After letting the motherboard paint dry for about 2 weeks I had some time to get it back out and start putting it all back together. I needed to add the foam at the top of the mobo and then the big red danger sticker. I eyeballed a lot of screen shots on the placement of both the foam and danger label. It looked like all of the foam started about an inch(ish) in from the rivets on the power cell so that is where I started mine. I kept mine a little bit fatter (taller?) than it looks like the screen used packs had but that is because I have a "planet head" as my wife says so I need all the protection I can get. When it came to the danger label I didn't put too much stock into it being perfectly straight or in an exact spot as it seems all the labels from the reference shots are slightly different and/or slightly crooked. This is one of the labels from Arrons kit, and I can't say enough about how great they are. Side note, but I also feel like the lights in my garage are playing tricks on the paint. It looks very even and consistent under normal light but the flourescants seem to make it look almost blotchy. I also rivited on my charging plate, it's one of the crooked Venkman plates that Nathan sells. I just used two 3/16 rivets, I'm sure it isn't exactly screen accurate but it's consistent with all the rivets I used on my pack so I'm okay with it.
Next was putting all the electronics back together and wiring it up. Because the LED kit that Doug sells has an extra converter that isn't with the normal LED kits I had to use a bigger slab of perf board than normal. This meant that one of the mounting holes would be directly behind the danger label and that would not be okay. Instead I drilled 3 holes to mount the standoffs and epoxied the final to the inside of the mobo. This should be more than enough to keep it secure and also keeps my danger label nice and flat.
Mounting the GBfans soundboard, DC converter for the LED's, power cell lights and speakers.
Once that was done I added the cyclotron perf board, made sure everything was level and wired it to the board/power cell. My battery is the only thing that is not permanently secured right now. I have some really good double sided adhesive that I will use to secure that in its place. I also need to swing by the hardware store and pick up a 1/2" rubber grommet for the hole bringing in the wiring from the charging plate, the hole is a bit sharp and I don't want the wiring to rub on it.
And with that, the guts are almost all back together. I still need to do a little cable management and get them affixed to the mobo where I want them but I'll get there at some point. As a little bonus, I couldn't resist taking a quick video of the pack firing up. Of course since I'm into the little quirks of each pack, I had to make my cyclotron lights run counter clockwise like the Venkamn pack!
Have a minor update, I was able to swing by my hardware store and pick up a grommet to run the wiring from the charging plate in to the pack. Had to slice it to fit the wiring inside as the blue brick kit from Nathan comes ready to go with everything attached, but other than that quick install. Adds a clean look to it and keeps the wiring from rubbing on the aluminum! I don't think I'll wire up the XLR plug, it's more for show but I have the components to do it should I change my mind. Still debating on whether or not I'm going to run the light to the N-filter, it's a fun feature to do the overheat sequence but also not screen accurate so I'm conflicted...
Once that was done it was time to mount the alice frame on and put the shell back on, it looks like a real pack now!
Will need to do a little touch up as I have a slight gap on the mobo paint, but I'll wait until I paint the thrower before I do that and some other minor touch up on the shell.
And since this was the first time firing it up completely assembled, I felt I was obligated...
I'm going to speed up the lights to be closer to movie accurate but that's about the only tweak I have planned. Sooo now it's just waiting on my thrower to be finished...
Would you look at that I know what I'll be toying with this weekend! All the other thrower goodies are in the box, with the exception of the rear cylinder which RJ is finishing up right now.
Once that was done by I re-drilled and tapped the Clippard holes, the thrower comes drilled and tapped from RJ but mine was just slightly off and I couldn't screw both screws in but nothing I couldn't fix!
Next up was the bargraph, I have a kit from Doug and I picked up one of the new ones RJ started making figuring I'd decide which one to use once I had everything in hand. I ended up going with Dougs because it fits the GBfans bargraph better, but RJ's fits the thrower perfectly and no work would have been needed to make it fit. Dougs is slightly wider than the opening so I marked it and got out my trusty file and went to work. After about 15 mins and multiple checks it fit like a glove.
After a quick run to my hardware store to get some extra socket caps and washers/nuts I started on mounting the female side of the V-hook to the gun track and then the track to bottom plate of the thrower. I'm still waiting on the discs but I added the socket caps as place holders for now.
I then spent way more time than I'd care to admit tinkering with the pop mech, but I finally got it set and it works brilliantly.
With that done I decided that was enough for today and put it all back togther and slung it up for the first time. I think I'm in love...
This final part of the build should go much quicker as I have all the components in hand with the exception of the rear cylinder and gun track discs, but those won't hold things up. Next up will be mounting the flashbulb in the acryllic tube and doing an electronics check before it gets stripped down for paint!
I then wrapped my tube in tape to help keep it from cracking when I drilled the holes for the wiring and the set screw. I eyeballed the positioning off the reference pics and other builds on here. I also didn't want a ton of flashbulb sticking out of the tip so I set it so just the very end extends beyonds the tube.
I then took a circular file I have for my chainsaw and filed a small groove in the side of the base of the flashbulb. The bulb base fits tightly in the arylic so and I wanted to be able to run my wiring back up beside it and out of the tube around the halfway point.
I then fed the wires through the hole I'd drilled and set the base in the tube, here you can see where the wires feed back up in that channel.
Next was the set screw, I would have liked this to be hidden under the trigger tip ring but to keep the end of the trigger tip lined up with the end of the barrel the set screw would have been too high and missed the base. So I did my best to hide it by placing it at the bottom of the barrel, and if it bugs me I could move the trigger tip down just a bit and cover most of it it but we'll see.
I then ran the wiring through the first banjo, red tubing and into the second banjo. I eyeballed the length on the red tubing but does it look like it might be a little bit too much?
Next up I need to drill the hole into the wand body for the ear/flashbulb wiring to run into. Then do my final work on mounting the handles and strip it all down for paint. Though it's in the 90's here for the next few days so probably no paint until next week.
tobycj wrote: ↑April 30th, 2021, 5:29 am Brilliant stuff! You could see the set screw for the acrylic holder on the real ones, so you're all good on that front. Only feedback would be I'd try and shorten the length of the wiring hanging down in the clear tube, as you're going to disassemble before paint presumably that's simple to sort.Thank you! That’s good news, I had been looking at reference pics but I didn’t see any with the set screws. I must have missed them! Yea I’m going to pull a little more wiring through and try and clean that up when I break it down and put it back together. How does the length on the red tubing look? I feel like I might need to cut it down an inch or so.
Yep, I think I'd shorten the red tubing a little still.
Do you have any shots of the wiring? Just so I’m clear how it was done? Appreciate the feedback as always!
RedSpecial shared these with me too. You can just about make it out that it's not coming up right at the edge of the acrylic. There's some more good ref shots here too.
You can just see the wiring being quite a tight loop at the very bottom of this pic too, it certainly doesn't go past the frosted section in any of the reference photos I've seen so far though.
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