User avatar
By countspatula
Supporting Member
#4859992
My article on the guts of the Trap is now up:
http://www.tested.com/tech/3d-printing/ ... host-trap/

We'll be posting one last video next week.

I have to finish up a project for next month, so the electronics guide is on hold for a bit, but will get done. I also may be able to offer some printed parts as I'm going to have some more printers in house. Will post in classified if and when the time comes.
User avatar
By thebigone2087
#4860130
I must say, the main assembly is a lot easier than I thought it was.
User avatar
By thebigone2087
#4860887
So here is a question I haven't seen answered... What AWG wire did you use to wire everything up?mYou mentioned th silicone wire from adafruit and I see it's available in a few sizes.
User avatar
By Tyrael
#4860934
Completely forgot to take more pics of the finished trap before giving it to the El Paso Ghostbusters as thanks for including me for events for the past couple years, but the thing cleans up extremely well and assembles like a dream. I can't wait to make more!
Image

EDIT: Yeah, the side panels are accidentally reversed from where they should be. By the time I realized, everything was already glued down. :walterpeck:
User avatar
By lannyjack
#4863896
Is there a huge difference between the 300 and 100 micron resolution for ABS? I am doing a quote online for the trap only, and its $80 more for 100 microns. With 300, will the print lines just stand out more and require more sanding?

Also - Sean, thank you for making this available to the community. What an awesome gift!
By spanakadakawaka
#4871959
I can potentially do a run of aluminum plating specifically for this 3D printed trap. I would need to have a lot of people committed though since I would have to order for around 100 traps worth.

Hey AJ, are there still any potential plans for doing a plate run for these? I'd be in for a set.
By mcbenzi_ghost
#4872312
I can potentially do a run of aluminum plating specifically for this 3D printed trap. I would need to have a lot of people committed though since I would have to order for around 100 traps worth.

Hey AJ, are there still any potential plans for doing a plate run for these? I'd be in for a set.
Me too!
User avatar
By thebigone2087
#4874153
It might depend on how it's printed. My first one I feel like was dead one, but the second one was SLIGHTLY wider gap toward the bag than the front. It's really minor, at least to me it is.
User avatar
By countspatula
Supporting Member
#4874261
I did a lot of research before placing the door gap slightly off-center. Stefan's blueprints has it that way and the more I looked at reference pictures I believe that the hero traps are slightly off center, but it's tough getting an angle that shows it. What sealed it for me was they would be trying to get these done as quickly as possible so each side was probably cut identically except for the overlap in the middle. If the doors were cut identically, this would make the gap slightly off-center like I made it.

Having said that, I fully appreciate wanting it perfectly centered - so I uploaded a modded version with a perfect center line. I also added completely smooth versions without the hazard tape guidelines. New files are:

top_door_smooth_LT.stl (and RT) - off-center gap, no tape guidelines
top_door_centered_LT.stl (and RT) - gap right down the center with tape guidelines
top_door_centered_smooth_LT.stl (and RT) - centered gap, no tape guidelines

Download here:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1394492

I'm also working on the electronics guide right now, work and life has gotten in the way!
Tyrael, GohstTarp, thebigone2087 and 1 others liked this
By Ryusui
#4874506
I did a lot of research before placing the door gap slightly off-center. Stefan's blueprints has it that way and the more I looked at reference pictures I believe that the hero traps are slightly off center, but it's tough getting an angle that shows it. What sealed it for me was they would be trying to get these done as quickly as possible so each side was probably cut identically except for the overlap in the middle. If the doors were cut identically, this would make the gap slightly off-center like I made it.

Having said that, I fully appreciate wanting it perfectly centered - so I uploaded a modded version with a perfect center line. I also added completely smooth versions without the hazard tape guidelines. New files are:

top_door_smooth_LT.stl (and RT) - off-center gap, no tape guidelines
top_door_centered_LT.stl (and RT) - gap right down the center with tape guidelines
top_door_centered_smooth_LT.stl (and RT) - centered gap, no tape guidelines

Download here:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1394492

I'm also working on the electronics guide right now, work and life has gotten in the way!
Jeez! Such awesome dedication to this! Thanks for the continued help and support!
User avatar
By LandoSystem
#4875747
I'm almost done with mine. I have a basic Jupiter Electronics light kit on the way and a I've had a gbfans trap relay on order for 2 weeks.
I have a Fincher Tech smoke kit inside and an mp3 player inside playing some trapped ghost sounds from the video game.
By propmaster2000
#4885429
Hi countspatula,
I am a bit late to the party, but find this thread interesting.
I think if I were to build another Ghostbusters prop this would be the one.

I don't know if this thread is still active, but I have a question.
I see from the various videos I have watched of the traps, that there is a light in the foot pedal
that seems to be connected to the same circuit as the power light on the main trap body.
When the light flashes on the trap, so does the light on the foot pedal.
Is the light on your pedal wired directly to the main light on the trap itself?
If you are using only a 2 wire connection to the trap from the pedal to active the electronics,
how is the light able to be a separate circuit?
Also, is the relay on the foot pedal used at all in the circuit or just for looks to enhance the props
details?

Just wondering... :^)
By propmaster2000
#4885513
Thanks countspatula for the reply.

Here is a video showing how it is possible to add a light to the foot pedal and still use the foot switch and the two connecting wires to activate the Trap functions normally without the use of a microcontroller:
Just for reference.

Video 1
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v5ZKbT7IqMs

Video 2
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nEvSjq8dXDQ

How it works:
The video shows a 1K resistor in series with the LED and a 470 ohm resistor in series with the normally open switch.
The 470 ohm and switch are in parallel with the 1k resistor.

If the 5v relay has two sets of contacts DPDT, one set of contacts can be used to Latch the relay
ON after the pedal is pushed, while the other set activates the internal SFX.
Then after a delay of a second or so, the "latch" can be cleared until the next time the foot switch
is pressed. The latch will also work if the signal to the LED causes it to flash.

As soon as the relay gets the signal from the foot switch to activate, it will latch for a second, then go back to flashing.

Just thought this might be of some interest to you :^)

propmaster2000
.
User avatar
By countspatula
Supporting Member
#4885532
Thanks for those vids. I think the ultimate goal is to have the pedal light come on and blink in conjunction with the trap light which complicates matters.
Thanks countspatula for the reply.

Here is a video showing how it is possible to add a light to the foot pedal and still use the foot switch and the two connecting wires to activate the Trap functions normally without the use of a microcontroller:
Just for reference.

Video 1
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v5ZKbT7IqMs

Video 2
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nEvSjq8dXDQ

How it works:
The video shows a 1K resistor in series with the LED and a 470 ohm resistor in series with the normally open switch.
The 470 ohm and switch are in parallel with the 1k resistor.

If the 5v relay has two sets of contacts DPDT, one set of contacts can be used to Latch the relay
ON after the pedal is pushed, while the other set activates the internal SFX.
Then after a delay of a second or so, the "latch" can be cleared until the next time the foot switch
is pressed. The latch will also work if the signal to the LED causes it to flash.

As soon as the relay gets the signal from the foot switch to activate, it will latch for a second, then go back to flashing.

Just thought this might be of some interest to you :^)

propmaster2000
.
By propmaster2000
#4885542
Hi countspatula ,
Thanks for your response.
This new video is showing that it is possible to have a flashing LED (light) in the trap as well
as one in the remote foot switch box connected by only two wires.

Each time the foot switch is pressed, it will activate the FX in the main trap unit.
There are two sets of contacts coming off a small relay in my circuit that will activate the FX
as did the switch by itself.
It only takes a few discrete components to make it work (resistors, transistors and relay.)
VIDEO LINK:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JxmWwUXXqEA

Thanks for watching.
propmaster2000

.
User avatar
By RamaSha007
#4887095
Hi. Long time listener, first time caller....


I have a question about the magnets. In the Print guide that comes with the files it says you need 3/16 x 1/8 dia magnets, but the deluxe assembly instructions from the site say you need 1/8 X 3/16 dia magnets. So which one is correct?


I could just measure the prints, but they are at work (I work for the local library and have access to the 3d printers there.) so I don't have them in hand yet.

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