User avatar
By tk1495
#4954665
Ok so getting a head start on all of this.

Ordered my BOK kit (I know there is gonna be a wait)
Have my alice frame.
Ordered and received my Ninja tunes kit

Looking for help in
1 what type of speaker to get for the Ninja tunes kit
2 those that have built the BOK kit, can smoke be easily added to the N filter or does that part need replaced?

With whatever wait I have to go through for the BOK pack, I would like to be prepared when it shows to move on it.

Thanks again in advance
Bootlegger137 liked this
By tobycj
#4954724
You can add a smoke kit fine, but you'll need to cut a hole in the shell underneath the n-filter. I'd recommend Cory at CS Prop Shop, who does a great kit that works with ninjatunes.
User avatar
By tk1495
#4954731
tobycj wrote: August 29th, 2021, 6:39 pm I'd recommend Cory at CS Prop Shop, who does a great kit that works with ninjatunes.
Just recently found their facebook page and have been scoping it out. Thanks for the recommendation!!
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User avatar
By tk1495
#4972378
After a bit of a wait, I finally received my BOK kit!

Great KIT and I am glad I waited on it. Ben never failed to answer me the whole time when I asked him a question.

After unpacking it and sorting the wand from the pack and the trap parts, I took stock of what I would like to buy yet before I actually get started building.

I had bought a Ninja tunes electronics kit shortly after I ordered my kit so I dusted that off and brought it out to my build area. I had also received a CS prop shop smoke kit and flash that I also gathered up.

Looking at the resin pieces, while good quality, I decided to order a real clippard 701 and 331. I also ordered 1 Dale ph25, 1 Pacific 15w, and 1 Dale Rh50 with the oval logo.

I ordered a couple more aluminum pieces as I just think they will look better on the pack/wand. The shock mount, heat sink and gun ring.

I have a 64 gig flash drive about 1/4 of the way filled to print reference files and pictures at work (nice quality laser printers)

Still need to decide on a speaker, was recommended the fli but hard to come by here in the states (any recommendations in America?) and I would like to purchase Tacos mounts for the Ninja tunes kit yet.

Have to get some A4 paper to print out the Graeme Peter parts templates for the BOK kit.

Only other thing I have to figure out is the mounting of the motherboard to the Alice frame, I know Ive seen some threads here with the spacers so I have to find them again and hopefully the sizes as I dont think the ones I found before had any sizes of the hardware.

I also bought the Homex texture shortly after I ordered so I think I have to go get a new can which is not a bad thing as I noticed when I was pulling it out that I had bought oil based instead of water based.

Finally, if any central PA ghost busters are on here and read this and you dont mind a local picking your brain as I build, please pm me here.

I am SO HAPPY to be able to move forward with this, I once waited 3 years for a Vader helmet from a maker and it killed any drive for me to complete my Vader costume. This wait was no where near that long.
By tobycj
#4972409
Was it a full year from ordering to get your pack from BoK?! How long from when it was shipped out till you received it?

The Ghostbusters Reference Library will be useful for you if you want reference pictures.

Are you doing a GB1 or GB2 build? If it's GB1 then search "half moon" and that should bring up the thread that discussed the GB1 spacer dimensions.
User avatar
By tk1495
#4972414
I spent last night and today on here printing pics and builds and guides. I have a 5 inch binder almost full of shots.

Took all kinds of info from Canpara's semi-hero thread. Actually copied alot of it to a word doc to put in my binder so I didnt have to have the pc with me while working.

I have both ribbons but think I like the look of the gb1 more so "hockey pucks" it is for me lol.

This place is an AWESOME resource for those just starting to delve into pack building.
tobycj liked this
By tobycj
#4972428
tk1495 wrote: September 6th, 2022, 5:28 pm I spent last night and today on here printing pics and builds and guides. I have a 5 inch binder almost full of shots.

Took all kinds of info from Canpara's semi-hero thread. Actually copied alot of it to a word doc to put in my binder so I didnt have to have the pc with me while working.

I have both ribbons but think I like the look of the gb1 more so "hockey pucks" it is for me lol.

This place is an AWESOME resource for those just starting to delve into pack building.
This thread and this earlier thread have a ton of great info on the GB1 spacers.

Without wanting to assume, but are you aware there are other differences between a GB1 and GB2 pack? Some of the stuff BoK supplies (hardware, v-hook, ribbon cable p-clamp) are more of a GB2 set up, so if accuracy is something you're bothered about you'll want to swap some of those.
User avatar
By tk1495
#4972432
tobycj wrote:Without wanting to assume, but are you aware there are other differences between a GB1 and GB2 pack? Some of the stuff BoK supplies (hardware, v-hook, ribbon cable p-clamp) are more of a GB2 set up, so if accuracy is something you're bothered about you'll want to swap some of those.
I knew of some of the differences, the cable, the crank knob, the alice frame, the padding, the elbow on the ion arm, the clamp but yikes!!!!!!! Looks like there is a ton of other differences, not only between movies but between pack types and users.... Not sure how to decide on a single pack to go with for my first one.

Guess I am gonna go for a hybrid for my first pack.

While Ive dealt with accuracy to the 501st degree in star wars costuming, much like my FX storm trooper, my beginnings here will be for me.
By tobycj
#4972433
Off the top of my head the major changes on the hero packs are:

Ribbon cable
Crank knob
Ribbon cable p-clamp
Screw through the bellows, and spacer between bumper and cyclotron
Alice frame neck padding
Alice frame shoulder straps (custom padded LC1 straps)
Alice frame kidney pad & belt (LC2)
V-hook (Venkman hero only)
Clippard elbow on ion arm (Venkman hero only)
Collar on front of wands didn't have brass spacers
Couple of stickers/labels different
Bumper screws were phillips not socket cap
Shell to mobo bracket screws were phillips not socket cap
Mobo spacers changed

There'll be some more that I've missed I'm sure!

Regarding the bits you know about, the alice frame was still an LC1 on the hero packs, the GB2 semi heroes used an LC2 frame and straps though, which is the common confusion. The clippard elbow on the ion arm was a hex fitting on the GB2 semi heroes and GB2 Venkman hero, but remained a square fitting on the other heroes (apart from the super hero that I think was always a hex fitting?). The v-hook only changed on the semi heroes, and the Venkman hero, the others retained their GB1 v-hooks.

If I think of anything else I'll add to this list though. The GB Reference Library is a fantastic resource though, and if you're on Facebook then the Spengler's 1984 Work Bench group is a fantastic group for accuracy-minded folk, and a ton of great research and discussion goes on there.
User avatar
By tk1495
#4972435
That's an awesome list thank you!!

Yeah, I am in both the spengler work bench group and the reference library. When you posted about the differences, I immediately headed to the reference library and opened all the different pack albums lol.

When I started out researching about a year before I bought my pack I was dead set on a GB1 Venkman, pulled alot of info i had at the time from an RPF thread (before I found this site) then I started to lean toward to the omni. Then I ordered my pack and figured I would decide for sure when I got it. ....

Think the only thing I have to be solid on before I start work is the position of the elbow on the ion arm as I noticed on at least one that the elbow was set back on the ion arm

The Alice pack I bought was a LC1 and bought a strap set off of here. Have both ribbons, have multiple p-clamps, bought so many different sticker sets that I can outfit a football team with warning stickers, plan on buying a "better" crank handle than came with the BOK kit so have some options when I get to the point that I have to decide.

So much floating through my head lol really happy that the kit finally came, will make a great distraction from real life right now.

One thing I am getting ahead of myself on and it has consumed most of my morning today, is hooking the CS prop shop smoke kit to my Ninjatunes kit. Been looking all morning and seen the diagrams that have positive from the battery to the board and from the board to the smoke kit and the negative directly to the smoke kit or vise versa but not understanding if I need a secondary 12v battery or if I make it work off my talentcell somehow lol. Any direction there lol.
By tobycj
#4972443
If you're going for a GB1 hero the clippard elbow was a square one on all the packs apart from the super hero, so that's easy.

There are a few things with the BoK shell you might want to change a bit to improve the accuracy, if you have a look for my build thread on here I covered all the changes I made, so that might be helpful.

Not too sure about the CS smoke kit with Ninjatunes, I'm running it with a gbfans kit, but message Cory on Facebook and I'm sure he can help. You definitely don't need two batteries though.
User avatar
By tk1495
#4972514
connecting the frame to the MB for GB1 is it correct with the rectangle bottom spacers like in this thread viewtopic.php?t=38111&hilit=GohstTarp%2 ... d&start=30 or with round metal spacers?

Seems to be the rubber/block spacers but looking a tthe pack pics in the ref library can see round metal spacers on the ones Ive looked at.
By tobycj
#4972522
GB1 is the rectangular blocks. The hero packs were all converted for GB2 so their current set up is with the metal spacers.
User avatar
By tk1495
#4972787
Are here welds around the n-filter where it meets the main pack? Hard to tell in the reference pics. some look like there is something there and others nothing at all.
By tobycj
#4972799
tk1495 wrote: September 21st, 2022, 6:45 pm Are here welds around the n-filter where it meets the main pack? Hard to tell in the reference pics. some look like there is something there and others nothing at all.
Nope. The n-filter was cut to fit round the cyclotron, with a plate tack welded to the bottom of the cut section, and then riveted to the pack. If you look at the photos of the Spengler hero pack when it went up for auction you can see the n-filter has broken off but left that plate behind.
User avatar
By tk1495
#4972836
tobycj wrote: September 22nd, 2022, 8:12 am

Nope. The n-filter was cut to fit round the cyclotron, with a plate tack welded to the bottom of the cut section, and then riveted to the pack. If you look at the photos of the Spengler hero pack when it went up for auction you can see the n-filter has broken off but left that plate behind.
How about the booster tube? looks like there is no opening like is in Ben's packs and the tube just sits on the pack. I have a massive gap so I may add a "weld" even if there isn't one to close the gap.
User avatar
By tk1495
#4972837
Ok so all my old photo sharing sites where for my 501st stuff so took me a while to create another on for this but here is some pics of my pack to this point. I know yall have seen tons of build threads and all the pictures are similar but it will make it easier for my to remember in my old age....

Thanks to Tobycj for the info thus far and cant tell you how much I have relied on Canpara's semi-hero thread for information and hints on my build thus far.

I ordered my BOK a good bit ago and continued to communicate with Ben on almost a weekly basis until the day finally came and i got oneee!!!!

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After unpacking everything and laying it out, I thought about things I might want to replace or change. I scoured the reference library, build threads, and watched the movies to see what I liked about the packs and which one I wanted to build.... I did not know all the variations in the packs not only from movie to movie but from shot to shot in the same movie. In the end I decided I wanted a GB1 pack but not a particular one so this build is not specific to one single pack. My first pack will be a Hybrid tk1495 pack lol. I had already ordered a gb1 ribbon and had that in hand as well. Tobycj pointed out more of the differences between the packs and I set about ordering some needed items.

I had already ordered a Ninjatunes electronics kit and had that in hand for most of my wait. I also printed and made a set of Ecto googles during my wait. After posting them, I was asked about them by a really cool person in the GB community and printed 2 more sets and sent them to him and his partner for all they do for the community. Of course he has changed them so much since I sent them to him that they are his own now. For me doing this CS prop shop sent me a flash bulb and smoke kit for my pack. Was an awesome and cool thing for them to do, I was just trying to thank them from a new member of the community.

So I had my thoughts on what I wanted out of this pack and my electronics, smoke and pack now in hand, time to start....

Figured attaching the motherboard to the Alice frame was as best a place as any to start. I had printed out all of Stefan Otto's plans out and put them in a binder so opened it to the correct page and yikes!!!! that is a lot of numbers.

It is hard trying to find a straight edge anywhere on the MB to get measurements off of. Figured the closest I would get was the bottom rectangle and the top so I figured out the middle there and drew a line from the top to the bottom. I measured out from there one both sides to where the holes should be and drew 2 more lines.

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Then I realized drilling on the same side as the mounts would be a pain so I flipped the pack and did it again

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I then did my best to measure how high from the bottom the holes should be and drew a line there. I lined up my frame on the motherboard and traced it out to make sure everything was where I wanted it and used my punch to mark where to drill.

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User avatar
By tk1495
#4972838
With the Motherboard figured out (little did I know how much more I have to do with this lol) I ordered some replacement resistors and actual clippards as well as some metal parts to add to the pack and gun, wand, blaster (what is it actually called)

Most of these items showed up very quickly and I could continue my build.

the Next thing I decided I needed to do is to Drill out all the wholes and tap for the screws so thats what I did, test fitting as I went.

I grabbed Graeme Peter's templates off of facebook and again I went to the forums and copied Canpara's semi-hero thread into a word doc and eliminated everything but his build posts and printed it out and put it in my binder so I could follow it really easy with out having my pc up and running. Every drill and tap size I have taken from his thread.

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User avatar
By tk1495
#4972839
I as I was drilling I got to the Beam line and filler tube and placing them I could not get them to look right so sought out and answer.

In Ben's kit one is longer than the other so no matter how you place them they look off. I guess I could just use my saw and cut them both to the same size but decided int he end to order replacement aluminum ones from the shop here. Was sure surprised how quick they showed up. Ordered them at the beginning of the week and had them in hand on Saturday. No pictures of them yet as I forgot to take any.

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User avatar
By tk1495
#4972841
So with Everything drilled and tapped it is time for texture and paint. (have not drilled the bumper as I am waiting on a spacer and shock mount to decide if I replace the bumper in Ben's kit)

I again copied the texture guide and printed it out to put in my binder. I followed a few threads on what to tape off and ignored a couple of others.....

after taping I sprayed my homex a little at a time until it looked the way I wanted it to.

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and when I got to that point I took the masking tape off and used a whole can of lacquer to harden the homex.

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I forgot to add that the hot water heating your paint worked wonders as did the spray grip which I highly suggest.

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with the pack textures and sealed it is time to prime everything I have at this point. I made sure to wash everything really well to make sure no residue was left and laid everything out.

At this point I want to chime in, in many threads I seen suggestions for using primer filler, I personally dont suggest this, at least for the textured pack. The primer is thick and needs wet sanded to look smooth/finished and it is very difficult on the textured pack. the rest of the parts it worked great and I could wetsand to make it look awesome.

Back to the pics. I laid everything out and primed everything.

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With everything primed I wet sanded everything and prepped to lay some satin black down but before I do that I want to add the wood texture to the slats using a drimel sanding wheel.

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I then laid my first couple coats of satin black on everything

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With this weekend looking nice I will finish with a few more coats of satin black over the pack itself, everything else looks good to me.
User avatar
By tk1495
#4972842
While waiting for this weekend to come I worked on my "weld" technique with milliput

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I also worked on my SMC elbows to get them more like the legris elbows

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So this is where I am at, at this point. So far its been a fun build. I feel I have been rushing through it as it is my first pack but its been fun.
By tobycj
#4972844
tk1495 wrote: September 23rd, 2022, 5:21 am
tobycj wrote: September 22nd, 2022, 8:12 am

Nope. The n-filter was cut to fit round the cyclotron, with a plate tack welded to the bottom of the cut section, and then riveted to the pack. If you look at the photos of the Spengler hero pack when it went up for auction you can see the n-filter has broken off but left that plate behind.
How about the booster tube? looks like there is no opening like is in Ben's packs and the tube just sits on the pack. I have a massive gap so I may add a "weld" even if there isn't one to close the gap.
Some (maybe all at some point) of the packs had what looked like black sealant or caulk, rather than welds to close up any gap. All the welds on the packs were actual real welds between two metal pieces, so intersections like that you need to bear in mind won't have been welded. If you're feeling adventurous you can fill the hole in the pack Ben has cut, and then cut the booster tube to the right angle. Ben's tube is actually too small as well. Have a look at my build thread as I covered all of that there :)
User avatar
By tk1495
#4972903
I got my Tacobelli items and speaker, having this in hand I figured I could work on my Motherboard and get it ready for paint

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Took me a bit to figure out how the kit went together but finally figured it out.

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With them in place and knowing all my spacing for the speaker I started my Grill...... Thank you Bishop for a great design

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I punched every whole with a punch to make sure I had a good starting place. Let me arm rest a bit and I know I miss punched a couple we will see how they turn out.

Started drilling

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OHHHH This will be fun to clean up...

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TWO HOURS LATER........

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THREE HOURS LATER........

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Tried all kind of tools to clean the holes up, used every one of my counter sinks and nothing seemed to help but finally found a tool at harbor freight counter sink and deburring tool. Never used anything like it so I did not know about them.

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It was a little bit of a learning curve but surprisingly the 3 sizes worked with what I drilled with. and finally cleaned them up.

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and prime... coated it with satin black today.

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User avatar
By tk1495
#4972904
With my Motherboard coated with Satin Black and in my garage drying I decided to start putting the pack together.
Having pre-drilled everything made this a Breeze.

Volume control and one of my dogs hairs

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I bought replacement aluminum filler and beam line tubes and they look good

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Ive seen both silver and brass washers on the booster tube and frame so I have both but but the brass on for now.

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Ion arm with real resistors and converted SMC elbows

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Clippard 331 and straights

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HGA and v hook

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Glued the smoke kit in and test fit the N-Filter to make sure they fit well together I did not push the N-Filter on as I still have to add mesh and I would like to add reflective tape.

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Added the Injectors and crank knob (will control my volume)

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Oh forgot have my spangler plate as well

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Once the paint dries and cures on the MB will get everything added to that and keep moving forward.
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User avatar
By tk1495
#4972905
I did run into one big issue that has me buggin out.

With the spacer on the bumper, the arms do not reach the bottom of the body. It seems to miss it by the width of the spacer. Do I get rid of the spacer OR look at a new Bumper? I am waiting for a replacement aluminum shock mount as I was not to sure about the resin one that came with the kit so I have time.
By tobycj
#4972931
tk1495 wrote: September 25th, 2022, 7:41 pm I did run into one big issue that has me buggin out.

With the spacer on the bumper, the arms do not reach the bottom of the body. It seems to miss it by the width of the spacer. Do I get rid of the spacer OR look at a new Bumper? I am waiting for a replacement aluminum shock mount as I was not to sure about the resin one that came with the kit so I have time.
I had the same, the BoK bumper arms are too short. I swapped mine for a gbfans bumper and that was much better.
User avatar
By tk1495
#4972932
tobycj wrote: September 26th, 2022, 5:03 pm
I had the same, the BoK bumper arms are too short. I swapped mine for a gbfans bumper and that was much better.
Cool ordered!

Of course right after I ordered I seen Mack factories…. Man they look sweet. How is Mack factory for shipping? Was looking at the bellows there as well
User avatar
By tk1495
#4972972
Sat down to start the wand build but had no "guidance" or direction for and in my search for information I came to realize many people have replaced or chose different wands when building a BOK kit it, so started to research possible other wands and ended up ordering a Throwing chicken kit.

Still plan to build my BOK one and hopefully I can document it a good bit to help future builds but going to take my time on it now as it will not be my main one.

So at this point, waiting on the new bumper from gbfans, waiting on metal bits from BOK including the new shock mount, waiting on TC kit.

This weekend I had planned on getting my MB in order as the paint should have been cured enough that is will not just rub off, but putting the grommet in the hole for my Spengler plate took paint off. Thinking I might try coating it with lacquer like I did the shell after I did the texture, that seemed to make everything super fixed but dont want to make it to difficult to "weather" it later
By tobycj
#4972979
tk1495 wrote: September 26th, 2022, 5:15 pm
tobycj wrote: September 26th, 2022, 5:03 pm
I had the same, the BoK bumper arms are too short. I swapped mine for a gbfans bumper and that was much better.
Cool ordered!

Of course right after I ordered I seen Mack factories…. Man they look sweet. How is Mack factory for shipping? Was looking at the bellows there as well
Mack's is fine for shipping, prices will be comparable to gbfans I think. His bellows are great, I have them on my pack.

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