User avatar
By JWils23
#4928978
I'm finally getting the time to work on my hero build and I'm starting to mark placements on my shell for parts but I'm running into conflict with the beam line. As I'm looking at different builds and pictures of the packs from the first movie I'm seeing some where the beam line seems to be more directly under the PPD and some (like the Omni pack) where it is very much in the elbow of the cyclotron. I know all the packs have subtle differences and I'm not modeling mine after one specifically but is there a consensus on placement for the beam line? Or is it one of those whichever you like because neither is wrong situations?
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By thor2015
#4928993
You have photos showing two different placements on screen used packs. This should be enough proof that as long as you stick to this general area that there is no one "right" way in terms of exact placement. As long as you stick to that general area, put it where you think it looks best. Remember that no matter how precise any of us get with our packs, they will always be replicas and the vast majority of people out there who are going to compliment you on it once its done won't be carrying around blueprints, rulers and dial calipers. I've not run into anyone like that yet in person but it wouldn't surprise me either to know there is at least one.

Anyways, have fun with your build- that's what this stuff is supposed to be about and can't wait to see it once it's done!
NotSabbat, JWils23, Kingpin liked this
User avatar
By Lowberg
#4929003
Agreed with above, my only suggestion is that if you decide to do a L bracket for the power tubes that attaches to the shell...do that first so you can be sure it won't interfere with the placement of the beam line. Other than that, it's up to you how you want your pack to look! I definitely had the same dilemma as you, I know for sure I drilled in the wrong place and then went back and filled the hole and re-drilled. Looking back, it really didn't matter lol
JWils23 liked this
User avatar
By JWils23
#4929004
Appreciate the responses guys! I was definitely thinking along the same lines, neither way is wrong so do it how I want it. But we all know how we can get wrapped up in little details like this trying to make it perfect :lol: I think I’m going to place mine more under the PPD, the more I look at it the more I like it.

Thanks for the advice Lowberg, I am doing the bracket for the injector tubes so I’ve only marked where I was going to place the filler tube. Haven’t drilled that one yet for that very reason!
User avatar
By JWils23
#4929039
Rather than starting a new thread I figured I’d ask this here. Since I know at some point I’m bound to make a mistake, what type of filler have you guys used to patch mistake holes or cracks? I have all aluminum parts but I do have a few resin parts like the bumper and booster ladder. I’ve also never really worked with fiberglass so I’m not sure what is best.
User avatar
By Lowberg
#4929080
I've done tons of body work on proton packs, from filling holes to basically rebuilding a torn vaccuform shell from scratch

For holes, I've used epoxy putty for plastic (J-B Weld PlasicWeld Expoxy Putty)
It's like a stick of putty that has an inner layer and outer layer. You slice off a little piece with a razor, and then kneed the putty together to combine both layers and "activate" it. I've used it to plug screw holes and join minor parts together. I dries insanely rock hard and it's sandable (Although it's a little tough to sand)

I've had better luck with regular Bondo auto body filler, which is a 2 part filler. It dries hard with just a little flex and is sandable. Downside of this is it has very strong smell, and you have to apply with a scraper (It's like the texture and consistency of cake frosting)

For small cracks some people use Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty, but it's really only good for smoothing surface imperfections and dries bright red which can be problematic if paint chips.

Out of all of these I prefer the Bondo Auto Body filler, but i've used combinations of all 3 in certain circumstances.
1: Epoxy Putty - Fill Large Gaps and Holes (Just below the surface to be sanded, usually from behind on the inside of the pack)
2: Bondo Auto Body Filler - Apply to Surface of Epoxy putty filled area and sand flush
3: Bondo Spot Putty, smooth out any imperfections

Edit: You are bringing back horrifying flashbacks of when my buddy challenged me to repair his vaccuform shell that looked like it got ran over by a car and had gaping holes.... I'll never do that again but I Gotta share these.
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JWils23, Corey91 liked this
User avatar
By JWils23
#4929107
Lowberg wrote: December 17th, 2019, 11:07 am I've done tons of body work on proton packs, from filling holes to basically rebuilding a torn vaccuform shell from scratch

For holes, I've used epoxy putty for plastic (J-B Weld PlasicWeld Expoxy Putty)
It's like a stick of putty that has an inner layer and outer layer. You slice off a little piece with a razor, and then kneed the putty together to combine both layers and "activate" it. I've used it to plug screw holes and join minor parts together. I dries insanely rock hard and it's sandable (Although it's a little tough to sand)

I've had better luck with regular Bondo auto body filler, which is a 2 part filler. It dries hard with just a little flex and is sandable. Downside of this is it has very strong smell, and you have to apply with a scraper (It's like the texture and consistency of cake frosting)

For small cracks some people use Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty, but it's really only good for smoothing surface imperfections and dries bright red which can be problematic if paint chips.

Out of all of these I prefer the Bondo Auto Body filler, but i've used combinations of all 3 in certain circumstances.
1: Epoxy Putty - Fill Large Gaps and Holes (Just below the surface to be sanded, usually from behind on the inside of the pack)
2: Bondo Auto Body Filler - Apply to Surface of Epoxy putty filled area and sand flush
3: Bondo Spot Putty, smooth out any imperfections

Edit: You are bringing back horrifying flashbacks of when my buddy challenged me to repair his vaccuform shell that looked like it got ran over by a car and had gaping holes.... I'll never do that again but I Gotta share these.
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This is perfect and exactly what I was looking for. I’ve seen other threads where people use bondo to fix things but there usually isn’t a specific type and there are quite a few different bondos out there. I’m being super careful about measuring multiple times before I drill but I know it’s inevitable that eventually something will chip or I’ll screw up a measurement so i want to be prepared. I also have one little air bubble at the bottom of the cyclotron that i want to fix. More than likely once it’s textured and painted no one would ever know but I’d like to learn how to do this and that seems like the perfect spot, very inconspicuous.

Amazing job on the vaccuformed pack, that final picture is doesn’t even look like the same pack! That’s what I’d like to be able to learn how to do.

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