User avatar
By mburkit
#4936368
The relay was epoxied on directly. The grey seen on screen is the epoxy that’s still visible on the pedal now. If you compare the height of the ITT off the Hammond there’s no room for a socket to fit.
Thank you for your "Zoom and Enhance" skills, namebrand. Yeah, in your image, it does look like it is just a bad epoxy job.
User avatar
By westies14
#4936369
Ben, I think the black base of the Hammond also gives the relay a sort of "floating" illusion. If you look for that black base edge though, it doesn't appear so high off the box. Any part of a socket would lift the relay off to the point of a clear mismatch, but it also seems that the pins aren't cut quite flush with the base of the relay. Their short, stumpy remnants are lifting the relay up just a little bit. The remaining hole in the Hammond box is cut to fit the relay's post, but you can also see the fossils of the pins circling it:

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It's possible that leaving the pins a little less than flush was intentional rather than sloppy, with the idea of giving the epoxy something extra to bite onto rather than just the flat bottom of the relay. Still, the thick epoxy application is par for the course on the GB1 pedal. If you go back to the ballroom image that had you questioning the height, you'll see the same thick epoxy application at the bottom of the spring hose as you see under the relay. It's used pretty liberally at the top of that hose and on all four feet as well!
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By Kingpin
Moderator
#4936372
Cheers Matt, John, Doug. I suppose that gives a bit of breathing room for people wanting to replicate the GB1 pedal but weren't having luck finding the socket.

That being said, I'm gonna see what mechanical options are available to fix that sucker down as after my N-Filter got knocked off years ago, I'm bolting down everything I can. :P
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By Coover5
#4936375
I feel so ready for Ghostbusters 3 to come out then a thread like this comes up and I'm schooled on my knowledge of GB1 and the equipment. There is still so much learning I have to do. I'm loving this.
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User avatar
By westies14
#4936376
If anyone is having trouble finding bases, I think I have several of them. I’m pretty focused on the GB1 props and won’t ever use them.

I’m with you on the mount, Ben! I think just yesterday I was lobbying for a (possibly overkill) screw where we aren’t certain one way or another so it’d have that mechanical connection, and John asked me what exactly I’m planning to do with this pedal... I think something could be done with the relay’s post to lock it down from the inside. Maybe it could be drilled and tapped, then given a bolt and washers. Alternatively, though it wouldn’t be technically correct, perhaps a couple screws could come up from the box and into the relay’s base - they could be hidden by the epoxy.
User avatar
By Kingpin
Moderator
#4936378
I think something could be done with the relay’s post to lock it down from the inside.
That's my feeling as well, something like the base of a bayonet fitting light bulb perhaps:

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-Maybe even work some kind of collar into the design.
By Nuclearjungle
#4936380
I've been working on my own GB1 pedal and trap lately and hadn't come to attaching the relay yet. Yikes, I'm not sure I want to permanently glue the only RM833212 I have to that thing.

It's not entirely accurate, but perhaps I'll mount a socket so that the metal wings are underneath the surface of the project box. That way just a tiny bit of the socket will be visible, and it'll blend in with the relay base.
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User avatar
By mburkit
#4936382
I’m with you on the mount, Ben! I think just yesterday I was lobbying for a (possibly overkill) screw where we aren’t certain one way or another so it’d have that mechanical connection, and John asked me what exactly I’m planning to do with this pedal... I think something could be done with the relay’s post to lock it down from the inside. Maybe it could be drilled and tapped, then given a bolt and washers. Alternatively, though it wouldn’t be technically correct, perhaps a couple screws could come up from the box and into the relay’s base - they could be hidden by the epoxy.
On my first pedal in this thread, I attempted to drill and tap the post on the relay and the plastic was so brittle because of how old the relay is, that it snapped the post off the bottom of the relay. I ended up having to take the base off the relay and a bolt/washer/nut through the post to hold it to the bottom of the relay. I do think someone could easily drill and tap a hole perpendicular to the orientation of the post and use that as a way for extra security; I just wanted to comment about my experiences with it so people know to be more careful than I was, hahaha. This experience also highlights another issue, which is if you make the post too secure in the project box, you run the risk of just snapping the post off the relay. With just epoxy, maybe there is a chance the epoxy would give before the post, letting the relay remain whole if it gets knocked around/knocked off the pedal.
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User avatar
By Prologic9
#4936396
Those center posts are always brittle on the relays, they have an almost ceramic quality to the plastic.

If you yank the pins out you've got all those holes to work with, I'm sure you could thread a couple of small zip ties through them.
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User avatar
By westies14
#4936397
This could be an easy solve for some - I'd want to get a longer screw if I did this to maintain the aesthetic, but it'd hold. Two corners of the relays are pre-drilled and tapped, and the epoxy should hide the trick if they were to come up through the Hammond and into the relay:

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By mburkit
#4936437
Got my second pedal done. Just need to find some way to get my hands on a vinyl version of that white label that goes on the side!

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Unless new info comes out or I find more accurate greeblies for either pedal (such as the electronic components), these pedals are pretty much done!
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User avatar
By Prologic9
#4936452
What model relay are you using?

I noticed the pin housing on the ITT relays are really thick, that's probably why it sits higher in the screenshots.

I've got a bunch of Omron mk3p5's, those and the recent shop relays are nearly flush with the base;

Image
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User avatar
By mburkit
#4936459
What model relay are you using?

I noticed the pin housing on the ITT relays are really thick, that's probably why it sits higher in the screenshots.

I've got a bunch of Omron mk3p5's, those and the recent shop relays are nearly flush with the base;
Honestly, I couldn't tell you what relays I used. The one on my belt hanger pedal I have had since 2010. I think it's a little tall. The one on the pedal I finished yesterday I think is closer to being right, but once again, these are not the exact manufacturer and p/n from what we ID'ed off the gb2 pedals. I pulled these out of boxes at a surplus junkyard.
User avatar
By Alex Newborn
#4936465
Lastly, the thing that I do want to replace is the label on the large box. I do not have the correct label on there now but I have not seen anyone make the one for the gb1 pedal. It sounds like this label was also on the ECU, so maybe at some point someone will sell a vinyl version of this? That would be awesome.


I did a homemade version of it a couple of summers ago. Just printed it onto adhesive backed paper and then laminated it with packing tape. If someone does a vinyl run, color me interested!

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I went with a hybridized conglomeration of details, but I confess I found myself highly enamored of some of the unique features of that pedal as seen in the Seattle MoPop. I even contacted a docent to take some additional pics of it, but because of the lighting and the glass of the display case, even her pics weren't much better than the ones found elsewhere in this thread. (And per their agreement with the person who loaned it, she couldn't change those parameters.)

I love the way you've constructed the pedal base. I will definitely be revisiting mine after seeing how this was done. I did add the resistor under the pedal, but I did not have the recessed groove for it.

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And I've got to replace my acorn nut with a bullet latch now, too! Luckily, I've got a second trap project going right now, so I can make improvements to my 'hero' and transfer some parts over to the 'stunt'.

Also, on the hinge itself, one of the reference pics I found-- possibly a GB2 trap?-- showed it having four evenly spaced 'cylinders', but I couldn't find a match at that width. Mine had three, which I dislike.

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Bart Thornton posted pics of a trap on Facebook with the four cylinders on its hinge. He told me he used a piano hinge and cut it down to the proper width.

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I ordered this one from McMaster-Carr but I haven't cut into it yet.

Alex
Last edited by Alex Newborn on June 29th, 2020, 10:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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User avatar
By westies14
#4936484
For what it’s worth, the pedal’s hinge had existing holes which the prop makers ignored. It’s actually cut right on a hole, on the right side. They drilled their own holes where they needed them for the pedal mount.
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User avatar
By Alex Newborn
#4936501
Image


I'm looking at more possible parts for mine now, but I don't trust my color-blind eyes to gauge the online photos.

Did you use a blue Hammond box 1591BBU or the 1591ABU?

Alex
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By Kingpin
Moderator
#4936504
Did you use a blue Hammond box 1591BBU or the 1591ABU?
He did, Alex. The auctioned screen-used pedal has a notably blue section where the relay used to sit:

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By Alex Newborn
#4936505
Yes, but which of those two did he use?

I was attempting to find a blue one, and found two serial numbers. One seems very light, one seems darker, but it was two different websites, so with cameras and monitors being what they are, it's hard to be sure.

Alex
User avatar
By westies14
#4936506
Those two are both too small - you want 1591LBU.

If you’re not in a rush, later this summer we’ll have kits with accurate parts available for the GB1 pedal, Including vintage Hammond 1591LBUs (same specs, but subtle differences from a retired injection mold, and slotted screws).

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