[TriBumperTroglodyte]

I've been having a lot of issues with my pack hose lately. For context, I'm using a GPStar kit with my pack, and Neutrik connectors for the pack and wand sides of the hose. All GPStar says for securing the hose to the loom is to use "lots of electrical tape". The problem is that 1, when I try to sit the pack upright on the ground, the tape on the Pack-end of the hose gets bent really hard, causing it to become undone. And 2, for the wand-end, that comes undone when I've got the wand holstered on its V-hook. I've had to redo the tape at least 4 times because of these things.

So yeah. I'm looking for any alternatives to electrical tape for securing my hose. While my pack is a Frozen Empire HASP Pack, I never opted to add a gas-mask hose, nor use silver tape on the wand-end, as I didn't like how either looked, but now I'm slightly more opened to them, so long as it keeps the loom itself from coming undone.

Any ideas?

[Thatcrazysquidguy]

Not surprised electrical tape wasn’t working, every time I’ve tried to use electrical tape it has had very poor adhesion and longevity.

I would recommend adding a mechanical bond between the hose and the connector. Perhaps a small ziptie followed by a large heat shrink sleeve.

From there, you could add some tape just for aesthetics without having to rely on it for the bond. It looks like they used some kind of fabric tape for the screen used props, maybe gaffer or hockey tape.



Hope this helps!

[jonogunn]

Not surprised electrical tape wasn’t working, every time I’ve tried to use electrical tape it has had very poor adhesion and longevity.

I would recommend adding a mechanical bond between the hose and the connector. Perhaps a small ziptie followed by a large heat shrink sleeve.

From there, you could add some tape just for aesthetics without having to rely on it for the bond. It looks like they used some kind of fabric tape for the screen used props, maybe gaffer or hockey tape.



Hope this helps!

How do you avoid deforming the hose itself when applying heat to the heatshrink?

[TriBumperTroglodyte]

That sounds like a really good idea! I never thought about using zipties for the connection until now, though I was considering using heat shrink material for it, as I saw that's how ToolsAndTalent props does their hoses. Only thing is that I've only got one piece of it that was a leftover from my GPStar Kit, so I'd need to get some more. Another thing is that I never really liked the look of the screen-used HASP hoses and their extra additions. I wish they just had split-loom, Neutrik connectors, and nothing else. So yeah, I'm not sure I'd want to cover up the heat shrink/ziptipes with that tape (sidenote, I didn't know until now that it was fabric tape. I assumed for the longest time that it was just duct tape or something, but thanks for informing me I guess). Truth be told, I'm not the biggest fan of the electrical tape look either. I'd prefer the cleanest look of the connection between the loom and the Neutriks, just like the GB1-2 Packs (I know those didn't use Neutriks, but I think you get the idea).

[TriBumperTroglodyte]

How do you avoid deforming the hose itself when applying heat to the heatshrink?

I don't know, Jono, but I just need something that works better than just taping the connectors to the hose. I love the GPStar system, but that's one of my few, but biggest problems with it.

[Thatcrazysquidguy]

Truth be told, I'm not the biggest fan of the electrical tape look either. I'd prefer the cleanest look of the connection between the loom and the Neutriks, just like the GB1-2 Packs (I know those didn't use Neutriks, but I think you get the idea).

Agreed. The functionality of the neutriks is nice, a balance between that and the aesthetic of the OG packs would be a super solid option.

How do you avoid deforming the hose itself when applying heat to the heatshrink?

I would apply the heat in very light passes around the shrink tubing until it is set.

[jonogunn]

Truth be told, I'm not the biggest fan of the electrical tape look either. I'd prefer the cleanest look of the connection between the loom and the Neutriks, just like the GB1-2 Packs (I know those didn't use Neutriks, but I think you get the idea).

Agreed. The functionality of the neutriks is nice, a balance between that and the aesthetic of the OG packs would be a super solid option.

I showed it in my gpstar 2 DIY video but I went with this guy's option and applied it not just to my wand but my pack hose side as well. Not as "quick" to disconnect as you have to unscrew it vs pressing a latch but now I have an 84 looking pack while still able to disconnect the parts!

https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/1689748 ... od-digital

How do you avoid deforming the hose itself when applying heat to the heatshrink?

I would apply the heat in very light passes around the shrink tubing until it is set.

Ah gotcha thanks!

[prodestrian]

This is only marginally relevant to the topic (but it might be of interest to a few here), I've been wanting something similar for my 84 pack in-progress build. One of my big gripes with my current pack is that the wand isn't detachable, which is a real headache for transport. And my new pack will have a choice between the Mack's aluminium wand and a 3D printed wand, depending on the event (If I'm doing a parade or wearing the pack for a long period, or worried about the thrower getting bumped I'd want the lightweight printed wand).

So I've come up with a printed block to hold a GX12 4-pin aviation connector socket (my wand only needs 4 wires but they do come with more pins).
There's a printed tube with a lock mechanism which fits inside the hose loom, and it also acts as a stopper to prevent the aviation screw connector from being pulled inside the hose.
To attach, you plug in the aviation connector into the socket and screw it in place, then push the hose over it and twist to lock it.

Here's the 3D models (the grey piece is the Q-Pack 84-style hose mount, unmodified):



I designed it so these parts aren't attached to the shell, because I'm hoping to have all of my electronics mounted to the motherboard. But I have the option of changing that approach if I want/need to.

Here's how the test print looks disconnected:


And the aviation connector plugged in:


And finally, the loom pushed/twisted to lock it in place, with everything hidden away:


There's still a few concerns I have about this solution, mainly that I don't know how strong the printed parts will be. So I'm still brainstorming ideas and tinkering with prototypes for now.

Another solution might be to flip the connectors around, so the plug is inside the shell and the socket on the end of the hose loom. It's a little more finicky that way but the socket is a lot shorter than the plug, so the 3D printed part in the hose loom could be reduced in size quite a bit (which means there's less risk of damage). Or maybe there's another type of connector out there which I could try instead.

Anyway I'm open to suggestions, and I'm happy to share my 3D files if they're of use to anyone.

[TriBumperTroglodyte]

Agreed. The functionality of the neutriks is nice, a balance between that and the aesthetic of the OG packs would be a super solid option.

I showed it in my gpstar 2 DIY video but I went with this guy's option and applied it not just to my wand but my pack hose side as well. Not as "quick" to disconnect as you have to unscrew it vs pressing a latch but now I have an 84 looking pack while still able to disconnect the parts!

https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/1689748 ... od-digital

I wouldn't want to use that for mine. I still want the look of the Neutriks on my pack, both because I like it, and because it's Frozen Empire accurate.

[TriBumperTroglodyte]

Update: So I tried using a ziptie to hold my loom to the Wand Neutrik, at least for the moment. I ordered some heat shrink tubing, but it's probably gonna be a while before it arrives. It doesn't hold the greatest, but at least it's easily fixable. My question though is how exactly do I know this will work? I mean, it just feels like there's still the risk of the heat shrink tubing coming loose just like the electrical tape, unless the former has some sort of adhesive on the inside of it that holds it in place. I've never really worked with the stuff, so I wouldn't know.

[Thatcrazysquidguy]

My question though is how exactly do I know this will work?

In my experience, heat shrink provides a strong enough reinforcement to keep connections protected and in place. Adhesive-lined heat shrink is also an option that is available, or you could try adding an adhesive before you heat-shrink the sleeve.

Also in my experience, I never really know if something will work until I’ve experimented with it for myself. A lot of what I’ve learned is the result of trying different techniques and learning for myself what works best. I rarely, if ever, come to a perfect solution on the very first try. You may need to tinker and experiment a bit in order to come to a solution that is best for your project.

[TriBumperTroglodyte]

I'm getting my tubing from ToolsAndTalent props, as he has the right size I need to get it over my Neutriks. I don't know if it is or isn't adhesive type, so yeah. And believe me, I've done plenty of experimenting with my pack. I just don't want to do stuff that could result in unnecessary/costly damage to the thing, you know?

[Thatcrazysquidguy]

Absolutely. Some hard but valuable lessons have been learned in the past on what not to do.