User avatar
By csullivan1980
#4831543
Some more updates.

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This is the switch upgrade from the gbfans store. I had to take off some of the rings and nuts to get it to just for inside the trigger box.
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Not sure if this happened with anyone else but notice how the wire are touching the bottom of the inside of the box. It makes it a bit tricky to close up the trigger box completely. I was thinking of trying to bend the wire but I'm debating on doing that.

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It's nice to see this come together piece by piece.
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Last edited by Kingpin on April 25th, 2015, 10:28 am, edited 1 time in total.Reason: Fixed forum stretching
User avatar
By csullivan1980
#4831590
Very little time today to work on the thrower but made my own s-hook and disc to hold it in place.

I admit it's not pretty but not all that bad for a low cost option.

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Makes no contact with the pack, not bad.
Last edited by Kingpin on April 25th, 2015, 10:28 am, edited 1 time in total.Reason: Fixed forum stretching
User avatar
By csullivan1980
#4831629
As far as I can tell I've drilled all the necessary holes for the thrower. So what's next? Slapping on the paint.

Like my pack I'm using Rustoleum 2x Satin Black. I really like this color a lot because it's not too flat but had a small bit of shine.

One of the hardest areas to paint I notice is under between the instrument panel and where the aluminum tubing meets the gun box. Not easy to see so beat to paint in lots of light.

I'm looking forward to begin attaching all the bits and pieces I have so far until my lights finally come.

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Last edited by csullivan1980 on April 22nd, 2015, 7:00 am, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By Grimmy GB
#4831631
Chris... can you hit "enter" after each picture to put each picture on it's own line/paragraph? It's a bit hard to keep up with your posts when all of your pictures are side-by-side; it stretches your posts out massively.

And your thrower came out a nice sheen ^^
User avatar
By csullivan1980
#4831632
I'm primarily using tapatalk to upload my pictures because I've had no luck uploading through the GBFans forum. For some odd reason it doesn't like my computer and the Java setting are weird.

I'm using a MacBook running the latestest Yosemite. If you have any tips I'm all ears.
User avatar
By Grimmy GB
#4831633
csullivan1980 wrote:I'm primarily using tapatalk to upload my pictures because I've had no luck uploading through the GBFans forum. For some odd reason it doesn't like my computer and the Java setting are weird.

I'm using a MacBook running the latestest Yosemite. If you have any tips I'm all ears.
I'm sure that whatever device you are using has an enter button for spacing out the pictures; placing each in it's own row. I'm not sure how else to explain. Many people on here have used tapatalk and you're the only one that I've seen that has this issue.

I just use http://postimage.org/ when posting images. All this requires is hosting the images, copying and pasting the direct link, and use the image coding. I always make sure to space the pictures out with the enter key so it doesn't stretch the thread posts. I don't know if this helps at all.
User avatar
By csullivan1980
#4831634
Thanks Grimmy, I'll give that a try tonight. Hopefully it will work for me. Fingers crossed.

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Last edited by Kingpin on April 25th, 2015, 10:29 am, edited 1 time in total.Reason: Fixed forum stretching
Grimmy GB liked this
User avatar
By csullivan1980
#4831757
Thinking ahead but there isn't a way to disconnect the white ends of the switches (hpi micro connectors?) and lights from the gbfans kits are there? I'm thinking that wiring would be so much easier if we could take them off and on without having to drill huge holes just to feed them through parts.

I had to carefully open some holes in my TC because they were barely big enough to allow the end of the switch to mass through.
User avatar
By Parflagush
#4831770
csullivan1980 wrote:Thinking ahead but there isn't a way to disconnect the white ends of the switches (hpi micro connectors?) and lights from the gbfans kits are there?
Yes! That's what I did. You have to lift up the little white tabs on the connector and slide the contacts out. Then you can feed your wires through your narrow holes and then you can put the white connector back on. Just make sure to remember what order the wires were in.
User avatar
By csullivan1980
#4831771
Parflagush wrote:
csullivan1980 wrote:Thinking ahead but there isn't a way to disconnect the white ends of the switches (hpi micro connectors?) and lights from the gbfans kits are there?
Yes! That's what I did. You have to lift up the little white tabs and slide the contacts out. Then you can feed your wires through your narrow holes and then you can put the white connector back on.
You are my savior!!!!!!!!!!!!
User avatar
By csullivan1980
#4831781
Shout out to Parflagush for relieving a high headache for me helping me to ensure a clean look to my thrower. I can clearly see what he means about taking off the white connectors to switches and lights before drilling comically large holes into my thrower.

Now that I know I do not have to drill horizontally into my front grip ear anymore I can focus on getting parts properly fitted.

I bought two hat light sockets for the pack from the gbfans store and with a 5/16" drill bit drilled into the right hole. I then tapped the hole with a 3/8"-NF TAP thus securing it in place nicely.

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I plan to do the same with the trigger that goes on the same ear but will wait until it's in my hand before I drill any more holes. Now I'm feeling more confident about this part of the build and expect more updates in the days to come.

I do want to apologize to Grimmy but I might stick with uploading my photos through tapatalk using my iPhone. As great as your suggestion is to use and external site for me it's easier uploading like this when I'm on the go. Plus, I like seeing large HD photos even though it does make the thread blow up. For anyone who is a visual learner like me the more visual the better that show detail.

As always I appreciate everyone's feedback and kind words. Stay tune for more later.
Last edited by Kingpin on April 25th, 2015, 10:30 am, edited 1 time in total.Reason: Fixed forum stretching
User avatar
By MovieSean
#4831785
this thread is going to save me some serious headaches! i already drilled through the ear (womp womp) but now i can see what to do here!!! thanks man!
User avatar
By Parflagush
#4831787
Parflagush wrote:You have to lift up the little white tabs on the connector and slide the contacts out. Then you can feed your wires through your narrow holes and then you can put the white connector back on. Just make sure to remember what order the wires were in.
Sorry! I was at work and did not take enough time to explain that very well. In case you haven't figured it out, here are some photos to show you how it's done.

The "tabs" I am talking about restrict the metal ends from sliding out. They have a little tiny pokey on the top that catches on the tab. You need to lift the tab up enough so the metal connector with the pokey can slide out.

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I just use a little screwdriver to pull the tabs up. This allows the metal contact to slide out.

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Just gently pull on the wire and it should come right out. If it doesn't, the tab stopper is probably not lifted enough.

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Then just do the same to the other one.

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Make sure to remember which color wire goes where for when you put it back in. Once you've run your wires where they need to go, put it back together. You might have to press down on those tabs after replacing the wires to get them to stay, so the connectors will catch on the tabs again. Just give a gentle tug once they are in to make sure they won't fall out an you should be good.
PssdffJay liked this
User avatar
By csullivan1980
#4831898
In preparation for my GBFans wand lights/sound boards coming soon I pulled out the Alan Awkins template for the 4" speaker. I've yet to figure out exactly where on the pack I want to place it but I'm thinking it might be on the base of the back in the cyclotron area. This will be the first time I've ever hooked up my own speaker like this and am looking for ways to hook up a volume knob. Obviously I don't want the pack to be at full volume the whole time and want to save my hearing.

A while back through a facebook post I saw one of those "life hacks" and applied it to the GBFans 4" speaker. I figured this would be an excellent opportunity to help me line up speaker mounting holes without error.

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Last edited by Kingpin on April 25th, 2015, 10:31 am, edited 1 time in total.Reason: Fixed forum stretching
User avatar
By csullivan1980
#4831924
Fitted the rear grip onto the thrower looks great now that it's painted. But it's not exactly center and off by a bit. I had to eye-ball it when I drilled the holes at the time. It's not horribly off center and I think I'll live with it. No such thing as a 100% perfect pack.

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Last edited by Kingpin on April 26th, 2015, 6:29 am, edited 1 time in total.Reason: Fix forum stretching
User avatar
By csullivan1980
#4831990
Major updates today! A couple of the dry rubs aren't center but like the rear grip I'll live. Enjoy, I'm almost at the home stretch!

One unusual tip that I do have is for getting the green hose on all the way. I like my green hose to be all the way on the barb, so I discovered that Crisco or Coconut oil works great as a lube for getting the hose to literally slide on. I did try WD-40 first but it didn't work at all for me.

I also repainted my silver cooler and trigger tip with ACE hardware brand heat resistant Silver paint. This paint is awesome! After a quick prime, twenty minute dry and coat of silver I dried it with a hair driver and is 100% dry. I love the new look! Of course I'm trying to have a nice clean look but as the assembly process goes on small nicks and scuffs are appearing. BUT i'm okay with that, I know the thrower will ware faster than the pack itself.

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User avatar
By csullivan1980
#4832232
Today I only have a half day or work. So I plan to start working on the part of the build: the front grip.

I've been studying photos of this part of the build for ages and I think I'm going to keep this part as simple as possible.

I know that I will use shrink heat, I plan to drill and tap both holes and that there is a good change I'll leave the wand in the extended position.

The holes in the TC kit were always kinda bugging me. They didn't look positioned right. The left hold looked a bit too close to the weld and thinking ahead was concerned about the nut on the trigger button. So, with steel stick I fill and sanded the holes. I have to say I wish I used steel stick through the whole build looking back.

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I measured the ear 3/4" x 1.5" and made a template which I'll use to re-drill holes equally apart from each other.

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Naturally I tested it out before I'll drill into the ear.
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I later plan to prime it this afternoon.
Last edited by Kingpin on April 29th, 2015, 4:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.Reason: Fixed forum stretching
User avatar
By csullivan1980
#4832320
Hopefully by this time next week the pack will be near complete.

Tonight it hit the front grip with some paint and I'm gonna let it dry for 2 days before going over it again in a very light coat for extra protection.

Although there is one area that I couldn't figure how to hit with paint. Below the right ear and above the front grip. That little gap cut for the heat shrink. Hmmm. Tricky.

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Last edited by Kingpin on April 30th, 2015, 6:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.Reason: Fixed forum stretching
#4832689
The last of the parts arrived today! The home stretch! Image
#4832705
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Having fun but am stumped with sounds

I got the light kit connected to the amplified board. I want only to use the movie sounds but cannot figure out how to keep it as a proton stream.

I feel like I am doing something wrong here.
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I'd like to have proton stream sound with overhearing features.

I realize that when flipping the activate switch no matter what you'll have the gb theme play.

https://vimeo.com/127111635
User avatar
By MovieSean
#4832719
man still loving this build, my thrower electronics just shipped! I have a few questions,
1 are the clip lights easy to install?
2. how had was the bezel to assemble?
3. are you using all REAL hat lights or any resin ones?
4. How did you attach your vent light?

Once again AWESOME build!
User avatar
By csullivan1980
#4832721
@MovieSean

I'll be posting a more detailed "what I've learnt while building the TC kit" post later tonight which I hope will give you an detailed idea on what to expect for your build.

But to answer your questions:

1. yes, the clip lights were very easy. I used a dab of hot glue to keep the lights from falling out of place (especially the white one). I used hot glue because I can easily remove it with rubbing alcohol.

2. Bezel was not hard, but the decal was a bit tricky. Definitely use the micro film recommended in the instructions. The bezel hole in the TC kit will require some filing but don't go crazy.

3. I am using real hat lights for the front grip ear and one by clipped. I used the white one that came with the TC kit because it wasn't possible to get a real one in that spot.

4. Vent light, once again hot glue. It gives me the flexibility to remove it unlike super glue.
User avatar
By Grimmy GB
#4832723
Chris... Disconnect the power to the sound board. Flip all of your pins to "off". Re-connect power.

If you're using all GBFans electronics, pins 3, 5, and 6 are the only ones you want to flip "on" (on the sound board) if you want the movie effects with the constant hum. If you don't want the hum, turn off 6.
#4832765
@Grimmy

That helped and fixed my dilemma. I got VG sounds/colors on top of what I wanted and I dig it, but I am still struggling with how the orange hat light is suppose to function with each configuration.

Am I wrong or is the light suppose to stay on? In the current configuration is blinks between switching to the four different VG pack settings.
User avatar
By Grimmy GB
#4832771
I haven't seen my orange hat on the ear function at all. Maybe someone else can chime in on that one. I'm not sure when It's supposed to blink. Watch Phil's videos and see what his does.
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