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I get asked frequently for a list of parts necessary to build a replica Proton Pack.

Here are some links to items that are needed for the build:

Main Parts
-Fiberglass Shell
-Motherboard
-ALICE Frame
-Mounting Brackets
-Mounting Hardware (Bolts, Nuts, Standoff / Spacers).

Attachment Parts
-Booster Tube (Aluminum or ABS)
-Booster Frame (Resin)
-Booster Plug (Resin or built into Aluminum tube)
-HGA (Aluminum or Resin)
-Filler Tube (Aluminum or Resin)
-Beamline Tube (Aluminum or Resin)
-Vacuum Tube (Aluminum or Resin)
-N-Filter (Aluminum or one built into shell)
-Injector Tubes (Aluminum or Resin)
-Ion Arm (Aluminum or Resin)
-Bumper (Resin)
-Various Mounting Hardware (Bolts & Epoxy)

Accessory Parts
-Clippard Elbow Fittings (2 for GB1, 3 for GB2)
-Legris Elbows or SMC Elbow Fitting (3 required)
-Ion Arm End Cap (GB1 or GB2)
-Crank Knob (Resin or Replica)
-Legris Straight Fittings
-Dale PH-25 Resistor
-Dale RH-25 or Sage M25W or Pacific Resistor
-Dale RH-50 Resistor
-Clippard R-331 Valve (or R-701 if you prefer)
-Bellows
-Ribbon Cable (GB1 or GB2)
-Ribbon Cable Aluminum Hold Down Clamp
-Ribbon Cable Clamp (GB1: 1-1/4" or GB2: 7/8")
-Stickers (Standard & Metallic)
-Dry Rub Transfers
-ALICE Frame Padding

Tubing
-4mm OD Yellow Tubing (1 foot)
-1/4" OD Red Tubing (2-3 feet)
-1/4" OD Blue Tubing (2-3 feet)
-1/4" Split Loom (1-2 feet)
-3/4" Split Loom (4-5 feet)

Electronic Parts
-Amplified Sound Board
-Power Cell & Cyclotron Light Kit
-Power Cell Connection Ribbon Cable
-Speaker
-Battery
-Wire (for speaker and battery connection)

See also wand parts for more.

Proton Wand Building List

Main Parts
-Proton Wand Body
-Handles (PVC or Aluminum)
-Wand Grips
-Rear Instrument Box
-Side Switch Box
-Front Handle "Ears"
-Front Cylinder
-Rear Cylinder

Accessory Parts
-Front Knob
-Side Knob
-Top Knob
-Side Discs (GB1: Smooth or GB2: Knurled)
-Heatsink
-White Hat Light (1 or 2 depending preferred style)
-Orange Hat Light (1 or 2 depending preferred style)
-Hat Light Socket (3 recommended)
-Red Arcolectric or Cliplites
-White Arcolectric or Cliplites
-Clippard R-701 Valve (or R-331 if you prefer)
-Acrylic Tube
-Trigger Tip (Welded or Machined)
-Legris Banjo Fittings (2 required)
-Clippard Hose Barb Fittings (2 required)
-Dry Rub Transfers

Tubing
-1/4" OD Green Tubing (1 foot)
-4mm OD Red Tubing (1 foot)

Electronic Parts
-Wand Electronic Light Kit
-Wand Electronic Ribbon Cable Connection
-Vibration Rumble Motor (optional)

Thank you so much for this! Just in time for my first build too! Just bought the shell and motherboard from the GBfans shop.

I have some questions though:

- The Beamline Tube and the Filler Tube go to the same beam line shop page - what are the differences between the two?

- The bellows is the same as the shock mount, correct?

- What are the dry rub transfers? Just another option rather than stickers?

And can someone point me to the right direction to a thread or video of something attaching the shell or pack to the motherboard? Can't seem to find anything on that - or how to attach the electronics to the motherboard or how to position it inside of the pack? Any tips would help!

Thanks to everyone on the best board there is!

Edit: also a little clueless on how to attach the Aluminum Welded Booster Tube / Plug to the shell? Tried watching some videos but none of that has been included so far

Corey91 wrote: ↑February 24th, 2020, 10:47 amThe Beamline Tube and the Filler Tube go to the same beam line shop page - what are the differences between the two?

That was a typo in the link that has been corrected. The beam line tube has a tapped NPT 1/8-27 hole for a Clippard fitting, the filler tube is smooth with no hole.

Corey91 wrote: ↑February 24th, 2020, 10:47 amThe bellows is the same as the shock mount, correct?

The bellows is commonly referred to as a shock mount or ion knob.

Corey91 wrote: ↑February 24th, 2020, 10:47 amWhat are the dry rub transfers? Just another option rather than stickers?

They are a type of sticker that are basically a wax ink on a plastic sheet. You use a dull edge (like a finger nail) to actually rub or transfer the waxy colors on to another surface. They are more accurate than stickers and are mainly used on the wand and Ghost Trap pedal.

For the other things, I'd recommend checking out various people's build threads here on the forum: viewforum.php?f=2

Is there a list of what screws, nuts, fasteners etc are needed? Thanks!

I may be having a brain-fart, but I think the proton pack list is missing the three Dale resistors on the Ion arm.

• 1 Dale PH-25 Resistor

• 1 Dale RH-25 Resistor

• 1 Dale RH-50 Resistor

That was a big oversight! Added.

Let me know if anyone else finds something missing.

I have also added ALICE Frame padding.

Thanks!

Does anyone know what size screw goes in the Legris Banjo Fittings on the wand?

I believe it's an 8/32 Festo bolt.

Wish I saw this a year ago. But treasure hunt was fun
Think pack is missing 4mm red tubing.

RedSpecial wrote: ↑August 5th, 2021, 5:00 am I believe it's an 8/32 Festo bolt.

I think they might be 10-32 on the GBFans banjos? I'll check tomorrow if I remember!

Thanks! Id appreciate it!

We use a #10-32 banjo bolt supplied by Clippard.

Howdy, thank you for the list! I've been telling myself that I'm going to start a pack build soon and in preparation I've been working on as comprehensive of a part list as I can muster. I've been making the list as a callout out poster in Illustrator, have based it off of Stefan Ottos's plans, and have done a fair amount of research hunting down all the info. Right now it is only the pack but I'm starting on the wand next.

Here is a link to the updated poster. (To see at a higher resolution open image in new tab or download.)

Pack
https://imgur.com/cOXJ5NR
https://github.com/Tomdf/Ghostbusters/b ... out-01.png

Wand
https://imgur.com/EzWC9mB (Open image in new tab to zoom in)
https://github.com/Tomdf/Ghostbusters/b ... out-01.png

I've double checked it a few times but was hoping to get a few more eyes on it to check for errors. On top of needing the list for myself I'm kinda hoping that the community can get some use out of it as well, if so I can provide higher resolution images, pdf, and the original files.

PS: I believe the original pack part list here may be missing the Wand V-Mount, Cyclotron Lenses, and the Power Cell Lens, all sold on the GBfans site.

Neutrontopofit wrote: ↑January 1st, 2022, 3:02 pm Howdy, thank you for the list! I've been telling myself that I'm going to start a pack build soon and in preparation I've been working on as comprehensive of a part list as I can muster. I've been making the list as a callout out poster in Illustrator, have based it off of Stefan Ottos's plans, and have done a fair amount of research hunting down all the info. Right now it is only the pack but I'm starting on the wand next.

Here is a link to the poster. https://imgur.com/NHq59zg (To see at a higher resolution open image in new tab or download.)

I've double checked it a few times but was hoping to get a few more eyes on it to check for errors. On top of needing the list for myself I'm kinda hoping that the community can get some use out of it as well, if so I can provide higher resolution images, pdf, and the original files.

PS: I believe the original pack part list here may be missing the Wand V-Mount, Cyclotron Lenses, and the Power Cell Lens, all sold on the GBfans site.

Nice bit of work. Couple of bits I noticed:

The Clippard valve wasn't an R331 on all packs, some had an R701.
The elbows you've listed as SMC elbows were all legris brand, and SMC is a similar modern equivalent. I mention this as you've used the correct part number for the legris straights, even though they're also hard to find as vintage.
You might want to label the plug in the booster tube, as unless it's a metal welded booster tube this is a separate part in most kits.
You might want to differentiate between the clippard elbow on top of the ion arm for GB1/2. Ditto the screws on the bumper.

Hello,

With the comments of additions or changes is the lost the most up to date? Starting a build soon and I going to start going though this as a checklist for my pack?

Thank you

tobycj wrote: ↑January 1st, 2022, 6:26 pm Nice bit of work. Couple of bits I noticed:

The Clippard valve wasn't an R331 on all packs, some had an R701.
The elbows you've listed as SMC elbows were all legris brand, and SMC is a similar modern equivalent. I mention this as you've used the correct part number for the legris straights, even though they're also hard to find as vintage.
You might want to label the plug in the booster tube, as unless it's a metal welded booster tube this is a separate part in most kits.
You might want to differentiate between the clippard elbow on top of the ion arm for GB1/2. Ditto the screws on the bumper.

Ty! This is exactly the kind of help I need and it is appreciated. Making this list is basically my learning process and I was straight up unaware of most of the things you mentioned. I've gone through and added all of your edits and updated the link in my first post.

Ryanc3187 wrote: ↑January 2nd, 2022, 1:59 pm Hello,

With the comments of additions or changes is the lost the most up to date? Starting a build soon and I going to start going though this as a checklist for my pack?

Thank you

I've updated the list with the edits suggested. I'll be keeping the links updated with the most recent version. I am still learning about the pack and can't say with certainty that this is 100% accurate at this point. It is possible there will be future changes.

For part GM1 the screws (and possibly the whole male section as the angle changed significantly) were changed between films. GB1 had screws from inside the pack so you only saw the bottom of the screw, whereas GB2 was countersunk screws from the outside.

tobycj wrote: ↑January 3rd, 2022, 10:53 am For part GM1 the screws (and possibly the whole male section as the angle changed significantly) were changed between films. GB1 had screws from inside the pack so you only saw the bottom of the screw, whereas GB2 was countersunk screws from the outside.

Thanks! I've updated the link in my original post.

For the legris elbows they seem to have been 4mm for GB1 initially, and some of the GB2 packs (maybe only the semi heroes? Someone more knowledgeable than me will know) then had 5/32" legris fittings instead.

Hmm, that's a rough one. The best info I'm find on this is here https://www.gbfans.com/equipment/proton-pack/legris/ and it seems as though there are several different sizes of connecters used from movie to movie and from stunt to hero. From that info it seems that the 4mm was the most common so I think I'll list that as the main dimension and add the "5/32" in parentheses. It's worth noting that 5/32" converts to 3.96mm so for our purposes they are interchangeable.

Neutrontopofit wrote: ↑January 7th, 2022, 5:54 pm Hmm, that's a rough one. The best info I'm find on this is here https://www.gbfans.com/equipment/proton-pack/legris/ and it seems as though there are several different sizes of connecters used from movie to movie and from stunt to hero. From that info it seems that the 4mm was the most common so I think I'll list that as the main dimension and add the "5/32" in parentheses. It's worth noting that 5/32" converts to 3.96mm so for our purposes they are interchangeable.

Hello, is your parts breakout the most up to date as is stands? I just ordered a pack and this is going to be a great visual for me as I use it as a check list for what parts I need.

Thank you

I've just updated the link in my original post to the most up to date version (1.31). Hope it helps!

Neutrontopofit wrote: ↑January 12th, 2022, 7:57 pm I've just updated the link in my original post to the most up to date version (1.31). Hope it helps!

Thank you!

I'm done stitching together Stefan's plans and have a first draft of the Proton Gun / Neutrona Wand callout ready for examination.
Again, I really appreciate any help that can be given!
https://imgur.com/EzWC9mB (Open image in new tab to zoom in)
https://github.com/Tomdf/Ghostbusters/b ... out-01.png

There are a few things that I'm unsure of though:
1. This is where the barrel tube connects to the main body and I can't find a name for it anywhere. Anyone know if this part has a title?
2. Another item I've find no name for and no part on the store.
3. I'm assuming there is a set screw here but am unsure of the size.
4.Every picture I've found has a thin, metal plate on the bottom of the main body but Stefan's Plans don't have the plate. Is that an error in the plans or was there ever a time when there was no plate?

Neutrontopofit wrote: ↑January 24th, 2022, 8:13 pm I'm done stitching together Stefan's plans and have a first draft of the Proton Gun / Neutrona Wand callout ready for examination.
Again, I really appreciate any help that can be given!
https://imgur.com/8jMJ8J1 (Open image in new tab to zoom in)

There are a few things that I'm unsure of though:
1. This is where the barrel tube connects to the main body and I can't find a name for it anywhere. Anyone know if this part has a title?
2. Another item I've find no name for and no part on the store.
3. I'm assuming there is a set screw here but am unsure of the size.
4.Every picture I've found has a thin, metal plate on the bottom of the main body but Stefan's Plans don't have the plate. Is that an error in the plans or was there ever a time when there was no plate?

1. This is the other part of the main barrel that the front grip connects to. There is a smaller barrel runs inside both, and the barrel the grip connects to rotates around this for the twist grip. With the screw and brass spacer you've shown there, there were two, normally at 9 and 12'o'clock if you're looking down the barrel from the front. They were 6-32 socket cap screws, and only on the GB1 packs from the looks of it.
2. Not sure what the "official" name for it is, but it's the pop mech lever lock knob.
3. No, there is a threaded hole for a screw, but doesn't appear the screw was actually used in the end. It's shown quite well on the ultimate thrower plans
4. That's an error in Stefan's plans, there is a metal plate there, held down by B3-8 on your diagram.

There is also a countersunk 6-32 socket cap screw through E2 and going into the grip at an angle (15 degrees from memory). Shown on the ultimate thrower plans too.

tobycj wrote: ↑January 25th, 2022, 2:23 am 1. This is the other part of the main barrel that the front grip connects to. There is a smaller barrel runs inside both, and the barrel the grip connects to rotates around this for the twist grip. With the screw and brass spacer you've shown there, there were two, normally at 9 and 12'o'clock if you're looking down the barrel from the front. They were 6-32 socket cap screws, and only on the GB1 packs from the looks of it.
2. Not sure what the "official" name for it is, but it's the pop mech lever lock knob.
3. No, there is a threaded hole for a screw, but doesn't appear the screw was actually used in the end. It's shown quite well on the ultimate thrower plans
4. That's an error in Stefan's plans, there is a metal plate there, held down by B3-8 on your diagram.

There is also a countersunk 6-32 socket cap screw through E2 and going into the grip at an angle (15 degrees from memory). Shown on the ultimate thrower plans too.

I hadn't seen those ultimate thrower plans before, thank you. I've updated my original link with the new version. I did notice that the rear grip has rivets holding it to the handle but I am unsure of the exact size. Do you know what they are?

I hit a bit of a snag with this update after finding more differences between the gun track and some reference material. It seems like Stefan's track is shorter than the Murray pack and Super Hero. Up until this point I had assumed that Stefan's plans were very accurate and now I'm not so sure. Anyway, this led me to modifying the Gun Track in the drawings to make room for the S-Hook, which was also added. I also added the blue and green tubes.

I am wondering now if there is a "master set" of dimensional drawings or 3D models that I have missed. I did see that such a 3D project was started here on GBfans but was never finished. Right now I'm working off a mix of Stefan's Plans and Quentin Machiels' 3D print "MK2" pack. Are there any other complete plans or 3d models out there worth knowing about?

1. I left the bit about the 6-32 Socket Cap Screws being at different angles off because the other hole isn't seen on the drawing, I wasn't quite sure it was significant enough to add a hidden line for.

I used 3mm rivets for the rear grips, I think I eyeballed them to reference photos and they seemed closest.

I don't think there is a master set of plans anywhere unfortunately. Stefan's plans were the best available at the time I think, but there's been a lot more reference material come out since then, so there are definitely a few things that are incorrect on them.