[tobycj]

How's it feel wearing it with the snaps through the face pad?

[edspengler]

How's it feel wearing it with the snaps through the face pad?

Actually not bad! It is a significant improvement over no pad at all with the front heavy weight focused on the top of my nose or the weight of the goggles focused on those little points. The wide part of the snaps are imbedded deep enough into the foam that they sit lower than the surface of the foam, the rivet holds them tight. I guess time will tell, worst case swap out this pad for a real one temporarily for any long events.

Correction: the snap flat surface sits just above the foam surface, but are not uncomfortable:

[edspengler]

I ended up revisiting my face cushion since I wasn’t completely satisfied with the design. I ended up creating a file based on my original design and I cleaned it up to make it symmetric. Then used the cricut machine to cut a template based on the file. The foam is too thick to cut with the machine. I may revisit in the future by at least the face pad is now far cleaner.


I used the newly created template to cut the new pad, and again riveted in the snaps.


New pad installed and it looks much nicer! It is offset to the inside of the frame so it is not really visible when the goggles are being worn.


Other updates: I bought a vintage AN/PVS-5 case on eBay which should be arriving next week. I will use it to transport or store the goggles when not in use or on display. Also ordered a goggle display stand on Etsy to display them appropriately.

I will likely revisit this face cushion design soon, I can machine cut thinner foam, install snaps, and then cement another piece of foam to completely hide the snaps, stay tuned!

[edspengler]

Meanwhile, the case arrived today and it will compliment this build perfectly. The interior lens foam will need to be cut to accommodate the prop lenses as they differ significantly from the original NVG lenses. Although the case was never featured in any of the films, it would make sense that the goggles would need to be properly stored when not in use or riding in ECTO-1. I am also pleased that the case says AN/PVS-5 and not 5A, 5B, or 5C… so it would be “correct” in universe. This will be a great case for when my goggles are not in use or on display.


Next to my holstered pke for fun

[edspengler]

I got around to cutting the foam out in the case today, probably real OG toxic stuff. Overall the case and interior are in great shape for the age. It was a process of trial and error to get the lenses to fit into the foam base, but it’s done. I also added a nylon strap into the lid to hold the instruction manual that was packaged with the goggle frame. I will also store the other set of clear lenses in the case. This is a great storage/transport solution if you can find one in good shape at a decent price, otherwise I would go for a pelican.

[Bootlegger137]

My frame arrived the other day, so finally starting my build!

Didn’t get the instruction manual, though.

[Stroudy]

Very nice!

[edspengler]

I ordered a display stand from Creative3DPrintingCA on Etsy and I am beyond pleased. This base is designed for the Matty Collector goggles but compliments my build perfectly and displays them as they are meant to be seen. Highly recommend this stand if you are looking to display your goggle build.

[Namssorg]

Of course everything came in ridiculous quantities so I have more than I will ever need.

I'm currently doing a similar build! Any chance I could twist your arm into sending me some spare bits?

[edspengler]

Of course everything came in ridiculous quantities so I have more than I will ever need.

I'm currently doing a similar build! Any chance I could twist your arm into sending me some spare bits?

I have been doing limited runs of 84 style goggle straps, check out my page on Facebook: Engine 23 Props. I am working on getting a second run of straps out, if you follow the page you’ll know when they will be available.

[Bootlegger137]

Not going to post a whole thread when I’ve basically copied Ed’s build.

But for the placement of the screws I did things a little differently.

I copied one of the images of original goggles, adjusted the brightness and contrast, etc, and figured out what percentage to print it. Then used that as the locator for the screws. Not 100% perfect, but close enough for my needs.




Also, had a little melting from removing the top snap in the GBFans frames, but it’s minor and will be hidden by the straps that Ed is selling.

Ed…thanks for such a thorough build thread!

[darthbuster]

I received the webbing, snaps, D-rings, and web adjustments today. The webbing has the perfect thickness and flexibility to be able to double up at the side snaps and the D-rings are the perfect size (I checked measurements before ordering but I am still pleased they actually fit the strap nicely). Of course everything came in ridiculous quantities so I have more than I will ever need. I am feeling optimistic about this task. I am shooting to make a a strap that can be adjusted vs something that is made to my exact size.


Quick test run was a success! The actual tool takes a lot of force, the the snaps are rock solid and fit the goggle snaps perfectly! Lucky for me I have vise grip hands of death so it wasn’t too big of a challenge.



I will need to figure out how (if possible) to correctly incorporate the D-ring into the frame as the frame has the snap preinstalled. For the sake of testing I can insert a snap into a D-ring to be able to snap it to the frame, for the record - THIS IS NOT ACCURATE, from the movie stills, the D-ring appears to be screwed directly into the frame.

Thank you for posting your process. I’m on this CB part now and I’ve found it a real pain. Following your method

[darthbuster]

This build is easily my quick reference for my build. I’m working through some issues with the straps and electronics on my build. What voltage leds are you using with your setup? Sorry I’m advance if i missed it in one of your posts.

[Namssorg]

This has been such a fun build to follow! Do you mind sharing your source for the various snaps/sizes + D-ring? I’m in parts gathering mode right now and hardware is next on my list.

I know the GBfans frame comes with snaps, but is there a good match for those if we go another route?

We really should start some sort of “Extra Hardware Bits” exchange with all the mass quantities of extra stuff we all end up with.

A few years ago I did quit a lot of strap fabrication for a backpack I was designing, and I have a ton of spare parts from that, but nothing right for the goggles.

I’ll likely end up buying one of your straps!

[edspengler]

This build is easily my quick reference for my build. I’m working through some issues with the straps and electronics on my build. What voltage leds are you using with your setup? Sorry I’m advance if i missed it in one of your posts.

I don’t have any electronics yet, I am waiting for the set from Pixel Props Store that will fit the GBfans frame. If you haven’t seen it yet, check it out!

[edspengler]

This has been such a fun build to follow! Do you mind sharing your source for the various snaps/sizes + D-ring? I’m in parts gathering mode right now and hardware is next on my list.

I know the GBfans frame comes with snaps, but is there a good match for those if we go another route?

We really should start some sort of “Extra Hardware Bits” exchange with all the mass quantities of extra stuff we all end up with.

A few years ago I did quit a lot of strap fabrication for a backpack I was designing, and I have a ton of spare parts from that, but nothing right for the goggles.

I’ll likely end up buying one of your straps!

Thank you for the compliment on the thread!

All of the snap sizes are standard, you can google “DOT snap” and get tons of results. The strap size is 3/4 inch wide. I arrived at that by measuring the real strap and inspection of the film still shots.

My strap is nylon, I know some users prefer cotton. I did not use cotton because nylon offers higher long term tensile strength. Cotton webbing is primarily used for sewing applications on garments. Polypropylene is also an option, but has less tensile strength than nylon. The upside of polypropylene is that it is meant for wet applications where nylon is not. All of my research into material applications pointed to nylon as the best material to use. Note, cotton may offer a different aesthetic result, but I do not see it being used for this application. I chose a thin nylon to more closely match the aesthetic of those that chose to use cotton.

[Stroudy]

Stunning

[Cam Gilchrist]

Ed,
Thank you so much for sharing your build. I am embarking on my own. Can I ask what size screws you used for the missing top screws? Also your source for them and the thumbwheel would be a great assist.
Thanks,
Cam

[edspengler]

One detail I wanted corrected finally became reality and I am super thrilled with it! A while back I had reached out to Mike at Moby Sign Co with some suggestions to modify his side decal based on the historical photos of the AN/PVS-5 frame. He graciously took the suggested changes to heart and came out with a new decal! Here is the new decal and I couldn’t be happier!


I had also shared some measurements of the vintage case label and he not only reproduced it but made a new one that I added to the side of my case.


Goggles are back on the shelf until the electronics become available

[Namssorg]

That sticker looks incredible!

[edspengler]

The final piece for this build is finally in place! I received the goggle electronics kit from Pixel Props Store last night and I am so happy with it! There are two options, the unassembled version or the completed version. I opted for the completed version, only because I already have so much in the build queue. The assembled kit is shown below:


I had to grind down a bit of the printed insert to get it to fit with the screws I have in the top of the goggle frame. A cleaner solution could have been to drill into the printed piece and insert the screws through the frame into the printed piece. Here it is installed:


The lighting and display animations are absolutely perfect, they mimic what is shown in the ballroom scene. The bar graph display will change as the goggles are moved around, it is controlled by a motion sensor. The green lights in the lenses can be set to solid on, pulsing on, or fully off. The screen can also be turned off. Let’s not forget the sounds! The sounds are perfectly done to match the ballroom scene! The sound can also be muted if desired.


All the options are controlled from two buttons that are below the screen. Jason, the owner of Pixel Props, is also a friend - he reached out to get the measurements of the bolt and thumbscrew for my goggle straps to make sure they fit in with the kit! Overall, I am so excited to see this build come to life.


It is a whole new ballgame to have a build with accurate lights and sounds. I know the lens lighting is not accurate, but it is still fun - the lens lights can be turned off if desired. The kit runs on an internally mounted rechargeable battery, which has a usb port on the inside of the goggles.

One last thing I have coming is a genuine NVG face pad, although it is not accurate it will be the most comfortable for trooping, my thinner face pad while having an accurate look is likely not as comfortable for long term use. Both pads have snaps so they are easily swapped out. I will keep the unused pad in the NVG case for these goggles.

Overall I am thrilled with how this build turned out! Thank you for all the kind comments and feedback. I got a good deal of direction from many community members on Spenglers 1984 Workbench, and that is all included in this build diary. I hope this diary will help others with their 84 goggle build.