[mburkit]

Not that this is a build thread, but just research of parts for the Afterlife/Phoebe pack; I still wanted to share photos of my own personal build. I feel it is a good representation of where all the bits and bobs go without the pack being painted up and weathered heavily.





And here are the switch plates mounted on the shell and ion arm (respectively).

Plate for the Heinemann Electric 70-592A Circuit Breaker 1Amp 115v in the crank gen


Plate for the Leviton 15 amp Single-Pole Toggle Light Switch in the ion arm

[One time]

Is that the standard yellow ripcord or the fluorescent/neon yellow version?

[mburkit]

Is that the standard yellow ripcord or the fluorescent/neon yellow version?

1/2" Neon Yellow and Black.

[thekid]

Looking great! What size P-Clamp did you use? My 1" is tight and I'm wondering if 1.5" is enough. Where did you get the color wires coming out of the Gearbox's split loom?

Not that this is a build thread, but just research of parts for the Afterlife/Phoebe pack; I still wanted to share photos of my own personal build. I feel it is a good representation of where all the bits and bobs go without the pack being painted up and weathered heavily.





And here are the switch plates mounted on the shell and ion arm (respectively).

Plate for the Heinemann Electric 70-592A Circuit Breaker 1Amp 115v in the crank gen


Plate for the Leviton 15 amp Single-Pole Toggle Light Switch in the ion arm

[mburkit]

Looking great! What size P-Clamp did you use? My 1" is tight and I'm wondering if 1.5" is enough. Where did you get the color wires coming out of the Gearbox's split loom?

I used a GB1 accurate p clamp. I believe they are 1.5".

As far as the bundle of wires coming out of my gearbox loom, I just went digging through my electronics misc box and found most of what I needed. Technically there should be 2 orange wires in the bundle, but I didn't have that. I had 2 different shades of red and the lighter colored one I took some sand paper to, to lighten them up more.

[halliwax]

Wicked progress man!

Saw this video shows a few angles of the pack

But also around 9:50 in shows the pke wings going into full stunt mode

[DJ Chewie]

So I had a friend look at this and he does not think it's a real hose but a made up one. The way the information is printed onto the hose looks stenciled to him and not heat transferred on in the traditional methods used on things like hydraulic hose. With that in mind I have recreated the stencil and will be making a hose replica for mine. The gf is currently weeding it out for me now.

Alright guys I need your help, put your detective hats on and lets ID this exact hose

It's most likely a Hydraulic Hose
It's Type 18752-DC -"This specification also requires spiral hose to exceed one million pressure impulse cycles according to ISO 18752 hose grade D, type DC."

SAE rated at either 100, 1000, or 10000 psi (electrical tape unfortunately partially covers this spec)

Says "Performance" on it

[mburkit]

So I had a friend look at this and he does not think it's a real hose but a made up one. The way the information is printed onto the hose looks stenciled to him and not heat transferred on in the traditional methods used on things like hydraulic hose. With that in mind I have recreated the stencil and will be making a hose replica for mine. The gf is currently weeding it out for me now.

I highly doubt that would have created their own hose like that. And my argument that it is a found part is that you can see its not the same on every Phoebe pack. Case in point, this hosing on the pack that Hasbro scanned for the Haslab pack is different in size as well as lacks the lettering. If they were taking the time to "make" their own hydraulic hose with a stencil, they would have put it on all the hero packs and not just one.

[GBfan77]

Nice build so far. Going to look amazing when finished. Just out of curiosity what are the dimensions of that heat sink? Length and width.

[mburkit]

Been doing more work on the mechanical cyclotron. Once I have everything more squared away, I will share part numbers and such. This is it running off a battery bank I created of CR123a rechargeable batteries. It is a little wobbly because I need a coupler to center the shaft of the motor in the drive pulley.

[gerard55]

Been doing more work on the mechanical cyclotron. Once I have everything more squared away, I will share part numbers and such. This is it running off a battery bank I created of CR123a rechargeable batteries. It is a little wobbly because I need a coupler to center the shaft of the motor in the drive pulley.

Whilst it looks good, do you not think you'd be better going the led pixel route so you're not driven mad by that whirring? The effect looks about the same as in the movie, if not a bit more intense.

[mburkit]

Whilst it looks good, do you not think you'd be better going the led pixel route so you're not driven mad by that whirring? The effect looks about the same as in the movie, if not a bit more intense.

I am trying to replicate what was in the actual Phoebe hero pack prop.



With that stated; there are rumors that they eventually swapped this out for a LED Neopixel ring. But since I haven't seen that yet, I wanted to replicate this version of the lights.

[gerard55]

I get what you're trying to do, i just think the noise would really get irritating after a while.

[Fett4real]

So I had a friend look at this and he does not think it's a real hose but a made up one. The way the information is printed onto the hose looks stenciled to him and not heat transferred on in the traditional methods used on things like hydraulic hose. With that in mind I have recreated the stencil and will be making a hose replica for mine. The gf is currently weeding it out for me now.

Alright guys I need your help, put your detective hats on and lets ID this exact hose

It's most likely a Hydraulic Hose
It's Type 18752-DC -"This specification also requires spiral hose to exceed one million pressure impulse cycles according to ISO 18752 hose grade D, type DC."

SAE rated at either 100, 1000, or 10000 psi (electrical tape unfortunately partially covers this spec)

Says "Performance" on it

Would you wanna share that stencil?

[mburkit]

This post may contain an affiliate link that helps support GBFans.com when you make a purchase at no additional cost to you.

Today, I want to make 2 posts. The first post will be to show a little about how the electronics in the hero pack worked. Please note that I do not plan on putting the RC controlled setting into my pack, so that will not be seen in my build photos.

The pack lights consist of 2 different parts: the cyclotron and the powercell.



The Powercell is pretty simple, so I'll get that out of the way first. It appears the Powercell was a strip of Neopixels and an Adafruit ItsyBitsy 3v 8MHz , or some other 3v version of an arduino pro micro. The powercell gets a 3.7v power from the battery bank of RCR123a batteries. I will explain the battery bank a little later.



The Cyclotron is the more interesting part of the pack lights, as we got spiny lights!



In actuality, it is not that difficult either from an electronic stand point. All you have to do is apply power to the motor and it spins. The only other aspect of it is that there is a DC Motor speed controller to adjust the speed at which the cyclotron spins, which I will talk about later.

The difficult part is the amount of scratch building of the light fixture and the disc that everything is mounted to. The gears are all gt2 gears for a 6mm belt. The motor I am using is a 1000rpm motor I got off Amazon. The light fixture is mounted on top of a slip ring. The light fixture itself is constructed from a ba15i bayonet socket with a counter weight mounted to the bracket. I ended up using a 1/8 NPT Threaded Male Adapter Nipple Fitting for the counter weight.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/B-K-1-8-in-Thr ... 1000505785

The speed of the the cycltron is controlled by a Gebildet Mini DC Motor Controller, found here:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YDGSFPG?ps ... ct_details

The last bit of the electronics would be the battery bank. Judging from image of the inside of the pack from the Tested video of Adam Savage touring the prop trailer, the battery bank appears to be a scratch built bank of RCR123a battery holders wired to achieve 14.8vdc (for the cyclotron and wand lights) as well as 3.7vdc (for the powercell).




The battery bank is accessed through a panel on the motherboard.

I am assuming this is so the batteries can be removed for recharging. You can also reach the knob for the DC motor speed controller, to fine tune the speed of the cyclotron.

When all brought together, we get electronics that function like this:

[mburkit]

This post may contain an affiliate link that helps support GBFans.com when you make a purchase at no additional cost to you.

My second post will be about the neutrona wand. First and foremost, I want to state that FreekyGeeky/Umoribawar/RJ from our community was the individual that crafted the aluminum wands for the Afterlife production. Knowing this, I personally pulled my FreekyGeeky wand off one of my other packs, and retro-fitted it into an Afterlife wand.

Honestly, most of the wand is very similar to a traditional GB1/GB2 wand. From my understanding, the hatlights were 3D printed, and I believe the slow blo and the top blinking light appear to be LED Cliplites. I ended up using real hat lights and I eventually switched my arco-electric lamps over to Cliplites (just not in most of these photos).

The most interesting aspects of the Afterlife wand are on the front handle. There is a crooked trigger hook and the flash bulb assembly has been replaced by a car LED Back up lamp, found here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08R8FC6JM?ps ... ct_details. It appears they replicated Nycoil banjos ala GB2 for the wand as well.

But the thing I am most interested in and will be sharing about for the rest of this post is the shotgun foregrip. I have yet to ID the correct grip. But I have found something that I think is darn close.




This is a Golden Eagle M870 Gas Pump Action Shotgun Real wood Handguard for an Airsoft shotgun. It can be purchased from here: https://airsoftgogo.com/en/product/prod ... 0S8MReMsi0

While it can be crafted into a pretty convincing replica of what is seen on the Phoebe, as I will be sharing with your shortly, it is not exact. The ribs are a different size, resulting in only 21 ribs being present on my build (once modified) verses the 23 found on the film prop.

Once you have the wooden grip from Hong Kong, you then have to do a ton of grinding and sanding and shaping until you get something more like this:



After shaping it, I had to stain it, add rivets, and weather it.

I ended up staining mine with this wood stain I had laying around from another project. I believe I purchased it from Lowes.


Here is the grip once stained.


For the rivets, I used these double cap rivets I picked up from Joann's Fabrics.


I then darkened them with brass ager, which I also had laying around from a previous project.

Notice before and after the chemical bath.

After drilling holes and gluing in the rivets, I then weathered the grip. This is what I ended up with.




And how it looks with my in process pack build:

[Jimsy33]

This post may contain an affiliate link that helps support GBFans.com when you make a purchase at no additional cost to you.

My second post will be about the neutrona wand. First and foremost, I want to state that FreekyGeeky/Umoribawar/RJ from our community was the individual that crafted the aluminum wands for the Afterlife production. Knowing this, I personally pulled my FreekyGeeky wand off one of my other packs, and retro-fitted it into an Afterlife wand.

Honestly, most of the wand is very similar to a traditional GB1/GB2 wand. From my understanding, the hatlights were 3D printed, and I believe the slow blo and the top blinking light appear to be LED Cliplites. I ended up using real hat lights and I eventually switched my arco-electric lamps over to Cliplites (just not in most of these photos).

The most interesting aspects of the Afterlife wand are on the front handle. There is a crooked trigger hook and the flash bulb assembly has been replaced by a car LED Back up lamp, found here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08R8FC6JM?ps ... ct_details. It appears they replicated Nycoil banjos ala GB2 for the wand as well.

But the thing I am most interested in and will be sharing about for the rest of this post is the shotgun foregrip. I have yet to ID the correct grip. But I have found something that I think is darn close.




This is a Golden Eagle M870 Gas Pump Action Shotgun Real wood Handguard for an Airsoft shotgun. It can be purchased from here: https://airsoftgogo.com/en/product/prod ... 0S8MReMsi0

While it can be crafted into a pretty convincing replica of what is seen on the Phoebe, as I will be sharing with your shortly, it is not exact. The ribs are a different size, resulting in only 21 ribs being present on my build (once modified) verses the 23 found on the film prop.

Once you have the wooden grip from Hong Kong, you then have to do a ton of grinding and sanding and shaping until you get something more like this:



After shaping it, I had to stain it, add rivets, and weather it.

I ended up staining mine with this wood stain I had laying around from another project. I believe I purchased it from Lowes.


Here is the grip once stained.


For the rivets, I used these double cap rivets I picked up from Joann's Fabrics.


I then darkened them with brass ager, which I also had laying around from a previous project.

Notice before and after the chemical bath.

After drilling holes and gluing in the rivets, I then weathered the grip. This is what I ended up with.




And how it looks with my in process pack build:

Fantastic job !!
It's looking amazing !!

[tcollt]

Hello, I just wanted to see if this set of parts will work and also share the links I found to them.

MS3106A16S-4P
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Am ... X1WQ%3D%3D

MS3102E16S-4SX
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Am ... ebWw%3D%3D

This last section will be more of a discussion of alternative parts. You'll see why in a second. . .

Cannon MS3102E16S-4S Connector
(Connector with the Grey 2-pin Insert)


So, why did I mention alternatives? Well, from my understanding, they used the MS3102E16S-4S connector on the new proton packs. The accurate connector piece, which is attached to the split loom/breathing hose assembly, is SUPER rare. So rare, in fact, supposedly production had to cast the ones they had to have them on all the packs. I've only seen 1 photo of one in private hands (sadly, I cannot share that photo).

With all of that being said, there are less accurate alternatives out there; specifically more modern connectors. So I will share some photos of those, as I have been hunting and purchasing parts for over the last year, or so.

If you plan on using this type of fitting, let me explain the part numbers for you. The example part number I will use is: MS3106A16S-4P (this size connector will connect to the screen accurate socket)

"MS3106A" is the model type of connector
"16S" is the size of the connector
"4P" is the number and pattern of the electronic connector inside the fitting. "S" stands for socket and "P" stands for plug.

So if you you have part number MS3102E16S-4S as the socket, you will need MS3106A16S-4P to fit that plug. For most people, the most important part of your search will be the "16S-4P" part of the part number, as that will let you know if your parts will fit together.

With all of that said, let me show you some examples of alternatives I have found so far. This parts work, but do not look exactly the same as the screen used part.

Here is one version of the connector that fits with my socket with the plug insert with 7 pins.


Here's another.


They can be torn apart as well. The parts are all interchangeable, as long as they are the same size connector.


If I ever get more information about the accurate plug, I will post it here.
With that, happy hunting!

[mburkit]

I am no expert on those, but from my cursory look at your links, they look like they will work.

[Fett4real]

What do you think what kind of little Hexhead screws are used for it? The cable diameter looks almost the same like the heads.
I think it’s #2 unc, so the cable should be a AWG 14 silicone wire in brown?

Can anyone confirm that?

I don't think they are hex head bolts, as there isn't really any shape. I think they are rivets, it looks like the wires were riveted from the inside of the pack.
Or maybe they actually are bolts, yes, but it looks like they damaged the hex shape on purpose.

Theyre 100% a hex head screw you can see it when you zoom in. The weathering deceives the eye. By the scale of everything and the only eyelets Ive found to fit right theyre 4-40 hex heads. And the wires are 16 AWG based on that. 14 is too big.

[mburkit]

Theyre 100% a hex head screw you can see it when you zoom in. The weathering deceives the eye. By the scale of everything and the only eyelets Ive found to fit right theyre 4-40 hex heads. And the wires are 16 AWG based on that. 14 is too big.

I went with 4-40 hex bolts on my build with 16 awg wire.

[Fett4real]

Theyre 100% a hex head screw you can see it when you zoom in. The weathering deceives the eye. By the scale of everything and the only eyelets Ive found to fit right theyre 4-40 hex heads. And the wires are 16 AWG based on that. 14 is too big.

I went with 4-40 hex bolts on my build with 16 awg wire.

SAME! Im waiting for some clamps to come in as the ones from Sir Charles were a bit too small for the wires.

[GBfan77]

[quote=Fett4real post_id=4965091
Theyre 100% a hex head screw you can see it when you zoom in. The weathering deceives the eye. By the scale of everything and the only eyelets Ive found to fit right theyre 4-40 hex heads. And the wires are 16 AWG based on that. 14 is too big.

[/quote]

Speaking of those wires, how are they laid out on the pack? I'm having some difficulty figuring it out. I can see where some of them go but not all of them.

[Fett4real]

Not sure if this helps. Red wires are the tan and the black are black.

[GBfan77]

Not sure if this helps. Red wires are the tan and the black are black.

This Helps plenty. Thanks. But I didn't know there were black wires. There's so much grime it's hard to tell. Thanks again.

[Ecto_1X]

Thanks, I freakin hate Facebook. I should look up “freakygeeky” exactly?

https://www.facebook.com/FreekytotheGeeky

There's the link to his facebook page. I've had the most luck contacting him there.

Beyond that, I wanted to share another part ID of sorts. The ALICE Frame padding.




The inner layer I have here is the Black ALICE frame padding that GBFans sells in the shop here: https://www.gbfans.com/shop/pack-parts/ ... e-padding/

I then wrapped that padding in 6mm Neoprene rubber sheet with black fabric material. This is the same stuff they make scuba suits out of. I had to find 6mm thick stuff on Ebay and it came from China. Maybe someone can find a better source for it.

What did you use to glue the Neoprene onto the insulation?

[Fett4real]

Not sure if this helps. Red wires are the tan and the black are black.

This Helps plenty. Thanks. But I didn't know there were black wires. There's so much grime it's hard to tell. Thanks again.

You can tell theyre black wires because the white writing on them is there...

[mburkit]

What did you use to glue the Neoprene onto the insulation?

I used Super 77 spray adhesive.

[Nate42]

I think we found the correct lamp.





Just a quick mock up, the heat shrink tubing should be milky white instead of clear and a little thicker, they have cut the contact plug to half the length, but I think we got a perfect match!

The lamp is very bright, powered by a 12v 10,000 mAh mini UPS backup battery, you won't look at it directly.


https://i.imgur.com/cTEOWrb.mp4

How is the light wired to flash when firing?

[c.fago]

If you mean wired to the gbfans wand light kit via the Auxiliary connection, I haven't tried it yet but I'm pretty sure it would be less bright. I already wired a similar 12V led lamp via the Wand Tip connection to replace the wand tip expansion kit or the original 10mm RGB led. Since these connections only supply 3 volts, a 3 to 12V voltage booster is required, but even so the output power is not enough to get the full brightness of the lamp. A way should be found to run it directly at 12V. By eye I would say that through the Aux connection/voltage booster it can reach just a little more than half of its full brightness.