Hey guys...I'm kind of bummed that I haven't posted any updates on this. It's more-so on my Facebook since image hosting is not needed.
Anyway, I wanted to at least post a video of where I'm at with this thing and give some "slight" (LOL) details...
Here's what I've done thus far:
-Trap casing and cartridge are made from MDF as seen in posts above. People tell you NOT to do this but I did: I sealed the MDF with wood glue; especially the edges. I thinned the wood glue with a tiny bit of water for smooth application. It worked very well for me!
-The cartridge doors are made from MDF with styrene inner offset lockers.
-The inner end pieces for the cartridge are made from styrene.
-The battery compartment and bargraph display are made from styrene.
-The handle, handle neck, and bargraph display ears are made from wood dowels (round and square). I really want to upgrade the handle to aluminum though.
-Everything is mostly held in by wood glue or super glue. There are exceptions with screws.
-The plating on the sides and front are aluminum. I cut them all by myself (lol), and they're crooked as a moving snake.
-The red side rods are from Eric Gunther. LOVE THEM!
-The front round knobs are real, as are the flat mixer knobs (although they're far from accurate). The bottom round knob hides the charging port for the smoking unit battery (courtesy of the Fincher team).
-Both side knobs are nick-a-tron resin until I can gather/build/modify the real ones. So far, all real ones that I have found have been oversized. The resistor side knob is attached to a potentiometer supplied by the Fincher team. I have a hook-up for a fan but decided to go with forced instead (thanks Riggs, ol boy!).
-The lights are Heavy Props and tied into the 11.1v li-ion battery with the smoking unit. In doing this, I had to jump the switch on the board so it's always "on". After consulting with Kris (Heavy Props/Crix), the board can handle the 11.1v battery. All that happens is the lighting speeds up; at which I really dig!
-The battery compartment houses the smoking motor. I also made an aluminum bracket for the foster to connect to so I can hold the trap "by the tail". The foster also locks in the battery compartment: DOUBLE WHAMMY!
-Using a small piece of frosted lexan for the window under the doors. This has a hole in which a tube from the smoking unit protrudes.
-I used the same paint as my pack, using the same buffing techniques.
-Stickers/dry rubs are from GBFans. I'm still trying to find a "fire" sticker for the top of the battery compartment.
-The skate bearings are courtesy of riggs45 (Joe)....thanks dude! They're attached via square wooden dowels.
-GB1 "Venkman" holster courtesy of momeraths24 (Franchesky)....LOVE IT!!!
I am currently working on the pedal. Via Hijacker (Bart), he has helped me out with not only this, but with some trap problems/questions/sourcing.
-The boxed relay is courtesy of Hoot (Matt)...thanks dude!
-Using a red lamp indicator from Radio Shack for now.
-The pedal plate is MDF and sealed with wood glue.
-The pedal is aluminum from the shop on here (side boxes are from the shop also). The sides have been trimmed and sanded as per reference photos.
-An acorn nut is inserted just under the front of the pedal.
-Bellows is cut to the right size, but I cannot figure out the best course to attaching it
Current to-do list:Trap
-Add yellow striping on doors (courtesy of riggs45).
-Install LED white lighting inside the cartridge. A trigger switch will be used via consorting with Shawn Swift.
-Add "fire" label to the top of the battery compartment.Pedal
-Install the pedal hinge.
-Paint the pedal assembly.
-Plumb the fosters using rubber black hose and braided wire.
-Add dry rubs and stickers.
-Anchor the bellows (still no clue on how though).
-Anchor the tubing.
-Add bottom wear feet.
-Wire the red indicator for static lighting.