By Midmichigun
#392651
Long time lurker.... ever Ghostbusters supporter...
I am looking to build a Gigameter based on some of the posts that I have seen here... and let me say, you builders are a talented bunch.... and some of my own ideas..... As I progress this build, I will ask for some help... but I also ask for patience. I have many irons in the fire, and little time on projects...
Here is what I am starting with:
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Pictured is a "spinner" toy, can of food at approximate "hoop" dimensions that look good. I also sourced a device to base the build off of... as a second warning... I try to be economical when possible....
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No... not $150.00.... it was $1.50 for the hand held mixer.
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I got the idea of the spinner from you good folks (thank you much)... I searched high a low to actually find one... I ended up getting it at a local Target (it was the last one).
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First up was to modify the "base" as I refer to it. The mixer has a slightly convex base which needs some modification... I want it to be flat, along with the segmented look...
First was to strip the internals and strip off the paint.
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By Midmichigun
#392652
Due to CPU problems, I try and post in bits...
Here I have stripped through the paint..
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I was expecting aluminum due to the weight, but was happy to also find Bakelite. This stuff is hard and brittle, so keep that in mind when building.... I did manage to crack it easily.
I also started cutting off extra "junk" not needed, like the mixer bearings... to save weight..
I then cut in the strips to make the segmented look.... This was a simple hacksaw and file job.
Then it was onto making dams to hold the Bondo.
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Several coats of bondo..
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And yes, I added toooo much... but that is ok... it gives me something to grind on!

In a sudden change in policy (my wife decided that we should keep the can of food) I sourced a chunk of PVC from my telescope holder. This is actually part of a PVC coupling... not the actual PVC pipe itself. I believe this was from a 3inch coupler. I then "glued" it in place..
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I have also decided to use close in the rear of the mixer handle.... I used an aluminum tube as a "filler" to give me bulk and something to sculp to..
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After much application of Bondo.... I have this.
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Now I have lotsa Bondo to remove on the base!.
By Midmichigun
#392749
I took some more time to work out the shell of the mixer....
After several coats of Bondo, it was time for sanding the upper and lower portion...

Here I used a rasp to rough down the Bondo, and to start my contouring
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I did the same to the lower shell. I drilled auxilery holes to mount on a board, then it was rasp, file... and sand until close to perfect! One thing that you find, is that making simple jigs, greatly speeds up your work.
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You can see that I also punched through the paint, down to the Bakelite....

Next up was several coats of "fill and sand" primer... it is a "high build" type, to fill in the low spots and help level the surface... the bottom is still rough...

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I debated on how close to "real" I wanted to take this... I feel that this is "good enough" for me.... I am sure you all could do better! :)

A lot more spraying and sanding... and I have reached this level...
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Matte black, some lights.... and we are good to go!! Hope you all are enjoying!! :)
By Midmichigun
#392757
Alan,
I am submitting all the "gory" details, on how to "git er done"... in a basic manner. Most people I suspect hide their failures and don't give exact instructions... I don't mind sharing part numbers or build details... However, I bet this will also turn off some people.

And yes, sometimes you resort to anything on hand. :)

I am up to any black finish to hide rough spots... I agree, satin does look alot more sharp... I will see what I have in the "blast cabinet".... but promise to aviod John Deere green!

I would prefer to do the build with an actual shoe buffer but haven't seen one lately... so I am going to my "fall back" position of Grand ma's mixer......
User avatar
By Alan Hawkins
#392763
Personally I would rather have a mixer than a real scrub n' brush. When you have the real deal you kind of loose the ability to be creative. Plus you might inspire some people to start looking for cheap mixers at yard sales.

Personally I'm collecting parts for a mini-Giga Meter (ala a CrusaderX type build.) I want something small that I can hang on my belt.

Sent from my DROID X2 using Ghostbusters Fans on Android
By Midmichigun
#392767
Cool! Ya, I saw the mini Giga Meter, and just loved it.... I was thinking about something like that for my kiddo's... believe me, even styrene packs get heavy for them after 50 steps! :)

I have been Cruising the Salvation Army stores looking for shoe buffers (for PKE or Gigameter). I have been staring at the Wifey's mixer.... and decided to pop for the $1.50.... when I saw it.

I was also thinking about making a new "bottom" for it via my mill. I am not in love on how it turned out.....

The reason why I spaced the "boxes" on the bottom the way that I did... was there were a set of bearing in the way.... I filled the area with bondo anyway...... so I should have made the spacing different... but most people ('cept you good folks) wouldn't know!! :)

Now onto other problems with the build! As you can appreciate, if I wanted perfection, I would have gone with the scrub n brush route!! As you noted, you can be creative with a "smash up build".
By Midmichigun
#393492
Next up to do, is to strip down the toy with the rotating lights.... This must be done carefully, since the wires are very fine...
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This is what I am after... the motor, and the "rotor" with the collar that supplies voltage to the LED's.
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I debated long and hard on what to use as a "dome". As you can appreciate, finding something in a toy bin would be ideal... but improbable. Therefore, I cruised around Target stores and found an "acryllic" stemless wine glass...
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Looking around ACE, I found a "drain grate" that would be ideal for my purpose. It is thin wall, and matches the union I.D. that I am using..
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Then it was onto careful trimming of the "flange"....
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Then onto cutting down the wall to a good height.
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I then cut a hole in the grate to allow a 3/4in PVC pipe to pass through, and also slit that pipe down the middle and removed 1/4in as a slot. This will provide tension on the motor, and act as a clamp. The slot is to allow the solder that has been applied to the case to be left in place also. Now is a convenient time to adjust the height of the motor and spinning rotor.
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As you can see from above, the test fit looks good.
Then it was onto solder and glueing everything in place..
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Bottom photo of the "dome" in place
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By Midmichigun
#401833
Ok... I'm back! As I mentioned, I am a slow builder....
Here I am exploring on how to get the geometry right, so I can make the arms move.
First, I worked up a "work board". I used some plexiglass that I had laying around.
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I shaped out 2, T pcs. The perpendicular portion was shaped to fit into my donor fuel line tubes. The long end I drilled a series of holes to work out the shape....
I then worked up some rods shaped from coat hangers...
Here is a rough mockup....
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When I move the arms in one direction, it opens...
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Opposite direction, it closes...
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I will mount the control arm to a geared motor (I will post the link later). The gear box will knock the output to about 13rpm's if I remember...
Anyway, to get the total movement/ displacement I put a rule alongside the linkage...
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Opening and closing the contraption, I have about 1/4in movement.... therefore, I need to have a 1/4in total movement., which will be via a disk with a proper hole drilled.

I am planning on mounting the motor and gearbox inside the main portion of the body. Therefore I need a hole to pass the linkage through...
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Next up... connecting it all together....
By Midmichigun
#403748
Next up was to "solidify" my linkage design based on my rough draft previously posted..
Some bondo, some cutting... and my drain cap/ grate suddenly looks like this.
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Not that I added a clear plexiglass "slide" plate/ spacer. I chose plexiglass since I have a bunch of scraps laying around.
You can see where I have put the linkage and the fuel tube into the head portion, with the plexi acting as a spacer. I am looking for a smooth, non binding setup here folks.
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Using my coat hanger spacer, I drilled and tapped my holes.
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Notice that I am using 4-40 screws for my pivot points.
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As of right now, this is where I am at...
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Notice that the plexiglass makes for poor photo quality. I do have aluminum, that I could use after I finish my prototype...
Placing the "head" on the "meter"... I have this:
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Left to do is connect the motor/ gearbox to the linkage....
By Midmichigun
#413137
Big Guy!
When I get done with my Slime Blowers.... then I am back onto this project... stay tuned for more mayhem and pictures!!!
By Midmichigun
#418001
Ok... onward with this build.
To simplify the process, I have dumped the rod, that would be driven off of a gear driven circle. After dismounting the gearbox and motor, I needed to start carving down the area that was originally to be used for the drive shaft through hole...
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The motor will now be pushed up next to the spinner motor. This is fine, but will involve further modifications... later to be discussed.
Here is the motor being glued in place.... more photos to follow!
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User avatar
By Boomerjinks
#418002
Has anyone ever tried re-soldering the correct colored leds into one of those toys? I feel like the pinks and blues ruin the effect to some degree...
By Midmichigun
#418049
Boomer,
I was thinking about doing some custom LED on this... I purchased a multipack.... and might be able to change out the ones on the rotating circle.... but first I wanted to get the "arms" to function....

For the waving arms, I will probably go with a simple 555 type timer setup..... but as you can appreciate, time is running out for Halloween of this year...
By Midmichigun
#418932
Since I have relocated the gear motor, I also created the stud that will drive the wings....
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This took quite a bit of insight to "simplify" my design. I am a firm believer in "complexification... where a simple idea becomes hopelessly fixed to the point that it no longer functions as intended.... Therefore, I kept at it, to find a simple solution to indexing both wings at the same time... I am up with what I call the "short toggle" method:
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In this position, both wings are facing forward. Note that the side that has my thumb, will be "driven" by the motor via a short linkage. The opposite side is pushed up and out via the motion of the driven side... as in the following:
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A return spring is needed to insure that the unlinked wing returns to "zero" in a consistant manner...
Here it helps to have a bunch of spring to choose from..
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The best way to do this if you don't have springs, is to visit an ACE after you have done measurements... I have chosen a spring that is pretty weak to start with.....
The one that I chose for this application is this:
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While this looks small and petty, this will now allow me to make the final motor to wing linkage... and get this project jump started!

I took my original acryllic parts and super glued them for testing... now I am using JB cold weld to create a more permanent bond... and ideally if I have time, new parts carved from fresh acryllic.
By Midmichigun
#418933
To help secure the spring, I drilled a hole large enough for a bit of a brad nail to fit into. This will allow the spring to be flexed, but not to be lost. When drilling acryllic, go slow and let it cool...
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By Midmichigun
#418936
Now onto the electrical portion of the build. While at Radio Shack, I raided the "clearance" bin... they had this interesting kit for $3.97... I guess you solder it up, insert into a bulb, and it changes color... interesting use would be on the wing tips...
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I am trying to think on how this could be used for a "screen" on the gigameter, but may implement a 2nd LED board to handle that... later...
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By TheBigGuy
#418937
The "complexification" only affirms that my choice to use static ears is the right one for me right now ;-)

You are doing some pretty awesome stuff here! Keep up the good work!
By Midmichigun
#418941
TBG,

Thanks for the kind words! I really appreciate what you have said.

You are correct on "complexification".... it is an important step in understanding the failure of projects.

Fortunately I have backup plans for the wiring....

and I originally started off with the wings being my defining factor... so that is a defacto must do on this build....

now if I can only remember how to rewire that dang spinning thingy! ;)

Now the lot of you who are LED savy might point out that the kits are $$, vs. the minor component purchase price, however, since I am out of touch on LED's, I am going slow on figuring out this stuff!
By Midmichigun
#419278
Ok.. using the above mentioned "globe LED" kit, I have chased down the various wiring on the board. What I will be doing, is mounting the board like this...
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This will allow me to continue to use the "feature" button on the board. This button allows me to toggle between several light colors along with the changing/ flashing version
The button will be accessed via the side slot like this...
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The battery will be shared with the "wing" motors along with the "spinning gizmo". Although not on the handle, I am locating the on/ off switch at the rear of the gigameter...
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By TheBigGuy
#419676
Hey keep up the good work! It's been fun working on this "together" - undoubtedly, yours will be better, but your thread has been great for ideas!

Do you have a plan for the cross that wraps the dome? I'm thinking about cutting it from sheet PVC, but it would require a pretty large piece and most of it will end up as scrap. I have thought about two strips that cross in the center, but haven't been able to figure out how to make that juncture clean.
By Midmichigun
#419720
TBG,
LOL! Group projects help with creativity.. you can see what you dont' like, and so on. In the end, it comes down to time, supplies and tooling.

I was actually planning on PVC.

On the fly... this could be pcs of tape layered together.... due to the impending holiday.

If I can get a good bend, I was also thinking of some aluminum. I am sure that I can bend/ hammer it accurate enough, and then file out any dings and dents. I can get it in a variety of sizes, and it can be glued/ painted in place. My center section is actually depressed (I am using the stemless wine glass approach). There, I need to come up with a disk to fill the flat, and join the cross. But I do have YOUR dome as a backup. I think that simple aluminum and fiberglass is the ticket.
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By TheBigGuy
#419722
Nice. Thanks! I want to have mine done before Friday, so I think I'm somewhere between no cross at all and PVC, because I have plenty. We'll see how the next couple of days go. I'm also allowing myself a lot of leeway that can be improved upon later.
By Midmichigun
#419731
TBG,
They really don't look that bad without the cross.... I may skip that portion on my build... as I wrestle with EVERYTHING else I am working on.

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