#4948416
Hello!

Here's the ghost trap part of my Ghostbusters costume build.

I wasn't sure how I wanted to approach any of the props for this build but of course I want a hero version of everything, eventually. I've been channeling my Ghostbusters fandom into my daughter and its always great to have the props and toys from the films to make playtime that much more immersive. I've used the Spirit store props as a base foundation for prop expectation, but am finding that modifying these toys is more work than I want to do. They're great props as is to be honest. A repaint and it'll look great for photos.

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I was hoping to modify this prop but after seeing it in person, I've decided to leave it as is for reference and playtime. Its a solid toy for what it is. The handle mechanism is easy to operate and the simple belt clip does the job. Doubles as a toy carrying case. A repaint is all this requires!

I did, however, look into the pedal and found Charlesworth Dynamics on Etsy to be a treasure trove of goodies meticulously thought out and organized. GBfans was out of most parts so I figured a pedal from a single maker wouldn't affect the construction of the trap itself wether it be modified or 3D printed. https://www.etsy.com/shop/CharlesworthD ... =564901150

I've decided to print his trap in addition to the pedal. You can find his 3D print collection here: https://www.thingiverse.com/countspatula/designs

Somewhere in this photo is a pedal.
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I've printed up a PLA pedal base, but I'm thinking I'd like aluminum, plated at least. If the bottom of the pedal is going to face outward when hanging, I'd want to dress it up some how? Metal gives it pizzazz I guess. I'll have to figure that out, but seems like an easy swap. In this photo are CD's kits which include the deluxe and standard parts for pedal completion. I still need to study how it's constructed, and figure out where to drill holes for assembly. This should be a fun build and with 95% actual parts, not printed!

I'm printing out the trap parts now and hardware assembly parts are on the way. Huzzah. This project has been a long time coming. I can't wait to hold this piece of equipment!
#4948417
I'm also interested in building a trap with an RC car, but have no idea where to begin. I may have to look around at other WIPs but I've seen someone build this already. Would love to build this while I wait for Proton Pack construction.
#4948424
Sea_Marshall wrote: April 20th, 2021, 10:27 pm I've printed up a PLA pedal base, but I'm thinking I'd like aluminum, plated at least. If the bottom of the pedal is going to face outward when hanging, I'd want to dress it up some how? Metal gives it pizzazz I guess. I'll have to figure that out, but seems like an easy swap. In this photo are CD's kits which include the deluxe and standard parts for pedal completion. I still need to study how it's constructed, and figure out where to drill holes for assembly. This should be a fun build and with 95% actual parts, not printed!
Have a look at mburkit's pedal build thread here for some ideas on a hero pedal. The real ones were made of wood, with an aluminum sheet on the underside, with tap washers as feet, and an aluminium strip round the front on the pedal as a "bumper" of sorts.
#4948425
tobycj wrote: April 21st, 2021, 2:06 am
Have a look at mburkit's pedal build thread here for some ideas on a hero pedal. The real ones were made of wood, with an aluminum sheet on the underside, with tap washers as feet, and an aluminium strip round the front on the pedal as a "bumper" of sorts.
Wow, thanks! This actually gave me the idea to just trace the 3D printed base to wood. Huzzah. Upgrades! There might be more cutting and machining than I anticipated doing. The files I've printed so far are great.
tobycj liked this
#4948548
Somewhere in this photo is a ghost trap.
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I didn't get a lot of in progress photos of the build because the documents, parts, and files provided by Charlesworth Dynamics does an outstanding job of laying out the process. My goal here then, is to share thoughts and feedback on the build. I think the hardest part of the build was figuring out which screws are which. I'd do this build again. Probably so I can make the RC car variant. That'll just be outright play time fun. I didn't have an RC car growing up, or a ghost trap. But now I'm going to have an RC Ghost trap! Or, my kids will.

Here's the link to his notes and have a read.
https://opus5.complex88.com/2013/08/instructions.html

This was most of the build for me up to this point:
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Not kidding, the build has been great. I've 3D printed a lot of things and boy, this project was smooth. The pieces fit, the holes were pre-made, and the hardware packages are fantastic to have considering the scarcity and numerous parts that are used in these props. I've gotten the trap frame completed. Now its a matter of surface finishing the panels and shell. I don't have plans to put in light and sound, but it might happen one day as part of the hobby.

My kid asked me if I was building my own ghost trap, to which I responded yes. She brought over the Spirit trap and replied, "Here you can use mine to help make yours." Dawwww. She's a good kid. I can't wait for her to meet Ghostbusters in real life. Here's a side by in progress for size comparison.

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I think the biggest headache of this build was the pedal, and most specifically, the aluminum Hammond Project Box 1590A on the left side. I don't have a vice or a cool hole cutting thing, but I had a center punch and drill. What's cool about the CD build is there are templates for hole placements and measurements. All the work is done, it's just a matter of assembly. I will say though, I'd have preferred a plastic or resin version of the 1590A box. It would have been much easier to handle with limited tools on hand. 3D printed would have also done fine. This was the worst.

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It was handy to know this connection piece sits on top of the pedal base and the box sits flush as well.
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Huzzah, boxes in progress and ribbon cable attached. Red line up. It is worth noting that I had a plastic mallet and was able to tap the connectors and cables shut without need for a vice or other clamp type thing.

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Not included in any of the parts kits is the Legris Banjo fitting. Seems that's a pricey part, so I 3D printed one that came with the files. This will get finished then attached to the left box for one of the pedal cables. The nut on the outside was a hassle and wasn't installed properly because I failed to read an instructional note, but what evs. I took a note.

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Here's a look at progress before I called it quits for the night:
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Last major part is to install the octal relay and socket.Otherwise the Legris thing needs to be installed then some light paint and decals. I took off the pedal and painted it black. Scuffed it up a bit with sand paper for a worn look.

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The pedal base is going to bug me for a while, but I wanted to see what I could get from what I have. I haven't done anything to the base besides screw the parts to it. I really like that the holes are pre-made and everything lines up. But I think I want to have a robust gritty foot pedal. Now that I've got the basics down, I can upgrade the 3D pedal to something like wood, maybe cut a bit of aluminum to wrap and put on the bottom. It'll happen. I just don't want to measure and cut wood and aluminum lol.

That's it for now! Hope to get some paint in this weekend. Waiting on a box with some buttons and dials. The decals are so much fun. Can't wait to see this piece done! Uniform is up next.
#4948622
Made it to this point of the trap: sanding and filling.

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The MT500 Radio was in the mix and that will be added into a Uniform WIP when I fire that up. I typically sand raw prints with 120 grit, filler primer the print, let that sit for a day, then sand that to 220. If I need any additional body work done with print lines i revisit it with bondo, then sand everything to 400 grit. Then base coat black. I'm using a Canyon Black, not flat or matte black. Its got a tint of brown in it, which I like because it kind of ages it a little, visually, then when I weather it, the color are a nice blend. That's me anyway.

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Handle installed. Aluminum! Huzzah.

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More to come. Once this is dried, I can put on the hazard stripes and assemble the body of the trap. Still waiting on some accessories in the mail, but this build (no lights or sound) is getting close to done!
#4948708
I had to sand down the sides of this resistor so it would fit properly in the vector plate. Pretty sure the build instructions mentioned this and something about GB2 resistors plates being larger and not needing any trimming. I used a 100 grit sandpaper and got the job done enough to wedge it in for a snug fit.

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Meanwhile, I had masked off the trap doors and did a pass of yellow I like to use, which is a 'rust yellow' base and a 'golden yellow' top coat, airbrushed over the base black. The files for this trap include two door variants with or without line guidelines. I decided to do with lines thinking I could just gap fill if needed. What ended up happening was a little of both. I gap filled, but also left some of the groves to serve as weathering divots. 3D print lines are gone for the most part.

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A quick moment of reflection in this build, because up to this point, I think the build is basically the same for most builds wether you want FX or not. Now it gets to exterior aesthetics. The CD (Charlesworth Designs) trap is advertised as being in service between GB1 and GB2. I love that idea. The ghost trap has always been an iconic prop of film history to me and until recently, I've never studied it. To be honest, the Real Ghostbusters animated series is more responsible for my fandom than the films alone -- and that trap was close enough to be recognizable, but different, and I feel to the general fan, you can mix and match items so long as it has the silhouette and the hazard stripes. Changing the color, stickers or dials, so long as you have the base form, could be open to interpretation -- which makes this a super fun and flexible prop to personalize.

What I'm getting at is there are differences between GB1 and GB2 and I'm leaning more towards GB1 influences, but there are GB2 things that are cool or convenient at this time pending availability of other parts.

I've noticed the knob here changes between the two films. Not sure which of the two I like, they're both pretty cool. I feel the GB1 knob matches the front trap knobs. And speaking of those front knobs, are those decals in both films or specific to one of them? I didn't do much digging, but I found some images for placement and I figured, why not. I'd like to add my own spin somewhere on the trap in the form of a decal or painting, but haven't decided on anything.

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I'm waiting on the last parts for the left side panel before I finish assembly, and at that time, the pedal parts should be completed as well. A little weathering and its a wrap for a belt hanger. One small detail I've added that goes to flavor is the red acrylic at the front of the trap in the yellow LED slot. Boba Fett's chest LEDs are backed with a red acrylic, so its a nice touch to another iconic character. I plan to incorporate his helmet 'turn signals' or something small like that to the trap aesthetic.

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Almost there! Few weeks on parts.
Last edited by Sea_Marshall on April 28th, 2021, 9:11 am, edited 1 time in total.
cristovalc liked this
#4948714
The resistors were the same in GB1 & 2, it was the vector plate size that changed between them.

The decals on the front were only on the GB2 traps. I *think* the front knobs you have there were only GB2 as well, but possibly retrofitted to a GB1 trap with the red side rods at some point, as there are definitely pics of that configuration.
Sea_Marshall liked this
#4948722
tobycj wrote: April 28th, 2021, 2:08 am The resistors were the same in GB1 & 2, it was the vector plate size that changed between them.

The decals on the front were only on the GB2 traps. I *think* the front knobs you have there were only GB2 as well, but possibly retrofitted to a GB1 trap with the red side rods at some point, as there are definitely pics of that configuration.
Ah, that's it, thanks for the clarification on the vector plate sizes.

I had the nobs on in a different order but then the decals wouldn't line up so I had to move them around -- that's when I discovered the decal and knob inconsistency in my reference photos. I like that there are different variants / models of the traps because it allows a subtle sort of personalization.

Speaking of subtle personalizations: the side rods. Red for GB1 and silver for GB2. I was thinking one orange/yellow and the other yellow (this is a minor color detail from Boba Fett's knee armor being two shades of yellow in the Empire Strikes Back). I imagine there are hardcore screen accuracy prop makers within the ghostbusters community and I hope to make a hero trap variant by the 2nd or 3rd attempt, haha.

And decals! There seem to be spares on the sheets. Do folks typically stick to what's on screen for placement? Is decal placement scrutinized? I guess it depends on who you'd want to impress. I'm sure there's a sticker placement sheet somewhere if I dig deep enough.
By tobycj
#4948724
There are some pics where the GB1 side rods look yellow, but unclear if that's lighting/film stock making it look that way.

If you take a look at damster117's build thread in here he's doing an AMAZING GB1 hero trap build. My build was only hero-ish :)

If you're using Mack's Factory dry rubs he includes two sets for most stuff, so there should be spares. Ultimately unless you're trying to replicate a specific prop I wouldn't worry *too* much about decal placement. These things were thrown together in quite short timescales, so the prop makers probably didn't pay quite as much attention as we all are 30 something years later!
Sea_Marshall liked this

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