You can see some of the imperfections of the rear grip here as well as the original colour of the resin showing through.
I'm keeping it fairly light, just getting the thrower to the point where it looks aged with some scuffs and dulling to the finish with the placement based on reference of the screen used throwers, toned down quite a bit to represent a look closer to mid production wear instead of 37 years of weathering as seen today. I'm also using some fullers earth to age it down a little and get rid of that factory fresh paint look.
From there it'll be left to weather naturally with the rest of the pack.
JWils23 wrote: ↑March 27th, 2021, 6:42 pm Right now when I flip the activate switch it turns the pack on and the arcolectric lights on the thrower but not the bar graph. Then when I flip the vent switch the light and bar graph come one. I’d like it to be accurate to the movie where the bar graph is scrolling before the vent light comes on.I'm not sure if you've since figured this out, feel free to ignore this if you have.
Here's how to get what you're looking for.
After flipping the activate switch, once the wand has had a second or two to fully "boot up" press the intensify button.
This will switch the light sequence, illuminating the forward hatlight next to the clippard, the slo-blo and giving you the scroll on the bargraph without having to flip the vent switch instead of the bargraph being off, the slo-blo on and the white arcolectric and forward hatlight flashing alternately (which is the default for some reason).
You can also press the red gunear button at this point which will toggle illumination for the orange gun ear hatlight.
This is basically a safety or standby mode where the push buttons only function is to select standby light sequence options.
Once you hit the vent switch the safety is off and the thrower will fully boot up, acting as normal and changing the push buttons functions to fire and secondary fire or venting etc depending on your desired setup.
The wand will also save your selected standby lighting sequence once you turn it off, providing it is still receiving power from the battery.
My descriptive powers aren't great so I'll try to take a video in the morning to illustrate the point.
It shows that the bellows in the first movie was attached only to the bumper and not bolted through the cyclotron with a large bolt and spacer as they appeared from GB2 onwards.
So I had to remove the large bolt and spacer then reattach the bellows using a hex bolt and a hole to fill in the cyclotron.
I used some epoxy putty, blended in to match the texture as closely as I could.
It'll need a bit of satin black paint to fully blend it in once the putty has cured but after that and some dust settling back on that spot it should be pretty much invisible.
l3w1sb159 wrote: ↑April 17th, 2021, 11:05 am Another thing to remember when I come to build a GB1 pack. Thinking about it though, it could prove a bit more complicated to get the bumper centered and spaced over the cyclotron without that bolt?It shouldn't be.
Its very aparent when the bumper is off centre due to the way the edge lines up infront of the cyclotron lense holes.
Just drill the mounting holes for the bumper in between the first and second plates on the right hand side and between the third and fourth on the left hand side and it should align nicely
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