PJCGB98 wrote:So a cast resin decent price would be around $50.00?
As I said before, we will see. AZSpidey's were going for $200 shipped and they were resin.

Anyway, didn't you find a shell somewhere?
Given ThrowingChicken's latest Facebook posts, I'm probably going to be abandoning this project since folks won't care about it in the face of TC's shell and a Heavy Props electronics package.

Thanks for the support for those who have stuck with me on this and given help (esp you, Cole). Wish I could've gotten this thing done earlier, but that's life, I guess.
jackdoud liked this
Well, maybe you can build yours to also accept the Heavy Props electronics, and maybe your 3D printed body can give a different price option, as TC has not yet revealed his pricing... If yours is cheaper, you may still have customers...
If I 3D printed every part for each kit, I would have lots of failed prints, which takes up extra time. The parts would all have a decent amount of finishing work left to do, which would take up extra time.
If I 3D printed one full kit, did all the finishing work, and then reproduced through molds, people would still prefer TC's kit, which is based off a real shell and not some estimates.

Had I gotten this done sooner, I might've pulled it off. But that hinged on me relying on certain people, which I really should know better than to do by now. Life goes on.
That's a real shame. I'd been following this thread for over a year and eagerly anticipated the end result.
TC's Gigameter looks great but competition is a good thing. He makes stunt traps and wands (I have both) but other sellers still offer their versions.
I hope you don't abandon this project. And I hope you decide to release the 3D files for the community to enjoy.
Been giving this a lot of thought over the past few days and I don't want all my work to come to nothing. If someone wants one of these printed, PM me and I'll be happy to do what I can. I will never make any promises on how long it will be expected to take, as printing is never an exact science and there will be failures and setbacks. These will have issues inherent in 3D printing (rough overhangs, barely-visible lines, etc) and will be sold "rough" (I will remove supporting material and such but the rest is up to you), which is why they will likely be dirt cheap.

Anyway, just wanted to let you all know. Here's to hoping the prints come out well and I can at least break even on filament.
alphabeta001 liked this
Ok folks, I'd just like to take a moment and recant any negativity or downplaying about how "rough" the prints are. Turns out I had a few settings off by a bit and, now that they have been fixed, my own printer's work is on the same level of quality as that of the first print I received from my contact at Stratasys.

Please let me know if you are interested. I still plan on selling prints cheap (as in "$50 per full kit" cheap). I will post pictures after I get a little sleep. Working nights is murder.
Pictures up!

The battery box has full-through holes for the screws to attach it to the main body. The fins are modeled directly onto the box itself and line up flush with the slope of the body and front cylinder.

The main body is two parts, top and bottom, with a small lip and hollow designed to allow for easy access and easy gluing together once the internals are finished. I'm still working on the electronics myself, but there is plenty of room for any system you want to put in.

The front cylinder can come in either one part (shown) or two parts, top and bottom similar to the main body. I included multiple ways to spin and light the inner dome, as well as an opening for lights to be seen through the main display in case you want to make it into the scanner from Star Trek VI.
The bottom looks a little rough because I haven't done much clean-up from the supports. A quick pass with a Dremel will take it right off.

The main display is split up into three parts: a base cylinder and two parts for the top. This is so you can easily put the Realistic Microphone through and access them during assembly. The display is perfectly sized for a 3-digit 7-segment display (I recommend Jameco if you're doing your own electronics) and there is a hole to either side for rectangular LEDs (which can be resized for normal LEDs if you so choose). I know that there are some models out there that have another LED above the 7-segment display, but none of my reference images from GB2 show it to my eyes.

I can print out the display in one part, if you so choose. Know that the holes for the Realistic Microphones are too small to fit the mics through, though, so you'll have to figure that one out on your own. :P

The handles are printed in left/right halves and include holes for a wheel potentiometer (easily filled if your electronics do not include speed control) and a momentary button on the underside.

Check the For Sale section for information on ordering!
Those prints look absolutely amazing! What layer height are you planning on printing these in for the run you posted?

I'm glad you decided to keep pushing forward with producing these! It would have been sad to see all your hard work get pushed aside at the last minute. Sadly, I missed out on the run so I'll have to wait and see what others do with these parts.

Again, great job!

Edit: I just noticed the huge overhangs you've been able to print on these parts! Are you using a fan on the print head to make these possible or is the UM2 just dialed in so well that they print no problem?
Thanks, Cole. I'm extruding at 0.2mm as there is almost no noticable difference in quality btwn that and 0.1, but a huge difference in time to print.
As far as overhangs, I just set the support material to generate for any ange greater than 30 degrees and set the Z-axis gap between support and print to zero to make for nicer overhangs. It's more difficult to remove the support and it uses a bit more filament, but the quality speaks volumes!
I am printing with ABS so I have the fans off completely. I've also printed out some hinges to make a plexiglass door for the front of the printer to reduce curling. ABS loves the heat, so I make sure it's got plenty.

I'll be doing another run soon, this one incorporating hardware like screws and threaded inserts. The first run was to check the interest level and get enough kits out there to start interest and progress threads.
Just wanted to mention that I bought 2 of these kits and some guys in my old franchise bought a few and they turned out great. It inspired me to build my own 3d printer and that only adds to my appreciation of the time and work it took not just to model these things, but to actually successfully print and ship them.
Great work.
For those with 3D printers of their own, I've finally gotten off my butt about making my files public. You can find them on the Thingiverse here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1046928
Started printing one of these today - the handles are currently printing (proper ones, R Handle file.)

Noticed that the Thingiverse files have the main body and display/front cylinder files as solids, wasn't really sure how to print them in that case.

Any extra info about how you were planning on driving the head on this? Going to be doing my own electronics, with sound and the LED display. Going to go With an i2c display, though, to keep the wire count down. Likely LTM-8522HR.
The models on Thingiverse are intentionally that way and meant to be printed with support. This was to keep half-assed recasting schmucks whose name rhymes with VideoPob from recasting a print. Not a perfect prevention, but it seems to do the trick.

Arduino was my go-to idea with servos driving the ears and a motor spinnimg the dome. I'll be updating the model with changes to use acrylic rods in the dome and stationary LEDs lighting it rather than having LEDs sticking out of the dome itself. Also will be updating the dome to spin on a central motor instead of the cord detangler.

That's assuming I ever get the time, that is. Entire family is sick right now so my hands are busy wiping noses and making food.
Still working on this.


Noticed something off the bat - the Realistic mic bodies do not fit into the display face slots, due to the model not being split up as shown previously in the thread. I noticed that David straight removed the bottom braces for the holes - I'll just do the same.

Also, printing the body as a single piece with supports turned on was absolutely terrible to remove the supports from. Still bleeding in several spots.

Currently printing an ear pivot platform that inserts in the cylinder housing. It'll have a printed-in servo mount, holes for access, and 4mm pivot holes in the plate, as well as a proper rib clearance for the display to seat in properly. The design is based heavily on David's work.


I've also designed spacers for the Realistic mic ears so they don't have to pivot on the mounting body. Once I can screw some of this together, I'll design arms to pivot the ears from the servo.
Tyrael liked this
Did some more work on this - waiting for parts to verify fit, but the measurements all line up.


Realistic mic ear spacer, servo hookup, dome drive post for the 300rpm 12v gearmotor I've got coming, a fixed motor mount plate with LED spots, thumbwheel slot blockout, and a reinforced mic ear/servo mount plate.

This is all WIP as I progress with Tyrael's model.

This is the motor I'm using - 12v 300RPM with attached gearbox.

Keeping in spirit with the CC-A-NC license, the .skp's of these have been added to the Thingiverse page as remixes in case I'm hit by a bus or something.

I've also modified the original handle file to remove the thumbwheel slot, and change the opening underneath the handle to properly fit an 11x15mm snap-in rocker switch for power on/off.
Tyrael liked this

Didn't Marlon Brando have split hairs?



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