This is for other Ghostbusters Props that don't fit into the categories above.
#5009048
Hello!
I’ve wanted to do a build thread for a while, and I figured it would be cool to start with a bit of an oddball prop.

As we all know, an essential part of a Ghostbusters costume is a ghost detection device. The Gasper’s Meter is an obscure example that is seen in the first movie, it is featured most prominently in the deleted Fort Detmerring scene. The real-world item that was used for the prop is an old blue Lamotte Conductivity Meter.

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The second I noticed this prop, I knew that I wanted it as my ghost detector. I really loved the look of it, and I have an affinity for lesser-known and unique props. I also knew that it would be nigh-impossible to obtain the accurate model for a fair price.

That being said, I’ve always been more interested in the creative process of researching and building props rather than hunting rare (and expensive) collectibles. Looking around I managed to find some great reference photos from an old auction (which are currently on the ghostbusters reference library), and an owner’s manual that has the dimensions for the exact model (this can easily be found online, just look up Lamotte DA-1 owners manual).

With all of my gathered info, I began by sourcing some parts.

This is the panel meter that I found for this build. Not exact, but pretty dang close. Goes 0-100 and has the nice mirrored strip seen on the movie prop. This is a Modutec size 3S panel meter that I found on ebay. While the movie accurate meter is slightly different, I have noticed that some later models do use this brand of panel mater, which is why it fits the dimensions of the box.

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Then came the knobs. These were an easy find, just some Alco knobs I got off of ebay. Mine were numbered instead of having the pointer, removed the numbers with some acetone and I will add the pointers later.

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That was basically it for found parts, next comes the homebrewed parts!
I began by making some SolidWorks models and drawings, the dimensions from the owner’s manual seemed to be slightly off when it came to the depth of the meter, so I did my best to match it to the actual meter.

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From there, I had to choose how I would make the main box. What I ended up doing was buying some aluminum parts with the appropriate dimensions in order to round out a sendcutsend order. Upon seeing more reference, the original meter looks like it was made of plastic, so aluminum will make it heavier, but it should work just fine.
Here is my progress on the box, the brass tubes will be tapped for the corner screws.

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Something else I cooked up for this build is the decals for all of the text on the meter. I tried using multiple online font identifiers to recreate the text, I found a suitable font for the text on the panel meter but not for the text surrounding the knobs, so I replicated that in MS paint. I’m planning on having these made into dry-transfer labels.

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That’s where I’m at for now! Pretty simple build for the most part, excited to finish it up!
Looking forward to seeing the progress of this site, and I hope to see more build threads like in the old days. I’ve gotten a lot of great information from all of the old build threads here, so I wanted to contribute some info about a bit of a lesser known prop. More to come!

-wirefauna
Last edited by Thatcrazysquidguy on April 28th, 2026, 1:53 pm, edited 2 times in total.
#5009088
100% onboard with this build, can't wait to see how it turns out!

As for the dry transfers, I've been in a similar situation with other custom props. I've printed my own film-free waterslide transfers successfully but I can't do white ink (that's a whole other rabbit hole).
For example, trap and tripod traps:
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I haven't found any affordable way to do white, every site that I've found seems to charge a lot more than I'm prepared to pay (it's not like I plan to open an Etsy store and sell dozens of these things).

I have access to a laser cutter at my local Makerspace, so this has helped a lot. You can buy sheets of two-tone plastic (eg Trolase, Rowmark LaserMax etc) with one colour on top and another underneath, then laser etch through to reveal the layer underneath.
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Another option is to etch acrylic, then paint it before removing the protective paper. I've had mixed success with this:
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I know it's possible to etch metal (depending on the type of laser), I haven't done this myself but others have engraved tags onto metal iPads and laptops successfully. In theory you could mask it off, engrave it, then paint it before removing the mask but it's not something I've tried. Getting sharp lines seems to be the hard part.

And the last thing I've looked into (but haven't actually tried yet) for simpler custom labels is Letraset (or other brand) Dry Transfer sheets, where you buy a whole sheet of numbers and letters and transfer them individually using a template.
There's a great video by Fran Blanche where she uses this technique on a custom electronics enclosure (honestly quite similar to what you're doing, except for the dial lines). It's tedious and you have to double check your alignment, but I quite like the authentic look of the very slightly misaligned characters.

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Anyway, maybe this helps, maybe not. If you go down the path of getting custom dry transfers made I hope it's not too costly!
#5009098
Not sure if it helps, but "printing white" is done using a dye sublimation printer. It's what plastic model folks have used since forever to print decals that have white, metallic, etc print on them that your typical inkjet or laser cannot. Perhaps knowing the name of the print technology will narrow your search.

Best of luck with the build!!
Thatcrazysquidguy liked this
#5009248
Small update!

I found a source for some white text transfers. This was sourced from HanPrinting on Etsy, this pack of 3 cost me 15$ (they are running a sale right now).

Very happy with these, they look great and are perfectly to scale!

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For the black text on the panel meter, I think I will go Chris’s method of using the transfer printer paper.

Making progress! More to come!
prodestrian, Rafaed liked this
#5009324
Well, this wouldn't be a wirefauna build without me having to do some annoying backtracking.

I got my box all filleted and polished.

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Went to go paint it aaaaaaaand.......

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Somehow, I managed to mess up both components in two different ways.

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I don't know exactly how this happened, but I suspect I did not prepare the surface adequately for paint, causing some weird reaction.

Whatever it is, I got a hot date with some acetone.
prodestrian liked this
#5009378
Rafaed wrote:I did something similar a few years ago and was never able to source the dry rub transfers. Would you be willing to sell any spares?
My current spares are spoken for, but I can send you my source file and you can get one from HanPrinting, they have a free shipping option. I’m also going to mod the decal file a bit to be a bit more accurate. 👌
#5009467
Thatcrazysquidguy wrote:Pretty simple build for the most part…
Boy if only you knew….

After some testing (more failed attempts) I figured out what was going on with the paint. Turns out I just wasn’t shaking the stupid paint can enough.

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After I got a good finish on the box, I went to apply my dry transfers. I am relatively inexperienced with transfer decals, so I thought it would be fine to put the whole sheet on at once.

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Resulting in this.

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I tried to salvage this since the transfers themselves were fine, but I failed. After some more acetone and well-shaken paint, I went for another go.

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This time I trimmed the edges so there was no overhang, and I left on some of the backing to minimize the amount of contact with the paint.

This was the result.

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Houston, we have liftoff.

All I gotta do now is pick up some hardware and I’ll have everything I need to finish this build!

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