. I was able to move the heat shrink over the wires more and hot to shrink more to cover it better. I then took a little piece of heat shrink and cut it down to cover the bottom opening of that area. I was unable to get a heat shrink sleeve to that end due to it being part of the handle itself. I then cut a slit in the bottom to accommodate the switch posts and wire then glued it down. This image is just before then:
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I attached each side piece using my E6000 glue which is holding them well. I also bolted the front additional barrel on as well. The top knob is aluminum which I countersank an M3 cap head bolt into. The banjo at the end of the wand barrel was giving me trouble so I had to cut down the bolt and then glue it in. I attempted to tap that end piece but that did not go well. I have tested it so far and it does not want to budge.

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The wand Clippard I had a lot of fun painting. This closeup image only magnifies that it is not an original but I'm alright with that because when you look at it, you can't tell. Thi sis a resin model of this Clippard which I primed grey and painted black. At first, I thought I messed up by painting the threads black. I then used some paint stripper which gave it a dirty look. I sprayed the threads (which are removable) with metallic paint and then brushed it with wood stain. This gave the threads an oily used look which makes it look a dirty gold color. The silver top and ring above the decal was applied with a plate mail paint for miniatures. The brush I used was small enough that you cannot see brush strokes on this band. I will be taking a dark wash to the cap do darken up the recessed parts a bit. The decal itself is not truly black as you can see some banding on it but you cannot see this with your eyes. I was only able to see this after I blew up the image up close.

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My extension lever is passed through the wand box and into the dial piece on the side of the want with the heatsink. It is tight enough in the box that the level is movable but it will not move on its own.

I'm still struggling to find a spot for the wand board in the main box. I was considering mounting on sintra but that will eat up more space. So I am testing gummy fun-tac to see if the board will move at all. I did place the board on spacers that have posts on them so I may be able to place those posts in the fun-tac to hold it in place.

I started working on the wand graph bezel decal that was supplied by Spongeface. After much deliberation, I decided to lay the lenticular piece directly to the window tint instead of trying to trim it first. This allowed me to not have to be exact as I can then trim the tint exactly to the size of the lenticular piece. I'm waiting for this to dry which will give me time to find a decal film to apply when I'm finished. I haven't taken any pictures of this as a result of being so focused on placing it properly to not make any mistakes.

The next part will be to add the decal and mount it in the wand. After which I will apply all lighting and light covers to their appropriate positions.

If anyone sees something that I'm missing or I have done improperly, please let me know. You all have been a great help so far and it is most appreciated!

More to come....
User avatar
By Mechanized
#4925391
This is epic build and amazingly helpful. I’ve recently just ordered my kit from Ben.

As intimidated as I am, your build is definitely relieving some of the stress, lol.

I appreciate all the info you’ve give so far. Look forward to seeing more.
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By Fitzhume
#4925395
This is epic build and amazingly helpful. I’ve recently just ordered my kit from Ben.

As intimidated as I am, your build is definitely relieving some of the stress, lol.

I appreciate all the info you’ve give so far. Look forward to seeing more.
I'm almost finished I think. Just some little things here and there minus the wand board. As you build it, feel free to get ahold of me anytime and I would be happy to give some guidance. I'm sure there are others here that would be happy to help as well. Ben is a great guy and he will help if you ask. Tonight I put on some stickers and the crank knob. I have a feeling I will be tweaking this think for some time to come as well. Have a great night!
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