User avatar
By Kingpin
Moderator
#4909699
I'm gonna have to shut down this talk of offering up screen decals for sale... As soon as Hoodaman has sorted out a Supporting Membership, he's more than welcome to advertise them here via the Marketplace.
NickFame13, roofgoof liked this
By JTWingless
#4909864
A member of my team texted me this weekend. He said he took the back off to remove the belt clip and the PKE meter stopped working. I do not get mine in the mail until Friday, so not sure how to help him. Is there a way to remove the belt clip without taking the PKE apart?
Took mine apart and it stopped working for a few hours. Best guess it was the oil they use to assemble shorting it. I cleaned it off and it works like a charm now.
By hoodaman
#4909936
Sorry to say the decals came in and they are too small. I'll need to get them resized. They cover most of the screen area but not the entire area. Unfortunately I probably won't be able to get them done in time for halloween. Sorry guys.

Here is a pic of what it looks like after it's applied (it doesn't look bad in the dark or from a distance but still)

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If anyone is still interested in any of these I'm giving them away for free. Just PM me your mailing address and I'll put them in an envelope for you.
EnderWeggen liked this
By properRocket
#4909979
Here's the mods I made; I took out the brightly colored "buttons" and replaced them with ones that sit a little more flush. Then I took the nipple off the back and re-sculpted the ridges. Finally I re-painted the whole thing with Valspar Matallic Oil Rubbed Bronze.
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By properRocket
#4910060
How did you make your replacement buttons?
It's really easy actually. When you take it apart the upper ones come out like this:
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Just cut off the buttons and put the screen back:
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then just trace the foot print on to a piece of clear plastic and paint with clear model paint. Here's the lower set of buttons:
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I was also able to put a grid on to my screen with the same clear plastic.
Some graph paper to get the size right:
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Then I used a knife and a ruler to etch the grid lines in (the original had the lines physically etched in too):
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TA-DAA!
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User avatar
By EnderWeggen
#4910185
Update 30Oct2018- Warning Requires delicate hands, patience Do not pry on wire pin conection It could lead to breaking of the conector.

Detection arm wire switching made easy.

First the connection pins are vary small and the wire is small to that makes cutting and splicing them back togother a bad idea. I have found a simple and easy way to de-pin the 8 wire conection the only tool you will need is a fine or small sewing needle.

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the wire pulled is the right Detection Arm number one LED from the inside out. When pulled the first inside LED does not work while the rest keep going. With 7 LEDs we have one wire for each LED and a shared power or ground wire.

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As you can see in this picture of the connection to the main board, I have used a sewing needle to slightly lift the holding clamps slowly remove needle "DO NOT PRY" Let the sewing needle do the work as you cerfuly/gently pull the wire from the conector allowing the wires to be swapped.
Last edited by EnderWeggen on October 30th, 2018, 7:49 pm, edited 2 times in total.
NickFame13, Creativeguy liked this
By EgonMacGyver
#4910333
So, I did this, but I need to give a warning -- it requires a very light touch. I accidentally pulled off one of the pins from the wire when I did it yesterday. I'm trying to figure out a fix for it, but nothing really is satisfying yet. On the other hand, 13/14 lights is a pretty high success rate. I ordered a second one and I think I'm going to rewire it to use the GB2 light sequence to go with my GB2 suit.
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User avatar
By EnderWeggen
#4910340
Truly sorry for that I may have underestimated the difficulty of de-pinning that small of wires. I was 14/14 but unfortunately a Led on each wing arm is burned out so I'm only at 12/14 working. I would recommend just useing some tape to hold the wire in place push the conection down then take a jeweler flat head screw driver to press that wire into its conection should hold ok afterwards. Also Note that each end of the wire has the same plug so you could de-pin the wires in the detection arm. And lastly dose any one know what kind of LED's are used on the arms, I need to replace two?
By EgonMacGyver
#4910352
No need to apologize, Ender, it's all my own fault. The pin connector has a little protrusion that catches on the plastic pieces, and I didn't realize that it was caught on my sewing needle, so I kept pulling and ended up breaking the wire. As to the repair job, I'm not sure if that will work -- it broke off right at the connector, with a piece of insulation still inside the connector.
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By Creativeguy
#4910454
I hope you don't mind me posting this here. I rearranged the wires in the connectors and got the PKE to have a decent light sequence on the wings.



First PKE in the video is an unmodified one and the second is the modified.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mZcMjlyaRIw


Forgive the terrible background noise. It's fish tanks bubbling.

The wings have 8 wires coming out of them. One is a power/ground and from then on it's 1 through 7.

The way I did it was put the power/ground wire in the first spot on the connector, then the wire for the 3rd light goes in the 1st slot after it, then as follows

5th light wire/2nd slot
7th light wire/3rd slot
4th light wire/4th slot
1st light wire/5th slot
6th light wire/6th slot
2nd light wire/7th slot

I based the light sequence off the original sequence from the first film.

It goes from the inside out: 3, 5, 7, 4, 1, 6, 2


I like the sound that's under the beeps on the Spirit PKE but the beeps aren't even close to the movie sounds.. I wonder if there's a way to just remove the beeping.
By EgonMacGyver
#4910472
Awesome! That's exactly what I did. I also got a second one in which I did the pattern 3-1-6-4-7-5-2, which is the Ghostbusters 2 pattern. I figured I should, since I'm primarily using a GB2 suit right now (zipper broke on my GB1)
User avatar
By EnderWeggen
#4918153
It's been some time but I am still moving forward with Spirit PKE Re-Work/MOD's

Made Screen Image - So much better looking
Moved Screen Forward - This is the Biggest improvement to its Look
Added Grip - Just Helps it not look so off
Added Buttons to sound Holes
Replaced Light covers
Cut Down Antenna's - Ok this might be the biggest Improvement to its Look, At lest when on.
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User avatar
By doctorevil30564
#4918839
Looks awesome, do you have a guide or any advice on how to add the buttons to the sound holes?

I'm on the list to get one of the PKEnhanced spirit PKE sound kits and I have to take mine apart anyways to troubleshoot and fix one of the LEDs on the right antenna/wing being out, so might be something else I want to do for mine. Your PKE meter looks great.
It's been some time but I am still moving forward with Spirit PKE Re-Work/MOD's

Made Screen Image - So much better looking
Moved Screen Forward - This is the Biggest improvement to its Look
Added Grip - Just Helps it not look so off
Added Buttons to sound Holes
Replaced Light covers
Cut Down Antenna's - Ok this might be the biggest Improvement to its Look, At lest when on.
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
User avatar
By Kingpin
Moderator
#4918841
Why did you replace the light covers to be frosted transparent? The original P.K.E. prop's red, green and yellow indicators looked like how they were depicted on the Spirit replica.
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User avatar
By EnderWeggen
#4919209
doctorevil30564, I used thin 2mm EVA Foam and cut it to shape and fit the sound holes and silver metallic spray paint.

Kingpin, I just couldn't get the light covers to seat any lower as they stuck out also used a Matty as reference, The good news is the LED's are colored correctly so when you turn it on it looks fine, the frosted transparent helps defuse the LED's so that each color fills the hole.

When I get it back From my friends that helped take it to Fan Fest 2019 I will take pictures of it turned on.
By NickFame13
#4919268
It's been some time but I am still moving forward with Spirit PKE Re-Work/MOD's

Made Screen Image - So much better looking
Moved Screen Forward - This is the Biggest improvement to its Look
Added Grip - Just Helps it not look so off
Added Buttons to sound Holes
Replaced Light covers
Cut Down Antenna's - Ok this might be the biggest Improvement to its Look, At lest when on.
Image
Image
Image
Image
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How did you make the screen image?
User avatar
By EnderWeggen
#4919273
NickFame13 I showed my wife the Matty screen and asked her if she could make a printable version for me, thene I cut out the screen from scrap's of clear plastic so it would set on the edge I had made with slivers of the thin EVA foam. Oh ya the paper had to be glued on with epoxy mod pog did not hold the paper to the plastic screen.
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By EgonMacGyver
#4920696
Hey Ender, two questions.

1) you've done a lot of digging around inside these things, do you know what size screw holds the back on? I've managed to strip almost all of them on two meters.

2) would you be willing to share your steps in moving the screen forward?

Great work on everything!!
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User avatar
By EnderWeggen
#4920711
Hi EgonMacGyver, First the screws are PB 2.6, they are commonly used on NURF guns but a quick search on google should revile places to buy them.

IF you have striped screw heads I would make sure you are using a P0 screw driver. if the post hole on the PKE is striped put a small amount of shoe goo in the hole once it drys it will grip the screw and post.

I will post a how to for the screen as soon as i have more time
NickFame13 liked this
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