For who's interested, this is the LED controller I used:
As you can see by typing "rgb led controller" on Google search, this kind of devices is very popular. They are made in China, relatively cheap (around $ 20), distribuited under various brands, but basically are all the same and can be equally referred to as RGB/RF/LED controllers. I just noticed that some are 12 Amp (like mine) and some 10 Amp, but sincerely I don't know if this difference can affect the outcome. Before the above one, during my attempts I tested this one here, but the strobo/flash mode was too slow for our purposes:
About the LEDs bulb, this kind of lamp is typically used for cars. There are even models more powerful with a very larger number of LEDs (but the size will increase):
Now how do you make the barrel flash ,only from the remote ?Im asking only because of wiring inputs on the unit dont look like a hard wired switch is an option, am I missing something?
Put the +/- wires from the 12v battery into the corresponding power sockets of the LED control unit. Put the + wire from the LEDs lamp into V+ socket and the - wire into one of the three RGB sockets. Set the remote control on flashing mode at maximum pulsing speed and not use it longer. Connect the 3pdt push button switch to one lamp wire. Now push the 3pdt Intensify button and get your barrel stream light effect.
If you are referring to the size of the LED controller, maybe you're right about the smaller one I discarded, but the one I used is way too big to fit inside the gun body, as it measures 5,3 x 2,4 x 1,2 inches (13,5 x 6 x 3 cm). It must be placed in the pack, as well as the sound board, the speakers and the batteries.
julz wrote:I would love to know where you sourced both the grill lamp and the super out of this world led lamp for the gun barrel...!
For the grill vent light I just followed the steps of other members before me, simply cannibalizing a 2AA Krypton pocket flashlight whose reflector has the correct diameter.
So Fargo, jus to bounce some ideas off your head.. Those bulbs are 12v, I have the exoray kit in my existing gun now which can run on between I think 6-12v without issue.
Essentially I could replace exo's barel LEDs with a bulb similar to what you used, run the kit off 9-12v and it should power that bulb just fine without the need for the rgb led controller correct?
Need some help with your build? Check out my pack build/tutorial HERE OR some cool videos of my pack in action HERE and HERE
Looking to mod a Kenner pack for your wife or kids? Check out my Kenner builds for ideas here HERE
I don't have the Exoray's kit so I can't be totally sure of that, but I believe those LEDs are all running between 3 and 5 volts thanks to a built-in voltage regulator, regardless of the power supply.
If so, in order to run the light bulb at 12v you have to exclude the board and drive it by a 12v powered LEDs controller unit. It also means - as I wrote before - that you need a 3pdt push button switch to get the barrel light, the bargraph fire animation and the stream sound effect at the same time, or maybe a 2pdt if the kit features integrated sound board.
I just upgraded the barrel light with this more powerful 18 LEDs bulb:
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS Supply voltage: 12V Light degree: 360° Power rating: 3W Color temperature: 6000k (cool white) LEDs number: 18 LEDs type: G4 SMD 5050 (3 chips each) Brightness: 250 lumen Equivalent: 30w halogen Size: 14,5mm (diameter) x 26mm (lenght without pins, total lenght 36mm)
Actually the diameter of the lower disc near the pins was slightly larger than the above specs, so I had to grind it a little to fit the barrel inside diameter.
Even though - once the bulb has been installed - the most part of the higher brightness is lost as it is irradiated almost entirely from the side LEDs (15 vs 12), this new lamp generates anyway about 20% more light compared to the previous one (1,5w - 15 LEDs - 130 lumen) because of the larger number of chips per LED. Also, the size is a perfect fit for the barrel.
Here is a short video showing the upgraded barrel light along with the stream sound effect (Crix sound board):
To not create false expectations, I want to point out that - of course - the refraction and the saturation effects you see in the video are optical phenomena due to the camera lens, not visible to the naked eye. Anyway I can assure you that live it is very dazzling, impressive and exciting, especially setting the sfx volume very high.
We lack just a swirling breath of wind that ruffles your hair...
Hmmmm... wind from the vent holes... maybe a new challenge?
I'm actually more interested in the whole piece behind the LED bulb.. I see metal, white plastic black plastic... just a whole lotta awesome I tellz ya.
Chris, I fear the exact assembly is not replicable as I used various modified stuff from my spare parts chest...
To be more precise, the LED bulb is glued onto an unidentified metal spacer, shortened and fitted on a brass gas pipe you can't see, shortened as well. This one fits into a pvc fitting for electrical box (the treathed light gray piece), grinded down to the barrel diameter and glued to the next section. This part made from black plastic and chromed metal is assembled with heavily modified pieces from a pocket umbrella. The end part of this is hinged to the jointed aluminium brackets connected to the green lever.
As you can see, I simply glued some nut inside the gun under the hole in the board. The above pic shows the nut just after it was fixed with cyanoacrylate, before being renforced with epoxy. The board is helped to stay in place as the LED bar graph fits perfectly into the rectangular window. To do it I slightly pressed the LEDs assembly in order to leave no space between the LEDs, keeping them close with cyanoacrylate. Then I grinded the upper side of the LEDs assembly so it does not protrude through the window, because it must be covered by a further layer to mimic the original VFD.
I've done many attempts and experiments trying to recreate the look of the Vacuum Fluorescent Displays featured on the screen used Hero wands. Basically I followed the method by Bigi71 (http://www.gbfans.com/community/viewtop ... &start=210) with just a few little variations. I used smoked plastic from a document case instead of totally clear acrylic sheet above the black frame with the clear ribbed plastic from the side of a cd jewelcase. I'm still not happy at all with the result (pictures to come) also because I didn't do a clean job (gluing transparent plastic without fogging is very hard), even though the originals aren't clean as well and even though it is much better than the naked row of LEDs. For now I can live with it, but I think I will replace the whole Jupiter kit as soon as Crix will release his upcoming gun light kit.
Here's a preview of Crix bar graph display, it gonna be very likely a turning point in the making of wand replicas:
Nice! Thanks for that. (I had asked how the bargraph was kept in place). I'll have to try that out - should be a bit of a tough job to get just the right positioning in there.
Due to flash, in the pictures the ribbed central part looks lighter than it actually is. Unlit the color is a dark greenish gray, lit up it is more orange/amber than yellow. Also, the camera lens is blinded by the LEDs light, but to the naked eye the lines remain still visible on the lighted display.
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