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By Stantz 718
Whats Up Board,

Does anyone have information or leads on where to find a vent kit for the pack (n-filter) and wand. A buddy of mine informed me the other day that Jim Fincher may not be interested in making them anymore, and that came from a message that Charles sent him. Is there anyone else who makes vent kits?
By Tommorris22
I keep seeing people show the DIY ones they’ve built and say how easy it is to do. I haven’t been able to find clear instructions or information on how to do it yet.
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User avatar
By Stantz 718
Yeah I wish there was a complete breakdown on how to fabricate it and the items needed.. I am trying to have my N-Filter, and Wand vent. The Finchers kit was a nice package I really hope they continue production in the near future.
By RHansen
I messaged Fincher Tech. a few weeks ago without any response at all, so I imagine he isn't interested in doing any more. I am also in the market for a kit for the pack and already have Spongeface's relay and everything else.

Will be watching this thread as well.
User avatar
By Ectotainment
I can put some instructions together for this. I've made 3 vent systems so far, 2 for my Spirit Packs and one for a hero build I am working on. All the parts are available on Amazon, except for the e-cig components since they are banned. Those I got from an online vape store.

The trickiest part is wiring the e-cig because the air pump hose and power wires both go into the same end. For my hero build I ended up making an adapter so I can easily screw on/off the e-cig to remove, refill and replace. Other than that is really just putting the parts together.

Here is a list of the components:

-E-cig (I used the Ego clearomizer) ... learomizer
-Ego adaptor (optional) ... go-adapter
-Air pump (12v)
-PC fan 50mm (5v)
-12v battery rated for 5amps
-12v to 5v step down regulator rated for 5amps
-12v LED car light (I used 1156 type)
-Light socket (optional - I used 1156 type)
-Air pump hose (I think I used 1/4"/ 6mm OD) ... B0002563MM
-Wire (22 gauge or similar) ... B07G2JWYDW
-PVC pipe (I used 1-1/2" socket coupler)
-3/4"/ 20mm tube (optional - I used this to mount the light socket on to the PC fan inside of the PVC pipe.)

Basic setup/overview:
PC fan attaches to the bottom of the PVC pipe so air blows through the top of the pipe and out the N-filter. Near the base of the PVC pipe you have 2 small holes, one for the smoke and one for the wires to power the LED which is mounted inside the PVC pipe sticking out of the top. The 12v battery, with your pack's relay in line, provides power to the air pump, LED and 5v regulator. The 5v regulator provides power to the ecig and the PC fan. The air pump blows air into the ecig which provides smoke to the PVC pipe.

You'll need a soldering iron to wire the ecig, all the other wiring you can do with connectors.

I can work on drawing up a diagram and take some pictures of my set up.
Last edited by Ectotainment on March 12th, 2020, 5:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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By Stantz 718
Yooooo you are the man !!! Thanks seriously appreciate that post man. Yes photos if possible, thank you ! Are you getting smoke to the wand as well?

Which 3 are the e-cig components? I have a smoke shops all around where I am at I am sure I can source them there.
User avatar
By Ectotainment
The e-cig components are just the e-cig itself and the adapter if you want to make it so you can easily remove the e-cig. I bought 3 or 4 of them, because the heating element inside them will eventually fail and need to be replaced. They were like $2 a piece on the site I bought them from.
User avatar
By Ectotainment
Also, for the liquid you can make your own with distilled water and glycerin, both you should be able to find at a local pharmacy. I forget my exact ratio, but it's probably 60:40 glycerin to distilled water. A drop of vanilla extract will give it a nice smell.
User avatar
By Ectotainment
I think for the wand you would just need a separate e-cig, pump, and fan. I don't think you'd be able to pump smoke from the pack to the wand, it would just take too long to travel that distance.

I'll work on posting some pics and diagrams later this week or over the weekend.
User avatar
By Ectotainment
Here is the diagram which is an exploded view of the system with the wiring also laid out. The red wire represents +12v the orange represents +5v. I tried to show a detailed view of the e-cig adapter. Basically the center contact is also the air inlet so I drilled a hole in the side of the adapter and fed the + wire along the center contact inside the insulating silicone layer. The - wire just gets soldered to the outside, and then the hose gets attached over the 510 thread. The ego screws into the top, you may need to add an extra silicone washer to make it air tight.

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By RJMonette88
I have this built into my pack, which I've had since 2015. My e-cig finally ran out of juice. So I went to refill it tonight after researching how to do so. I filled up the tank with the extra e-liquid I had stored in a box, however my vent isn't putting out any vapor. Has anyone run into any issues like this and did I miss a step somewhere in the refill process?
Thanks guys!
User avatar
By Tasky
RJMonette88 wrote: May 12th, 2020, 7:30 pmI have this built into my pack, which I've had since 2015. My e-cig finally ran out of juice.
Hello chap,
I'm absolutely no expert on proton pack, mods or electronics... but I have been a vaper for about 7 years.

If you've had your vape for that long and only now run out of eliquid, did you change the coil (atomiser) when you refilled it? These things tend to degrade and clog up over time.

If you did, are you still getting the crackle sound of a fresh coil? You might need to switch off the fan to hear it.
Did you prime the coil beforehand?
Do you have a vape mod or something similar with which to test the atomiser?

It's worth noting that some eliquids are conductive, so if you've inadvertently spilled any on the contacts that could need cleaning up before it'll work again.
Alternatively, you may just have a duff coil. They're only intended to last a couple of weeks and are mass-manufactured by machine, so you do sometimes get a DOA one.
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By RJMonette88
This is all really great info. Thank you! I know nothing about e-cigs or vapes, so your wisdom is greatly appreciated! I did not change the coil, so I'm sure that potentially has something to do with it. Any tips on changing the coil?
User avatar
By Tasky
RJMonette88 wrote: May 13th, 2020, 1:32 pm This is all really great info. Thank you! I know nothing about e-cigs or vapes, so your wisdom is greatly appreciated! I did not change the coil, so I'm sure that potentially has something to do with it. Any tips on changing the coil?
Heck, loads.... I'll try not to overload you with too much.

As a quick primer:
Essentially a vape is just a wire coil that heats up when current passes through it, bit like a lightbulb element.
This coil is wrapped in a cotton wick, which soaks up the eliquid like in an oil lamp.
When the coil heats up, it heats the liquid on the wick, vapourising it. When you draw on the e-cig, or in your case pump air through the intake, that vapour billows out the mouthpiece in nice white clouds.

So, that's the fundamentals of how just about every vape works and what's going on with this kit.
There's a bit more to it when you get into things like Sub-Ohming for those ridiculously big clouds, and you do have to be careful not to have too low a resistance on the coils, as you can exceed the maximum continuous discharge current of your battery, with explosive end results. Most reputable coils have their resistance clearly stated (usually printed right on them) and there are plenty of online "vape calculators" that help you figure out the maximum safe voltage or wattage for that coil.

One major component of eliquid is Vegetable Glycerine and it's this part that produces the clouds. The higher the VG content, the thicker the clouds (and the more smoke alarms you'll upset! :D ). VG is an extract from things like soybean and coconut, and is a thick, syrupy, sweet liquid. Because the coil is actually touching the soaked wick, continually heating VG leads to a build-up of 'burnt sugar' gack on the coil, which inhibits the wicking process and eventually your coil will burn out. This is why it needs replacing after a time. How often depends on use.

As for filling... It can depend greatly on which atomiser you have. If you know exactly which one, let me know and I'll look further into it for you.

However, looking at the diagram posted above, that one looks like a standard Clearomiser. I heard Kanger T2 mentioned somewhere...
That's pretty easy, but best shown in a video (there are loads):

Tip 1: Wait about 10 minutes after filling, to let the wick (strings) saturate and soak the coil, or you could risk burning the atomiser out. At best, that will make your vented vapour smell like burnt cotton. At worst, you burn the actual coil wire and it breaks.

Tip 2: Some similar models of Clearomiser by other brands are filled from the bottom. Make sure you put the liquid between the coil and the inside of the clear tank.
The video above shows a glass dropper, but you might want to make use of a unicorn bottle with a needle nosed tip (they only cost 50p or so) instead.

Tip 2a: Do NOT put the liquid down the central tube or you'll find it leaking straight out and into your hand... and it's an icky sticky mess to clean up. Think Venkman after sampling the ectoplasmic residue off the library drawers... but worse!!
Speaking of which, most models of atomiser do NOT like being upside down or even laid flat for several hours, and can leak their entire tank out the end.

Tip 3: VG is a thick liquid. If your mixture is too thick, it won't wick properly and your wick will burn. Too thin and it will leak.
For something like the Kanger I would normally suggest no thicker than 50% VG, but that is usually mixed with 50% PG (Propylene Glycol). You can buy 50:50 VG/PG unflavoured and nicotine free eliquid easy enough, but a small number of people are sensitive to PG.
There's no real need for PG in this kit, as you're not vaping on it, but too much water can upset the balance due to its lower boiling point. Try around 40:60 VG-water and spend some time experimenting with just the kit uninstalled.
Another alternative is 25:75 ratio of VG to Propanediol.

Tip 3a: When mixing your own, it's often easier to do it by weight than volume.

Bonus DVD tip: I haven't seen exactly how these vent kits look when assembled, but you'll want as much air as possible to be pumped directly into the airflow of the e-cig. You'll get better clouds that way and it will help keep your coil cool, increasing longevity.
Some atomisers have the intake up the centre, others have it on the side somewhere. A few even have it up top.
UK vape tanks/atomisers are limited by law to 2ml capacity, but other countries allow more.

Blimey... Sorry, got a bit carried away there. :)
Hopefully this has been of some use to you and anyone else reading this. I'll do my best to answer any further questions anyone might have.
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By RJMonette88
WOW! Your response is fantastic! I feel likeI learned tons already! Thank you for sharing all of that, and the video. The e-cig in the video is indeed the one I have. I'll try experimenting with this, guided by your tips, and I'll keep you posted on my progress as it unfolds. Thank you so very much for your really thorough help!
User avatar
By Tasky
No problem. I quite enjoy geeking out about this sort of thing.

I get why people chose that Kanger tank, but in just my own opinion there are better atomiser tanks to use - Ones that have the airflow intake on the side for starters, which might avoid the issue of fitting the pump hose in close proximity to the contacts on the 510 connector. You might even be able to eliminate either the pump or the fan (but never both), depending on your choice of tank.
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By Tasky

Most vape devices automatically limit the 'firing' time to 10 seconds. This is partly to stop the coil from vapourising all the liquid on the wick, which would result in a dry burn and give the liquid a few moments to re-soak the wick... but you can also set the wick itself on fire if you dry-burn it!!
It's also to stop the coil itself from burning out, from overstressing your battery and from putting too high a continuous discharge on it (remember the explosive result I mentioned above?).

I don't know what circuits people are using to control the voltage and duration going into these e-cigs, but make sure they're at safe voltages for your chosen batteries and limit the firing time, as well as allowing a good 20 seconds to re-wick before you next 'vent' your pack. ;)

Here's a simple calculator: ... -a/292.htm
And here's an insanely in-depth one, for those that like the geeky details:
Last edited by Tasky on May 14th, 2020, 1:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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User avatar
By Tasky
Having gone through all that, I have to say that when I've seen this venting effect in person, it looks freakin' awesome!!!

If I ever do a pack build of my own, I'll want this!

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