#4930420
long story short I wanna change the switch to my blue brick. But I am having a slight wiring issue.
here is the brick opened up with original switch and wiring.
Image

here is the switch I want to use.
Image

Cleaned up the wiring and made them a little longer (more room to play with.)
Image

Right now. I have the single wire to ground. on the switch.
the two black wires to load and the three red wires to led.
When I flip the switch the led turns on but no power is supplied to the pack. (obviously I have something wired wrong.. Any thoughts?
#4930422
Hey,

On that new type of switch you have, the ground is only needed for the LED in the switch itself. The other two terminals are for the load and you can have the battery + connected to the middle so the LED is always on or the battery + connected to the other end so the LED in the switch turns on when the switch is closed. The old switch was connecting the negative black wire from the battery to the negative black wires running to the plugs.

I would suggest this assuming you only want the switch LED to come on when the switch is closed. There are 3 black and 3 red wires. 1 black and 1 red are coming from the battery, while the other two pairs are going to the input/output plugs. The red wire from battery should go on the bottom post of the switch, the other 2 red wires should go on the middle. This will put the switch on the positive side. The 3 black wires can be connected to the ground post, this will also provide the ground for the LED in the switch.
#4930424
"I would suggest this assuming you only want the switch LED to come on when the switch is closed. There are 3 black and 3 red wires. 1 black and 1 red are coming from the battery, while the other two pairs are going to the input/output plugs. The red wire from battery should go on the BOTTOM POST of the switch, the other 2 red wires should go on the middle. This will put the switch on the positive side. The 3 black wires can be connected to the ground post, this will also provide the ground for the LED in the switch."
Thanks for the response.
When you say bottom post I am guessing you mean "Load"? The rest I think I understand. Also with this wiring configuration. I still charge the brik the original way. I turn on the switch and then plug in the charger?.?.

I am paranoid about Short Circuits. (great movie BTW). I actually have all the wires covered until I am actually ready to make a solder connection then heat shrink it....
#4930426
Yes, bottom in your image, load. The switch opens and closes the circuit between the load post and the middle/LED post. When the switch is closed (on) it will provide power from the battery to output plug and also connect the charging plug, so yes, the switch will need to be ON to charge the battery in this setup just like before.

You may want to add another switch between the battery and your electronics so you can turn that off while charging.

Also, if you see the LED is always on, you can swap the red wires from the middle and load posts and that should fix that.
#4930430
Cool. Glad I could help! I used to install a lot of those type of switches in cars.

In my pack, I'm planning on wiring a double throw switch to toggle between power on (charging disabled) and power off (charging enabled).

Feel free to send me a PM if you run into any trouble with that setup.

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