Have a guide or tutorial? Post it up!
Thanks for the info Jack! Then let me get your opinion on something else. I went to Pep Boys and bought two 4 ohm speakers because it's all they had. So if I wire those in parallel with the 7 watt amp, do you think this will work or will the amp blow the speakers, or will it just sound bad? Or maybe I should wire them in series? What do you think?


P.S.-My son won one of your T-shirts at the Philly Wizard World convention this past June! Great show!
http://home.comcast.net/~painkiller67/g ... rd2011.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~painkiller67/g ... aypuft.jpg
Well if you put two 4ohm's in parallel they'll have a total resistance of 2ohms which would probably be a bad thing. Put them in series and you'll be at 8 ohms but I don't know what the amp would do. I don't really know much about audio tech, there's always so much theory and audiophile nonsense wrapped around it that it's hard to know what's correct. Unless someone else here can chime in best advice I could give is try it and hope for the best. :whatever:
Pete33 wrote:i would literally pay someone to build me this sound system lol. i am just too lazy to DIM (do it myself).
You'd have to pay someone to come to your house and install it then because it's really not possible to make it totally plug-and-play.
U could buy that 7W amp n hook it to speakers n a 12V battery n put an AUX port on it to play off ur ipod. I have 2 amps in my pack.

One 7W amp for the sound chip running off One 12V rechargeable battery

and one 20W amp running off a separate 12V rechargeable battery with an AUX port on it for my ipod to bump music.

I just have a switch and alternate between which amp i want to use because both amps r connected to the same 2 bose speakers in my pack. The 20W amp is LOUD. but i tried playing it with the replica props sound chip, n it would only play at a low level or else it would sound shitty when u turned it up.
Ok I just wanted to throw this stuff out there for you guys using this tutorial. I have built 2 packs now using this tutorial and these are just a couple things that I added to mburkits already fanominal work! I hope I'm not stepping on your toes here Matt.

Here was my first hurdle when I started working with Matts tutorial... making the nkk switch look more screen acurate since the factory cap/button just plain sucks!! This is how I got around that suckiness...

First thing I did was to pull the accurate switch out of my gun and cut it off of Exorays gun light wiring harness. Here are both switches side by side...

Next what I did was separate the screen accurate button/plunger from the original switch. No special technique here just yank on it and it will pull out...

This next part is a little tricky because if you cut the plunger to short you wont be able to push the button, if its to long it wont look right. This is the final length I cut the plunger down to, its was just trial and error to get it right...

Then the hardest part of this little conversion, you have to take the new nkk swicth and carefully drill the threads out from where the factory cap screws into. You'll have to forgive me I forgot to write down the exact size drill bit I used, I'm pretty sure it was 3/32'nds. Just use a bit that is about the same size as the shaft of the plunger you pulled from the original switch...

Then just glue your new plunger into the nice enlarged hole you just drilled out in the new switch..... and voila... pretty darn close to a screen accurate dpdt push button...

Alright the next minor change I made to the mburkit tutorial was to rewire one of the switches to also turn power on and off to the amp so it doesn't just run constantly draining the battery. Here is just a quick diagram showing what switches I changed, what they do and where the wires go...
You can see the lower switch, next the the bar graph, on the gun I changed out to a dpdt toggle as well. That way I could put a break in the negative wire coming from the battery and going to the amp, so that when everything is off the amp isn't drawing power. That switch is the first one in line to flip when going through the whole gun/pack lights and sound power up sequence anyways so it works perfectly.

And here are the fruits of Matt's tutorial and my time/labor lol enjoy in full HD
Hi folks!
Just wanted to show you another momentary pushbutton switch that could be the best solution for your problem . Unfortunately, I don't find them with a black cap but I think you could dye it easily. It's cheaper than the other commended switches and in case you want to change the cap you don't have to cut off anything. EBAY LINK REMOVED
You can run it at anything from 3 to 12 volts I believe the only thing is you won't get the maximum power output from the amp.. I run mine on 6 d cells and it works just fine.
I have a question. In your tutorial, you recommend two of the speakers, but in the photo of your setup, it appears that you only have one installed. I'd like to maximize my space and weight, so if I can just use one speaker, I'd rather do that. I just wanted to see if I could get some clarification or a recommendation. Thanks!
Hey ghost of venkman. If u look closely he's got the 2nd speaker at the bottom under the circuit board. Is there facing up n the circuit board is on 4 stands raising it over the speaker. I say use 2 speakers. The 2nd speaker shouldn't be a big weight issue

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Ghostbusters Fans on Android
It's probably possible to get some kind of dummy load that will act electrically as a second speaker but not actually do anything. Dunno why an 8ohm resistor wouldn't work but I'm not real clear on audio electronics so that's just a guess.

I'm knew to this whole wiring thing and was wondering. Would it be possible to connect the lights and start up/shut down sound on the chip to just one switch? Could a DPDT switch be used for this?

Thanks to whoever helps with this!!!
I just got a Jupiter Light kit for my thrower and pack, has any one successfully added the sound with it? The Jupiter kits runs off of 2 9volts out of the box, so i am just wondering how to over come this obstacle. thanks
I've added sound to the Jupiter lights. If you take a look at the instructions, the light kits will run off 9-12 volts. I run both the lights and sound off one of the cc camera batteries that Matt recommends in this tutorial.

This thread is nothing short of amazing. Before I read this entire thing i had no idea how the hell i was going to mount up 8 C cell batteries to my pack to power the thing... now I have a 12V LIpoly 4800 mah battery on the way with the female plug to wire it all into my back...

and thanks to this thread I also have on the way that amp and the two 4inch speakers.. should be really fun once it all gets here.

I just have one question about the wiring on the amp..

I see the DC (-) (+) and that is for power..

I see the SPK (-) (+) and that is out to the speakers..

Then I see "IN" and a (G) and a spot.. I am assuming G means ground but then there is a "WIN" spot also..

now I am confused and I do not want to wire anything wrong and possibly short anything out.

thank you all
FeinDTacticS wrote: Then I see "IN" and a (G) and a spot.. I am assuming G means ground but then there is a "WIN" spot also..

now I am confused and I do not want to wire anything wrong and possibly short anything out.

thank you all
"IN" and "G" are all you need to hook up to. "WIN" stands for Walkman IN. You should not have to worry about it.
I actually had to hook it up into the "WIN" to get anything, and that was on the basic instructions.

Now my next problem is even with this Amplifier cranked to full with the two speakers the sound is still kinda low.. it does not have that UMPH that I was looking for. The streets of NYC will drown out these two speakers with the AMP cranked to full so far. Should I give the AMP the full 12V supply instead of sharing it between the lights and the soundchip? Does having a good quality headphone wire coming out of the sound adapter make a difference? I was using cheap 99cents store headphones to run it but i am ready to strip my skullcandy "smokinbuds" onces to see if there is a difference in that also..
I could use a hand with the same problem. I have the Crix sound board ( the square one with screw terminals) and cant get two sounds on one DPDT. I'm going for startup with hum when toggled on and shutdown when toggled off. So far no luck even with reasonable electronics experience.
Tom Koza wrote:I could use a hand with the same problem. I have the Crix sound board ( the square one with screw terminals) and cant get two sounds on one DPDT. I'm going for startup with hum when toggled on and shutdown when toggled off. So far no luck even with reasonable electronics experience.
It's not too hard. With a DPDT, just think of 1 row of 3 terminals as 1 switch (lights), and the other row as a 2nd switch (sounds).

So let's say, we'll make the left set for your sounds. You're gonna run 3 wires from the sound board to the switch. The middle terminal is gonna be connected to any ground terminal on the sound board. Then the upper and lower terminal are run to the startup and shutdown terminals on the soundboard.

Now, the "active" terminal is the one opposite the way the switch is thrown. So if you flip the toggle up, the middle and bottom terminals are connected. Flip it down and the middle and upper terminals are connected.

So if for you flipping the toggle up turns on your pack lights, wire the bottom terminal to the startup sound and the upper terminal to shutdown.
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