#363547
You make me blush! I only hope to find the time and the calm to complete this project I've been chasing for nearly 20 years.
ChapterMasterTu'Shan wrote:Very clean, indeed. Have you given any thought to keeping the wring away from the moving bits once you start packing them in?
Maybe this will be not too much complicated (at least I hope), by shortening the wires unnecessarily too long, fixing and protecting them with zip ties, tape, heat shrink, separators, hooks or something, and overall keeping the room very tidy. I'm doing many attempts and test to avoid mistakes before every progress. My biggest concern now is that @#][]@$£"! single pole pushbutton.
#363563
i just made my "O" face

i have been thinking of a way to make this thing happen in my gun for so long, but alas its just a dream...

your mechanism makes it look so elegant and simple, have you thought of selling them?
#363567
c.fago wrote:You make me blush! I only hope to find the time and the calm to complete this project I've been chasing for nearly 20 years.
ChapterMasterTu'Shan wrote:Very clean, indeed. Have you given any thought to keeping the wring away from the moving bits once you start packing them in?
Maybe this will be not too much complicated (at least I hope), by shortening the wires unnecessarily too long, fixing and protecting them with zip ties, tape, heat shrink, separators, hooks or something, and overall keeping the room very tidy. I'm doing many attempts and test to avoid mistakes before every progress. My biggest concern now is that @#][]@$£"! single pole pushbutton.

Those buttons seem to be the bane of many ghostheads, so if you find a source, please share. :)

One thing I know of from my time with aircraft wiring is to knock down any sharp edges near the wiring. At least that way, if something DOES come loose, there's less chance of chafing and shorting.
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By julz
#363568
I'm really impressed.

From your earlier pictures I couldn't understand how it was going to work...I think I like this idea better than the spring method as there is no chance of breaking the acrylic tube!

Good job...I'm looking forward to trying it myself!
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By julz
#363574
That's right...I remember that thread....

Do you think you could take some more pictures of your set up..I would love the bit of metal that's attached near the side disks and how you secured it, how you secured the bit of metal to the copper lever and lastly how it attaches to the acrylic tube itself...

If thats not asking too much... ;)
#363696
Awesome.... I think im gonna use this method for my current gun.... I dont have the green lever on mine... think ill add it... but space is super tight inside my gun box... so now that i think of it.. i might have to wait until i can figure out a new gun set up or get a new gun all together. But this...all this... is just awesome
#363776
julz wrote:Do you think you could take some more pictures of your set up..I would love the bit of metal that's attached near the side disks and how you secured it, how you secured the bit of metal to the copper lever and lastly how it attaches to the acrylic tube itself...
That's for you:
Image
Image
Image

The above pic shows the barrel extender mechanism disassembled. The light gray part that fits (without glue) the acrylic tube is from a PVC fitting for electrical box. The next section till the first joint is assembled with parts from a pocket umbrella. The piece of metal near the side disk is just an L-shaped bracket from hardware store secured by the side disk itself, as well as you can see the gold L bracket holding the vibrating motor is secured by the front cylinder screw. The piece that connects with the green lever brass rod is made by gluing a locking ring onto an aluminium bar with epoxy. I found this ring dissecting an old broken sewing machine, but you can find it elsewhere like from car model shop (it's used in mechanics) or hardware store (it's identical to the ones used as depth regulator for drill bits). All the rest is aluminium bars, iron wire, button head socket cap screws, washers and self-locking nuts.
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User avatar
By julz
#363796
Thanks buddy! I really appreciate it

I was fairly sure of some of the things ...but I wasn't sure about how you attached the piece of metal to copper rod. So epoxy onto a locking ring it is..

I think this is such a great end result so thumbs up to cyland for the idea and your refinment.
Given how smoothly it pops out...if the lever is pulled down fast enough it looks like it comes out spring loaded anyway...i'm wondering if they did indeed do something similar for the original movie. If you look at the special features there is that bit where you see the acrylic tube slowly coming out like it is being pushed...

food for thought
User avatar
By c.fago
#363828
julz wrote:Given how smoothly it pops out...if the lever is pulled down fast enough it looks like it comes out spring loaded anyway...i'm wondering if they did indeed do something similar for the original movie. If you look at the special features there is that bit where you see the acrylic tube slowly coming out like it is being pushed...
That's just what I think about. In the above video the speed of the movement was limited by the fact I had the left hand busy holding the camera instead of the front handle. I can assure you otherwise the movement is as fast as if it was spring loaded, but with the added ability to pick up the barrel by the same lever and without the risk of stressing too much the acrilyc tube I experimented in my previuos attempts. Also, if I'm not wrong, on the screen used guns the angle traced by the green lever looks as wide as you need to extend the correct lenght of the barrel by this way. A spring loaded system maybe would have required a smaller pushing action.
ChapterMasterTu'Shan wrote:Are you able to fit the wiring through to the tip of the barrel?
Yes I can. The whole piece is hollow for the entire lenght.
User avatar
By julz
#364767
My mind is officially blown! 0.o
User avatar
By julz
#365142
Sorry to be a pest... ;)


But I am following along in your footsteps on this and I'm wondering how you attached the magnets... and where you found such small magnets!

Cheers!
User avatar
By c.fago
#365240
gdonovan wrote:
xtrmn8r17 wrote:Awesome! Rare earth magnets?
None required for what he built, looks like standard home depot cabinet hardware.
Absolutely correct! They are just simple cabinet door magnets from hardware store, extracted from their shell and glued in place with cyanoacrylate. This is the type I used:
Image

Soon I'll post a new video to show how this upgrade works.
#365320
This is exactly what I wanted to try -- thank you for posting this. Your pictures will surely reduce the amount of trial and error.
User avatar
By CPU64
#365395
Looking awesome sir!
I also jumped the band wagon and started a gun for myself. Only difference is I'm using a simple spring release system for the barrel.

One tip I feel I should share. Whenever you can, use solder instead of epoxy when bonding smooth metals. Mainly the green lever arm. And of course some brass instead of aluminum. Epoxy sometimes feels like not holding things together anymore. :3

Great work and I'm looking forward to seeing it finished.
User avatar
By c.fago
#365581
kevinj319 wrote:This is exactly what I wanted to try -- thank you for posting this. Your pictures will surely reduce the amount of trial and error.
I'm really happy to be useful to the members of this great forum after having learned so much from here through the years.
CPU64 wrote:Looking awesome sir!
I also jumped the band wagon and started a gun for myself. Only difference is I'm using a simple spring release system for the barrel.

One tip I feel I should share. Whenever you can, use solder instead of epoxy when bonding smooth metals. Mainly the green lever arm. And of course some brass instead of aluminum. Epoxy sometimes feels like not holding things together anymore. :3

Great work and I'm looking forward to seeing it finished.
I'm also very glad that the maker of my gun body is proud of what I 'm doing with it! Thanks for the suggestions, sadly I'm not yet skilled about welding, above all with metals different from iron. Anyway I'm used to degrease and make the surface rough with coarse sandpaper before gluing. I hope this is enough.

Here is the video showing the barrel extender upgraded with the magnetic lock system in action:


Yesterday I received the sound board from Crix and also the 3pdt push button I wanna use as "intensify" button. But before I have to find some way to make it more screen accurate.
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